so i think i am going to relocate the iat sensor on my intake track, i will be doing this when i install the stock srt intake i just bought but i am curious on how to plug the old hole without it look like crap. any ideas on what to use to plug the hole? i have a stock r/t intake now but ill be installing my srt intake soon. i am going to be installing the sensor in a new location right on the box as it goes into the tube, or on the tube right after the clamp, i have fully decided but ill take pics for sure to show you guys, i think this is why the airhammer intake adds so much claimed HP because of this sensor relocation.
2006 BB 300 SRT8.,LMI CAI,BT catch can, dc sport top carbon steel strut tower bar, challanger motor mounts,alpine touch screen,Suit case removed with Custom magnaflow resonators with 4 inch tips,Blue Tops,93 CAI tune, 09 RT axles,17x9 cobras with MT drag radials, nitrous outlet plate,nitrous outlet solenoids,Nano, on a 75 shot i went 12.1 at 117 with a 1.91 60ft on slicks and the old zex box... cant wait to see what i do now!
98 GMC suburban,04 Trailblazer,03 Ford Excursion
2006 MSRT-8 ...GONE....
Any holes can be filled by figuring out what size pipe plug will fit. Drill correct dia hole, run a NPT tap into hole to make threads, then install correct size plug. Of course do this off the car and make sure inside of tube is clean before reassembly. A little teflon tape or paste on the threads.
FRI Sidewinder cam, Dynatec LT Headers , BorlaCatback , 93 octane dyno tune, 333rwhp/350 ft lbs, Police Pack Oil Cooler, SRT 8 Struts and Nivo's ,Hotchkis sway bars,B Woody end links, 310,000 miles, 275/40/20 Ventus ST's , -- 05 QC4X4 Hemi Ram and 2001 Arctic Cat 500 ATV Hemi, yup, it's a Hemi too. Never Trust a Fart
i remember seeing,that one of the forum members dyno tested the relocation of this sensor...i think it made a little more tq...??? here is what i did when i installed my nitrous kit...
went to home depot of course,and got a plastic threaded plug...they have hundered's of them in different sizes and painted it,just the outside part...
as for the sensor,took of the wire loom and basicly cut it and made it longer with connector and elec tape...drilled the hole next to the filter,in a open spot and that's it here are some pic's...
mod's:zex kit,k&n cai,h-flow cat's (495rwhp 572rwtq)
*Optional IAT Sensor $30.00*
· For that extra bit of performance we can move the (Intake Air Sensor) IAT
to the bottom side of the large end of the intake. Includes the extender harness.
(provides for more accurate and stable temperature reading for the computer.
06 Inferno Red Magnum SRT8
Pretty stuff: Blinker mod, Silverstars, Auto Headlight, ERF Backups, 22Elite console w/Jina's stitching
Go-fast stuff: Arrington 426 w/607 cam and FRI Heads by BFNY Performance, Tuned by HemiTuner, Kooks, Protorque 2800, Airhammer, 180 t-stat, Cool-It, B&B Catback
11.42@117 - 1.579 60' juiced
i was under the impression the air hammer relocates the IAT for denser air readings, thus creating more power.
anyone who relocate thier sensor think it was worth it? where di you relocate yours too?
Just go buy a new IAT sensor and plug it into the new location. They don't cost that much. Leave the original where it is and you can do a little experimenting, and let us all know what, if any, difference it makes.
The stealership wants $47 for them. There's a prior post on this.
In the performance equation, it's a really small boost and only at initial WOT. Then the O2 sesors take over.
I Hate closed programming!
With extended wires, you could mount it at the grill. But the value into making a change is small and inconsequential.
Unlike the god old days, where a carb/ intake/ header, change made a huge dofference, these cars are pretty close to what you'll get, without head and cam changes.
Best power for $ may be "juiceing" the motor. A 75 shot will do wonders, but it's pretty close to the best HP/cost ratio at stock.
Needless to say, I keep modding mine, cause it's fun!
Blasin Bobs and a K#N drop in would have ended up the same as the $1K or more difference.
I'll keep playing cause it's more than a car. It's a hobby.
My Maggie's the first car I've owned in the last 20years that's been a blast to drive and works on a daily basis.
Adaptive Craving Control-by Hal9000 modification strictly prohibited
FI IV.5, Solo cat backs, 180 thermo, Catch Can, DS tuner, 383 Stroker/SRT heads,headers and mids,, Tranny cooler with fan control, built tranny/flex plate/4K conv,09 Chally rear with Quaife posi. Pedders Track II, coil overs, Hodgkiss sways, BWoody links, 20" Jacks N Five with Nitto Invo's, Custom brakes by TCE. Bling by BT.
Just a grocery getter!
well i did it, ill have pics up shortly. i relocated the IAT to the inner portion of the tube right before the accordian piece.
to comment, the car def feels smoother and more powerfull uptop. i dont know if it were the airbox or relocating the iat. but it was def worth the 50 bux for the srt box and the free 20 min relocating job i did, i made it look real nice and neat, oem like quality. ill let the pics show it when i get them up.
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yeah man i appriciate eveything. i jut gotta get that CCV hose from a early daytona and it will be perfect.