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| 300C, Magnum RT & Charger RT (5.7L V8) |
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#1
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Almost at a 100k...i don't drag the car but i drive very aggressively.
So...i know i want to stick with a 5.7 in my car. I know i'll be working with a 'new' 5.7 block... First option is a low miles stock bottom end 5.7, moving over my custom PPP cam, jba's shorties, and all the stuff that went with it and adding the biggest heads i can put on there. Second option is a 5.7 based stroker with forged internals and all else mentioned above. I'm not planning on running nitrous nor a blower on either one. I'm beginning to think that I'd be better off just getting the low miles stock 5.7 and just adding heads...and a TC at the same time. Less expensive and will still keep me happy. What do you guys think??
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#3
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if the car is still running strong id leave the bottom end alone and add heads.
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![]() FRI econo heads and sidewinder cam. and all of kind Billet Tech stuff,Tommyz grill, plcman fan mod best E/T so far 12.420 , 110.93 , 1.79 on a stock verter! fastest moddified 5.7 at shindig 08 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/R...-HD_204993.htm < vids from the track 08 06 300c fri'd baby not a cry baby.... ![]() 07 Grand Cherokee limited HEMI ...coming soon |
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#4
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i just want to change it up for my own well being...you know...
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#5
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well if you are going to pull it no matter what... id stroke it.
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![]() FRI econo heads and sidewinder cam. and all of kind Billet Tech stuff,Tommyz grill, plcman fan mod best E/T so far 12.420 , 110.93 , 1.79 on a stock verter! fastest moddified 5.7 at shindig 08 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/R...-HD_204993.htm < vids from the track 08 06 300c fri'd baby not a cry baby.... ![]() 07 Grand Cherokee limited HEMI ...coming soon |
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#8
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very curious to see the outcome.... I have almost 60K on my 5.7 and have thought about what I will do when I reach the 100K mark
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#9
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high compression 5.7!
do it with eagle heads or forged internals imo
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![]() '06 Silver R/T R&T Fully Loaded ->FRI'd with Street/Strip Heads + Scud Camshaft<- CTP Spacers + 09 Eagle Manifold -FRI Custom Stepped LT Headers--Getrag 3.06 LSD--DIABLOsport Predator--Powerbond 25% Underdrive Pulley--ProTorque 2800 -FRI PolyMounts--GSM Cold Air Intake--180Tstat--RTJunkieNOESP--MoparTCM--PEDDERS Touring Kit--Billet Tech Throttle Body Best ET: 12.490 sec @ 113.58 mph +400 DA, 4000 RaceWeight |
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#11
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I'd think there is little wrong with your present bock..
I'd do a compression and bleed down check. 100K may not have much wear on the motor with todays engines, and good maiintenance. If I were to go to a teardown, I'd do forged bottom with coated pistons for longivity. Heads are the least bang for the buck $$/HP and will only do as well as the cam you run. Rather than a unknown low miles 5.7, consider a new rotating assembly in your present block. If you really want those big knarly heads, stroke it and make good use of their ability to flow. Go for the gusto!
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Adaptive Craving Control-by Hal9000 modification strictly prohibited FI IV.5, , HHP260. Inertia heads, Gibson shorties, Hi flow cats, Volant cat backs, Motorad 4127, BT Catch Can, DS tuner, Max duty Rad., Derale 32000BTU Tranny cooler with fan control, duel oil coolers, P/S cooler, SLP underdrive pulley, Pedders Track II, Hodgkiss sways, BWoody sway links, Custom brakes by TCE. |
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#12
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do a slightly stroked, slight overbore 5.7. get some premium pistons and suck some weight out of the rotating assembly. keep the cam you got, and open the heads up a bit. bump the CR up to 11:1... feed it 93 and let 'er rip!
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2006 Charger R/T - Black | Road and Track |Inertia Motorsports 392 Stroker | Electronics Convenience Group | Sunroof | AirHammer | CMR | Precision Industries 3500 Stall Converter | Billy Boat Exhaust | Snow Tires on Police Steelies
What we do in life, Echos in eternity - Gladiator Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again - Franklin P. Jones Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. - Albert Einstein |
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#13
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interesting stuff here guys...bump
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#14
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Use your 100,000 mile block. My understanding is that the more miles on a motor the stronger the metal gets, something to do with heat cycling. I took my motor apart at 150,000 miles for a Sidewinder cam install. As far as we could tell, it's not broken in yet!
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Rockinsrt8's CocoBolo Pistol Grip Shifter, FRI Sidewinder cam, Dynatec Headers , Borla125 Catback, Air Hammer, Predator Tuner, Complete Pedders bushings ,Police Pack Oil Cooler, SRT 8 Struts and Nivo's ,Hotchkis sway bars,100 hp shot Nitrous Express, M/T DR's , Member of the over 170,000 mile club |
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#15
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I dont see any point in forging the rotating assembly and spending all that money if you never plan to boost it or spray it. If you think that might change down the road, well, then OK.... forge it. But why spend all that money on something thats never going to see that kind of power?
I say save yourself some money, and do heads, cam, torque converter and a solid tune. As far as the bottom end goes.... I think it's worth having your existing shortblock checked out as others have suggested. If absolutely necessary, then and oly then would I consider a 5.7 shortblock replacement. To me, your dilemma should be focused solely around "Do I want to spend money and get nuts, or save a bit and still be quite happy with the outcome." -Pat
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![]() 2007 Dodge Charger Sublime Daytona #268 of 1500 I don't burn rubber... I make it scream for mercy!
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