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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Down East Maine
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    All warningdash lights illuminate, and gauges stop opperating while driving

    2007 300 C with 97,500 miles. All stock no modifications, owned since new march of 2007

    While driving on smooth road after riding about 25 miles all warning light housed in gauge cluster blinked on, and off some lingering on for a few extra seconds, and spedo, tack, fuel and temperature gauges shut down with their needles swinging to off position. A few seconds all re-energizes going back to normal. This happen five to six times within a distance of six miles while traveling around 50 to 55 mph. The engine, and transmission seemed to be unaffected. for the last ten miles or so the ABS warning lamp was lit. After arriving at destination a total of one hour ride the car sat parked for several hours until our return trip.

    Return trip the ABS light came on a few times briefly for a minuet or so after 25 miles of driving than reset and went out.

    I have replace three axles and one sensor because of magnetic ABS band failing, coming loose, over the last several years. I suspect that the last sensor band has bit the dust, but that would not cause the dash to light up like a Christmas tree.

    A few weeks ago I had a corrosion prevention product (Rust Check) sprayed in all body cavities, engine compartment, and under the side two weeks ago. The product is touted as restoring electrical connections. It is a light oil for the body cavities, and a Vaseline like substance sprayed on to the underside.

    My question is; would this problem be caused by a gauge cluster grounding fault, or a chewed wire, or something else, and where would one begin looking for such a problem? I don't have a scan tool in hand, but can get one in the next day or so.

    Is the gauge cluster powered by a relay in the electrical distribution box, or by the main computer. I don't have a electrical schematic to use. Is there one on line?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
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    Don't rule out speed sensors. I had the identical symptoms. Including no cooling fans. It was the right rear wheel speed sensor.
    Old 426 guy,
    Jim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,413
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    I had the same problem on my ram. It’s a 2010. Sometimes I would start it and it would run great but my whole dash would light up. No speedo, no tach, windows wouldn’t work,nothing. No cel either. But the truck would run great. It ended up being, believe it or not, was corrosion on the driver side window module. The drivers side door window has a rain channel that drips water right onto the module when the weatherstripping gets worn out. Take the panel off and inspect the pins,clean and put electro grease on them and it never happened again. You can see where the water stain is if you look closely. I’m not sure if your car is the same. But it’s a known problem on the 2010 rams
    Good luck


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Down East Maine
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    I decided to check the basics starting with a battery voltage & load test; it showed 12.6v and 350 to 400 CCA's. Battery is ten years old, and will be replaced this morning once I pick up the new one.

    I performed the "ACC to ON" key turn three times for a code check. None came up. I'll get my son's scan tool in a day or two to see what if any codes show up. I suspect now that the battery is removed, that will clear any codes.

    Next there are two ground lugs near the battery, and one on the strut tower under hood, and probably a few more if I look that will be cleaned.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Pomona, CA
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    You might want to take a look at or just replace the Ignition Switch - Very similar problems on my 2007 Magnum R/T - In my case, the problem was it looked like the car had been turned off and back on while driving, but the engine never quit. Seems the switch was wearing out or failing, and some electrical contacts were separating internally. Here is the thread where a few members and I were trying to figure it out - Replacing the switch wasn't that difficult, it was inexpensive (Rock Auto, $18) and completely fixed the problem.05 RT odd cluster flash

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Down East Maine
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    Ignition switch failure is a possibility, as the dash acted like it had a momentary electrical power interruption and went into that "start up" tap-dance illuminating all warning lights & ding ding noise. I'm gong drive the car for a while until dash dose it's thing again, and turn the ignition key to start as mentioned in the hot link above and see if that restores gauge function, or effects the display in some way.

    In the mean time I have in intermittent ESP/BAS and skidding car symbol illuminating occasionally. I wonder if this is a result of all that under carriage rust treatment stuff I had sprayed on a few weeks ago has gummed up a sensor. Hopefully these warnings have triggered a code. later today I'll have a scan tool in hand.

    Baby steps.
    Last edited by WJAJR; 12-24-2020 at 12:01 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Down East Maine
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    One problem diagnosed, ESP/BAS light is on because right front tone ring is floating. This is the last ring to replace, too bad Chrysler saw fit to have to replace the damn axle/ half shaft or whatever. Dumbest engineering ever, one would think this car was designed and built in England.

    So far the last 75 miles have not triggered the dash warning lights and ding-ding show.

    Merry Christmas to all from Downeast Maine.

    Bill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Down East Maine
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    It is now Jan 1, 2021. Have been driving the car as much as possible all short trips, 10 miles into town, do some shopping, and back home. Exciting life ain't it. So far the electrical gremlins have not returned since battery replacement. On the 7th I have an appointment to have the right front Axel replaced to cure the slipping tone ring problem. Once again, dumbest design ever incorporating a non replaceable $2 wheel speed indicating tone ring as part of an expensive axle assembly.

    What happens is a little rust builds up on the exposed iron casting where the tone ring lives, and that portion of the axle is inserted into a recess within the steering knuckle/wheel bearing assembly. As the iron swells with rust the tone ring eventually contacts the stationary surface of the housing which contains the sensor and cheap plastic ring brakes or detaches from the axle allowing the ring to slip or slow down in relation to the axle rotational speed for that one wheel. This is almost as ridiculous as the pink plastic swivel thing under the shifter's face plate in the center console that controls shifter lock out.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    City of Trees
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    Glad you got it fixed. I've found with my 3 Hemi vehicles that when/if the battery CCA's gets below about 500 CCA, all kinds of weird things start happening. As a result, I finally bought a pretty good quality battery/electrical system tester.....Solar BA227. On both of my LX vehicles, to get accurate readings, I have to check them at the battery in the trunk, not at the Forward Control Module under the hood. There's usually a pretty good difference in CCA's.
    06 300CSRT8, Comp cammed, 85mm TB, HP/DS Tuners, 06 Jeep GCO and 05 Magnum RT (5.7's) both modded almost the same, MDS "ON" Lt, Fumoto Drain Valves, BT Catch Cans, SRT8 CAIs, AFE Filters, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC, DS and HP Tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvrs, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, advanced FRI Sidewinder Cams (Jeep 6*/Maggie 10*), 6.1 valvetrains, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK or Arrington 90mm T-Bodies, SOS Ign Coils,TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Down East Maine
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    Update:

    Yesterday I took the 300 in for a tone ring replacement (yes I know it just happens to come with a free axle). I explained to my garage guy that there has not been any flashing of the ABS ESP/BAS warning lights since the day everything lit up, and on our snow covered road I was able to easily test the nanny function of traction control and ABS off and on for the week or so, and both worked as they should.

    I had him visually look over the tone ring, it looked to be intact, and not floating on axle casting, so I said leave it be. He went on to ask me how many false codes he had been chasing in the last week several of which were Chrysler products. I said; "no". A lot. He agreed with me, and MAGNUMAN above that low cranking amps from a weak battery certainly could be the single cause of the dash light show.

    So I said to him, while you got it here, how about an oil change, and that is all we did.

    Thanks for all the tips to help debunk this problem.



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