Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    4,323
    Post Thanks / Like

    Front Rotor and pad change with pics.

    This is a very simple procedure. Common tools are used (breaker bar maybe the exception).
    Saved an easy $100+ doing it myself.


    Tools are
    sockets/wrench with breaker bar
    18mm for the caliper bracketbolts
    13mm for the caliper guide pin bolts.
    I cant remember the sensor brackert but it was SAE
    Torque wrench
    8" C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in to make room for the new pads
    I used a needle nose pliers for the rotor retaining clips
    When I got the pads they gave me caliper pin grease and anti-squeak compound

    Time: Took me an hour to do, I had the luxury of a lift and air compressor tools

    Cost:
    Rotors $150
    Pads $40
    Stall time: $8

    Safety notes:

    Make sure the car is supported!!!!!

    DO NOT push the brake pedal when the caliper is off the rotor. You may push the caliper piston
    past the interal O-ring seal. Then you will have to rebuilt the caliper.

    Pump the breakes to seat the pads after re-assembly

    When driving the first time the brakes will not have full braking capibility. The anti-rust coating will
    wear off after a short distance.

    Also to note: if you have added brake fluid, you will need to remove some. When you reset the caliper piston,
    you will be pushing fluid back into the resivour.

    As we start with the tire off.


    Take the bottom caliper guide pin bolts off and loosen the top one abit. swing the rotor up to expose the pads.
    I had to use a 2X4 and a hammer to swing the caliper up.


    Support the caliper out of the way. I used a wire that I found. This takes the pressure off of the brake lines.


    To make it easier to get to the top caliper mounting bolt, remove the sensor bracket.
    First pop off the sensor wire from the holder, then take off the bolt. I threaded it back in so that I wouldnt loose it.


    There she be with the caliper bracket and rotor off. To get the rotor off the first time, you have to take off the
    2 assembly clips as seen in the first pic. You can discard them, they are used during maufactoring. Now is the point
    where you either turn the rotors or replace the rotors all together like I had to do.


    Here is the caliper bracket back on and showing the lube on the caliper guide pins. A common step that gets forgotten.
    Use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in a bit.
    Put in the new pads apply the anti-squeak compound on the caliper area that touches the pads and reverse to assemble.
    Dont forget about the sensor bracket.

    The caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 70ft# and the caliper guide pin bolts are 44ft#



    Here are a few FYI shots

    The stud mounting method on the hub


    Here shows the spring rubber orientation. This is taken on the passenger side.
    Last edited by JamminWagon; 09-19-2008 at 12:17 PM.
    The Vehicle Formally Known as JamminWagon
    Thanks Spyder, fnkychkn thanked for this post
    Likes Spyder liked this post



  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tuscaloosa,AL
    Posts
    38
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good job on the pictures. Very helpful. Thank You

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    It rubs the lotion on it's skin, or else it gets the hose again!
    Posts
    6,082
    Post Thanks / Like
    This couldn't have come at a better time, I just bought new Drilled rotors.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    696
    Post Thanks / Like
    Very nice! Great job and much appreciated. What was the mileage and how much pad was left?

    I'm at 65,000 mi and the pads still look good. The rotors...not so much. The constant warping and un-warping is about to get the best of me. If they get really hot, they got back to shape are smooth as glass. Drive in traffic once, and they shake again. Depending on conditions, they really do warp and un-warp. I'm not going back OEM, at least not for rotors.
    Displaced Hokie
    2005 Dodge Magnum R/T

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    Stillen.com is offering FREE pads with a purchase of sport rotors... if you are needing to do brakes, there is nothing like getting free pads!! I just ordered mine... talk to Paige in the American Muscle department...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Long Island NY
    Posts
    86
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just did mine with drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from R1 concepts in less then 1 hour in my driveway. Great product.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    North Shore
    Posts
    315
    Post Thanks / Like

    Question for Installers

    First, thanks for posting this, great job.
    I'll be doing this when the spring thaw comes (again!).

    Did anyone need to remove fluid when the caliper got pushed in?

    Did anyone change fluid? How?

    Thanks! You guys are my auto shop teachers!
    why,yes.yes it does.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    It rubs the lotion on it's skin, or else it gets the hose again!
    Posts
    6,082
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MagnumFierce View Post
    First, thanks for posting this, great job.
    I'll be doing this when the spring thaw comes (again!).

    Did anyone need to remove fluid when the caliper got pushed in?

    Did anyone change fluid? How?

    Thanks! You guys are my auto shop teachers!
    I'm told there's no need to, just carefully pry the calipers open to slide them off the rotors and don't touch the brake pedal till reassembled or the pistons will pop out.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    4,323
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Displaced Hokie View Post
    Very nice! Great job and much appreciated. What was the mileage and how much pad was left?

    I'm at 65,000 mi and the pads still look good. The rotors...not so much. The constant warping and un-warping is about to get the best of me. If they get really hot, they got back to shape are smooth as glass. Drive in traffic once, and they shake again. Depending on conditions, they really do warp and un-warp. I'm not going back OEM, at least not for rotors.
    Mileage was about 42K and there was well over 1/4" left on the pads before the squealer tab would hit the rotors. I did alot of trips to Estes Park, CO to visit a guy I supervise in a health center and it was through the rocky mountains. had tobrake about 30 miles on the way down. Thats what killed them as fast as they died. Mine were the reverse, the hotter they got, the worst it got.


    Quote Originally Posted by MagnumFierce View Post
    First, thanks for posting this, great job.
    I'll be doing this when the spring thaw comes (again!).

    Did anyone need to remove fluid when the caliper got pushed in?

    Did anyone change fluid? How?

    Thanks! You guys are my auto shop teachers!
    The only time you need to take out any fluid is IF you added any brake fluid between changes. I use the brake fliud as a guage to the status of the pads. In theory, if you dont have a leak, when you push the pistons back in with new pads it will go back to the full line like when the car was new. After making a mess on my first brake job when I keep adding fluid to the system to keep it on the full line, I just make sure that it never goes dry.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    peoria,az
    Posts
    418
    Post Thanks / Like
    My car only has 16000 and the brakes squeked all the time. But the pads were still good. I switched over to r1concepts drilled and slotted rotors and now nothing. They are great. Also if you don't remove the caliper or add fluid there is no need to bleed the breaks.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    14,718
    Post Thanks / Like
    I missed this the first time around, and I'm glad to see it now! Great write-up!

    - Click above for my HEMI Registry page -

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Down South
    Posts
    1,384
    Post Thanks / Like

    R1

    Quote Originally Posted by army91b View Post
    My car only has 16000 and the brakes squeked all the time. But the pads were still good. I switched over to r1concepts drilled and slotted rotors and now nothing. They are great. Also if you don't remove the caliper or add fluid there is no need to bleed the breaks.
    Just bought my R1 Premium Rotors with PosiQuiet pads!!! I can't wait until they get here!!

    SyNyStR

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    It rubs the lotion on it's skin, or else it gets the hose again!
    Posts
    6,082
    Post Thanks / Like
    I got my R1 rotors on, thanks to ezrider95! me likey!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Home of The Buckeyes
    Posts
    2,809
    Post Thanks / Like
    Can the picks be put back up?
    Got Faith? Philippians 4: 6&7
    Like my company on Facebook...please
    https://www.facebook.com/TheSimmondsGroup
    2012 Jeep GC Overland Summit. Yeah, it's got a Hemi. No mods...yet

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    14,718
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeRT View Post
    Can the picks be put back up?
    Send him a PM - I remember last week he said he was shuffling hosts or something, and to let him know which ones weren't working. I know he'd appreciate it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •