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  1. #31
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    Sep 2018
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    Springfield, MO
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    I'd have to see to know...also the service manual has all the wiring diagrams to track it down...
    Likes Hemissary liked this post



  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
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    [QUOTE=300300;5161514]The wires are intact, just the black insulate is gone on the top half that protects the wires
    Although in that spot there happens to be at least 1 oem solder that connects a wire.[/QUOTE

    I've never seen a Factory solder joint on any of these platforms. I think you see something else - unless there's been some sort of fix performed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ultimagic5 View Post
    That's normal. During my nag swap I lost every inch of the OEM black wire loom due to heat and age. It turned to dust and fell in my eyes every bump. You can just electrical tape or go to a hardware store and get more 1inch loom for pretty cheap.
    Hardware / Stereo store stuff is garbage; it'll melt in a heartbeat. Order online stuff that is actually designed for vehicle cable looms.

    Quote Originally Posted by 300300 View Post
    What do those wires control though, perhaps a ground wire runs from there to abs pump.no coincidence that my abs is working now after 9 mths. It is plausible since when mechanic clears low voltage code, abs and track worked until he did a turn. Water sloshing back and forth perhaps.
    Coincidence me-thinks. Certainly not a WD40 miracle. Again, do some homework and use(!) the Factory Service Manuals we all have the luxury of downloading - for free.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ultimagic5 View Post
    I'd have to see to know...also the service manual has all the wiring diagrams to track it down...
    Precisely. Even though I've read the FSMs front to back (bathroom reading - long ago), I certainly don't have it committed to memory. I'm inside them frequently though...
    Last edited by Hemissary; 01-15-2020 at 06:01 PM.
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Springfield, MO
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    291
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    [QUOTE=Hemissary;5161532]
    Quote Originally Posted by 300300 View Post
    The wires are intact, just the black insulate is gone on the top half that protects the wires
    Although in that spot there happens to be at least 1 oem solder that connects a wire.[/QUOTE

    I've never seen a Factory solder joint on any of these platforms. I think you see something else - unless there's been some sort of fix performed.



    Hardware / Stereo store stuff is garbage; it'll melt in a heartbeat. Order online stuff that is actually designed for vehicle cable looms.



    Coincidence me-thinks. Certainly not a WD40 miracle. Again, do some homework and use(!) the Factory Service Manuals we all have the luxury of downloading - for free.



    Proecisely. Even though I've read the FSMs front to back, I certainly don't have it committed to memory. I'm inside them frequently though...
    I think he means splice, the OEM black shrink stuff that goops out the ends that the fsm talks about in the wire repair section, I can't remember if it has a name

    Yeah it's cheap as **** but it works for my purpose which was laying on the harness attach point over the top of the trans. I actually checked it the other day and it's still good. I also used super 33+ all over the thing...but still

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    winnipeg
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    So I had some time today, the wire harness I'm talking about splits off behind intake and it goes to fuel injectors, so just a coincidence, wife took car to work this morning and abs and trac was working, after work started car and abs and trac lights are lit up again. The fact it worked for a 10 km drive, does that rule out abs pump?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Pueblo West, Colorado
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    275
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    I discovered yesterday that if I shut my car off as soon as it starts to misfire and immediately turn it back on, it will not misfire when I start it back up. If I leave it run through the misfire, it lasts about 30 seconds or so and smooths back out.

    I'm going to go through the list in the FSM this weekend and do the recommended tests to see if I can figure it out. I'm pretty sure based off of the graphs I posted pics of all the missing is happening on bank 1. I don't have any supporting facts yet, but I'm leaning towards the PCM being bad.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    winnipeg
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    Ok guys, the misfires have truly been fixed. It was either the ground post on passenger strut tower. It was somewhat rusty. Or the top end sea foam cleaner. Not sure which one did the trick.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Pueblo West, Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300300 View Post
    Ok guys, the misfires have truly been fixed. It was either the ground post on passenger strut tower. It was somewhat rusty. Or the top end sea foam cleaner. Not sure which one did the trick.
    Not saying that it's not fixed, but mine went almost 3 weeks without a misfire before it started acting up again.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

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