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LXForums Message Board | Dodge Charger | Dodge Magnum | Chrysler 300 | Dodge Challenger | LXForums Message Board |
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#1
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Hi-performance LED Replacements
Finally got the Magnum back from the bodyshop to repair the right-rear quarter (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=109146), now I need to repaint the new LED tail lights to my liking.
Prior to painting however, I installed some high performance LED bulbs. I had been using coated (stealth) incandescent bulbs, the idea bing that when off there is no orange/yellow reflection visible. However I was not happy with the light output as direct result of that coating. I did some investigation into LED bulbs to replace the incandescent signal, marked, and reverse bulbs. After ordering and testing various versions, I finally settled on this company's products: http://superbrightleds.com/ For the signal bulb I chose 3157-A25 which houses 25(!) LED's: ![]() ![]() Here you can see some of the LED's point towards the bulb's base so that light is properly reflected off the tail light's reflector as well as straight out towards the rear: ![]() For the reverse bulb, this was a little more difficult. LED's only recently made some technical breakthroughs that allow extreme brightness (measured in Lumens) which could be self-contained and still have adequate heat-sinking properties. I chose the 3156-WLX3. This assembly utilizes a 3 watt Luxeon I Lambertian (emits light in all directions equally - in a radius up to 200 degrees) emitter which puts out a whopping 80 lumens. The constant-current electronics and heatsink are all built right into the base of the bulb assembly. This particular unit emanates cool white light (as opposed to warm-white -yellowish/white like incandescent bulbs) for a hi-tech look: ![]() ![]() Because the original reverse bulb utilizes a significantly smaller style of base compared to the Luxeon-based 3157 I chose, modifications were in order. I used a reamer to enlarge the mounting base in the reverse receptacle of both tail lights "just" large enough so that the heat-sink portion of the bulb assembly would enter the reflector. ![]() ![]() I then used rubber tape (like electrical tape - but actually thick rubber) to build up the thickness of the bulb's base so that it would jam against the backside of the reflector: ![]() I then slid the bulbs into position, and glued them in place using GOOP (an adhesive like silicone - but waaay stronger). I set them aside to dry and concentrated on the wiring. LED's utilize significantly less current for the same light output when compared to incandescents. This can be a problem on modern computer-controlled vehicles which sense the load present when traditional bulbs are activated. The configuration of the signal light's circuitry is such that when a bulb burns out, that particular side of the vehicle will flash at 3-4 times the normal speed...this is to inform the driver that indeed a bulb has burned out. Well, with the 25 LED turn signal bulbs installed this is precisely what happens. The flasher logic detects a less than normal load and initiates a quicker flash-rate. The easiest way to get around this is to install a dummy load across the LED bulbs inputs, essentially fooling the electronics into believing there is a regular incandescent bulb present. I was lazy and bought 6ohm/50watt load resistors as well from Superbright, as opposed to my normal electronics supply houses (for giggles here are some suppliers I acquire parts from regularly as a part of my fulltime employment:http://www.digikey.com/ http://www.futureelectronics.com/home.asp http://www.newark.com/ http://www.tycoelectronics.com/components/). You will need a total of four: ![]() For those little piddly marker bulbs I chose WLED-WHP6. At 22 lumens and 360 degree light output, they produce more light than the 194's they replace. It is noteworthy just how often the OEM 194's fail due to rather delicate filaments. ![]() Finally, in these shots you can see how I mounted the load resistors (I drilled small holes and used small sheet metal screws). You can also see how the resistor is electrically attached in parallel to the signal bulb. One side is soldered to the red lead, the other is soldered to the common ground. On the right reverse LED bulb you can see I have already installed some glue-lined heatshrink (when shrunk with a heat gun, the internal adhesive secures and seals the joint) to electrically isolate the leads on the (now) protruding 3157's LED base: Here is the end-results, some serious back-up lights, and signal lights that put as much (if not more) lightthan the OEM incandescents: ![]() The cool thing about LED's is when you step on the brakes, they reach full light potential in less than 40usec, whereas incandescents can take up to 1/2sec. They also last significantly(!) longer than incandescents. I have wired my reverse LED's so that when someone lets me into traffic I can flash them a couple of times (by way of a momentary-on switch up front) to say thankyou!
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simonLast edited by Hemissary; 06-24-2008 at 01:46 AM. |
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#2
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...and here is a shot of the load resistor mount on the back of the front headlight assembly. Remember, one side of the load resistor is soldered (or you can elect to use the quick-connects supplied) to the red lead coming out of the signal receptacle, and the other lead is soldered to the black (GND) lead.
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simonLast edited by Hemissary; 06-22-2008 at 06:46 PM. |
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#3
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Ah, nice, but more to come. The truly bright ones will make your digital camera freak out and overload the sensor.
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![]() ![]() ![]() 11.852 @ 117.36 N/A|SRT8 Magnum|CNC'd heads|mild cam|Protorque TC|CAI|Mopar TCM|Magnaflow mids|DSS Axles | DRs 2007 Super Bee SRT8 427/1000|All Stock w/Stock Motor except for Mopar CAI|Corsa Cat back|Diablo Tune|DRs|12.217 @ 117.74 N/A
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#4
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Sweet nice write up, I have been running LED turns and Parking lights for a while. I am up for some new ones as one of mine has a bit of a fitment issue in the socket
Very cool ! -R |
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#5
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Thanks guys, I appreciate it; Second post updated to show front headlight assembly mods.
Your right RobAGD, I had to switch to a digital camera with a lower quality(!) CCD in order to get a decent shot with the LED's powered up. Apologies for the blurriness as a result...
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simonLast edited by Hemissary; 06-24-2008 at 01:48 AM. |
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#8
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Looks great, love the snappy little jazz tune!
Question how is the reverse light output? It looks great in the housing but is it actually improved? AC
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![]() 'When I was arrested I was dressed in black' _____________________________________ Mods: Predator 93 CAI, Air Hammer, Stainless Works Long Tubes, JBA Catback, SRT8 suspension, Mopar Sways, REM Strut tower bar and Bumpsteer, Custom Grill, Daytona Chin and 20s, CSRT8 Diffuser, Kicker Sub, LED Eyebrows, 6000K HIDs, shaved letters, Old skool R/Ts, Hood Struts, 300C Handles & lower moldings, Two toned tails, BT Oil Catch, Husky Liners, and Sirius Stilleto. |
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#9
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Good question, I have not backed into my parking spot yet at night. Based on what I see though there is more light present. The fly in the ointment is that the newest style of aftermarket LED tail lights I got, the reflector is a different shape compared to the previous pair. It appears to me that these will reflect more light anyways.
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simon |
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#11
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Nice
Any reason you chose not to use these for the reverse lights instead? 120 lumens vs 80, and less money, too...http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...315x-x18-T.htm |