Well, lately a number of us racing the cars in the Northeast have experienced failing wheel studs; stripped, spinning, snapping.
The wheel studs at the dealership are $16-$17.50 usd. :doh:
**edit - if you want to skip to the good stuff - the solution is here: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1933281&postcount=37
as well as some nicely written posted results here: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1947712#post1947712
The Wheel studs are 14mm x 1.50.
The overall length is 57mm.
5mm is the depth of the head
10mm is the length of the splined portion resident in the wheel assembly
32mm is the length of the threaded portion
21mm wide is the head
15mm wide is the splined portion (knurl)
There are 34 splines
So...the Manual well instruct one way. Here's is what I would do:
1. jack car up
2. place jackstand in place for safety
3. remove wheel
4. remove the two 18mm bolts affixing the caliper to the knuckle
5. pull the brake rotor off the studs (may be stuck - easiest to remove with parking brake ON) This pull tension on the outer hub and creates space for the rotor to pull off the wheel assembly.
6. put donor lug nut on stud to be removed
7. lightly tap the nut/stud to free the spline/knurled portion of the wheel stud from the wheel assembly
8. remove lug nut
9. take parking brake off and put the car in NEUTRAL
10. Spin wheel stud for removal to 6 o'clock (closest to ground).
11. push the stud out at an angle, carefully and slowly spinning hub left and/or right till you can JUST barely get it out.
12. put NEW stud in the same way...finesse it..it WILL go
13. Put 4 mag washers on the threaded portion and use a lug nut to draw the new stud into place
14. remove lug nut
15. Apply ANTI seize to studs
16. put rotor back on
16. reassemble caliper to knuckle. It may be necessary to open brake bleed line (15mm bolt on rears) in order to compress the piston and get onto the rotor. Be sure to close the bleed light immediately without getting air into the brakelines.
17. reinstall wheel to 110# tq.
Voila. Not hard at all...and likely not necessary unless you are spinning wheels off and on frequently.
So - I'd like to do 10 of these, 5 for each rear wheel but when they SHOULD cost $5....I'm now on a mission. Just took the specs to begin the hunt....i'll repost/edit when I find the suitable replacement.
The wheel studs at the dealership are $16-$17.50 usd. :doh:
**edit - if you want to skip to the good stuff - the solution is here: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1933281&postcount=37
as well as some nicely written posted results here: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1947712#post1947712
The Wheel studs are 14mm x 1.50.
The overall length is 57mm.
5mm is the depth of the head
10mm is the length of the splined portion resident in the wheel assembly
32mm is the length of the threaded portion
21mm wide is the head
15mm wide is the splined portion (knurl)
There are 34 splines
So...the Manual well instruct one way. Here's is what I would do:
1. jack car up
2. place jackstand in place for safety
3. remove wheel
4. remove the two 18mm bolts affixing the caliper to the knuckle
5. pull the brake rotor off the studs (may be stuck - easiest to remove with parking brake ON) This pull tension on the outer hub and creates space for the rotor to pull off the wheel assembly.
6. put donor lug nut on stud to be removed
7. lightly tap the nut/stud to free the spline/knurled portion of the wheel stud from the wheel assembly
8. remove lug nut
9. take parking brake off and put the car in NEUTRAL
10. Spin wheel stud for removal to 6 o'clock (closest to ground).
11. push the stud out at an angle, carefully and slowly spinning hub left and/or right till you can JUST barely get it out.
12. put NEW stud in the same way...finesse it..it WILL go
13. Put 4 mag washers on the threaded portion and use a lug nut to draw the new stud into place
14. remove lug nut
15. Apply ANTI seize to studs
16. put rotor back on
16. reassemble caliper to knuckle. It may be necessary to open brake bleed line (15mm bolt on rears) in order to compress the piston and get onto the rotor. Be sure to close the bleed light immediately without getting air into the brakelines.
17. reinstall wheel to 110# tq.
Voila. Not hard at all...and likely not necessary unless you are spinning wheels off and on frequently.
So - I'd like to do 10 of these, 5 for each rear wheel but when they SHOULD cost $5....I'm now on a mission. Just took the specs to begin the hunt....i'll repost/edit when I find the suitable replacement.