I've got an oil leak from the oil pan gasket. Probably the passenger right front, and maybe the passenger right rear. I reused the gasket, and I used rtv
in the corners. This is with a Milidon pan. And it only leaks when running. Probably a drip every 5 seconds.
Has anyone had a problem reusing the factory gasket? Is this a gasket problem or an rtv problem?
Maybe it's an even torque problem, did you use a torque wrench or the gutentite method?
why would you take a chance and cut corners by reusing a gasket? I thought gutentite or goodentight was the german word for virgin?
Is this on a new block?.. I don't remember what side it's on but, truck blocks have a dipstich hole that some people forget to put a plug in
Is not the flange on those pan rolled / stamped...as in way less support for the OEM gasket?
----440ci + aluminum block-----viper venom red---------short runner valve intake----410mm BAER 6S Eradi-Speed / Full Road Course Suspension Systems----
-------------------Custom One-offs; Grille Work, Chin Spoiler, Hood, Headlights, Side View mirrors, Rear Spoiler, Rear Hatch, Rear Diffuser, True CAI System, SRV Control System--------------
Just pulled it out. Is this about the right amount of rtv?
Rolled steel. So I'm sure getting everything right is much more critical.
If you are using the OEM combined windage tray / gasket, you will need to apply RTV to both sides. The problem is the gasket configuration of the OEM windage tray relies heavily on the relatively thick cast flange of the OEM aluminum oil pan to apply sufficient pressure across the entire surface. No way the rolled / stamped flange on the Miloden unit will achieve the same reasults. As far as RTV bead thickness; at least 1/8" thick, and continuous (no breaks) and go around the inner side of the bolt holes.
Before you do this you better carefully check the pan's flange for straightness. It's very likely there is evidence (oil) on the face of the flange (either top or bottom or both where it was leaking out. If the bolts were over-tightened that hold the pan on, the flange is going to be very distorted. Use a ballpeen hammer, a metal ruler (to check for flatness) and a flat surface to coach the flange back straight. Then...do not overtighten when re-assembling!
I was just planning on putting rtv in the junction corners like the service manual says. Is that not how you do it?
The truck pans are stamped steel; is there a different set of directions in a truck service manual?
Thanks for the help
If it was the OEM cast aluminum pan - yes. Can't comment on the truck pan - or the gasket type it uses. My spidey-sense tells me the gasket on the truck pan gasket is likely something more appropriate for a stamped steel pan.
This is the truck gasket that I'm using...
Is there any indication of where the gasket was leaking? I have never seen one leak no matter what it was in.
9515 Detroit Rd,Cleveland Ohio 44102
440-787-7235 8am- 5pm
Clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly, apply a 1/8" bead of RTV both sides, and do not over-tighten the pan bolts.
I realize Eric that the windage tray / gasket has standoffs built in at every bolt hole that prevent crushing. They are slightly narrower than the rubber laminated gasket material. As the pan gets tightened down it still distorts (bows), and the ribbing in the rubber surface is just not good enough to seal. If it was new, likely...
Figured it out.
It was leaking from the passenger front right corner. If you look closely, the gasket 'rib' cuts inward towards that corner. Well, the Milodon pan doesn't support that portion of the gasket! So I laid a bead of RTV in the area that it does support, starting one bolt away in each direction. Should solve the problem. I'll know tomorrow.
Thanks for the help fellas. I went ahead and bought a new gasket and the Mopar brand RTV. If this doesn't work, I'll order the milodon one.