Got a question when I'm at the track my take off feels like a turd in the sand, but when I get going Im gone. I have the cam/head work, 6.1 gears, ported 6.1 intake manifold,etc etc. Im sure if I get a stall it would help this since I am still using my stock one. My question is will a 3600 work or should I find a lower one ?
If you are serious about cutting down your 60' times I would contact Builder Bill and/or Robsrt on the forums. These guys can have you a verter built for YOUR set-up/torque curve. Good luck
PWR 426, Paramount Tranny/4000 dominator, PWR cam 247/252 115+2LSA, Apache Heads,
Modern Muscle ported intake/90mm TB, Kooks LT headers, Billy Boat exhaust. LMI Intake
Installed with love by AMP!!!
It depends on the specs of the engine setup. Most dont realise or dont understand (talking those wanting most performance) that convertor stall should not be chosen based on preference or wow factor but mated to come in at the most optimal point of power. A 3600rpm stall is pretty big and havent seen many N/A cars with cams big enough requiring such a large stall with head and manifold work. If you have a tuner that knows his stuff get him to run the car up with the tyres you run at the track and datalog a few runs. Where it starts tipping in to power/torque, that's about the rpm you want the stall speed to be.
426 WHIPPLE 3.4L BLOWN 300C SRT8
^ Jim is right on if you are serious about your racing. I am thoroughly impressed with my FTI converter (from robsrt), and I hear good news about Bill Dominators as well.
To answer your question, 3600 is not too much.
Edit...as long as we are talking current generation converters. There are still some converters out there that are pretty "loose" for a daily driver.
Last edited by novawagonmaster; 08-27-2011 at 10:32 AM.
10.29@132 N/A 468 (high comp alum block) in 2005 Magnum R/T
10.84@126 N/A 5.7 (high comp old 5.7) in 2010 Challenger R/T
11.71@113 N/A 5.7 (stock Eagle) in 2010 Challenger R/T
I would love to go the Robsrt route or builder bill just don't quite have the change to pay out that much yet. I bought some Mickey Thompson e/t street drags on 17x9 rims and the car was just glued to the ground ?
So to re iterate the 3600 will be ok ? I don't want to drop more money for no good outcome.
Add one more thing. I need to get out of the hole faster so I will be spraying on this stall.
Like the man said everything has to match. I have a 3200 stall FTI, it was custom built for not only what I have now but they took in consideration what i am going to do. Cam and heads. The biggest factor is where does the cam come in. If the cam comes in at 2800 than a 3000 in right. If the cam comes in at 3200 than you would want a 3400 or so. You want to be as close as possible to where your cam starts making power. To early and its still a Dog to late and you are not getting full use of the cam. Give all your specs. to the company that is going to build you converter for the best results. They are the experts not me, Iam only going on past experance with other cars. Maybe these are differant. I would not get an off the shelf converter. Tim
I'm pretty certain you can get the converter restalled once for no charge. (shipping and labor not included). I know FTI does this.
08 HO Daytona #1254 (Traded off 11/04/12)
Inertia cam 112LSA/214/222, port matched 5.7 Inertia performance heads , 6.1 timing chain tensioner w/ Crower timing set /advanced 2*, 6.1 intake manifold and injectors, Magnaflo 6.1 high flow cats/mids and catback exhaust, FTI 3200 stall 'verter, SLP underdrive pulley, Innovate LC-1, Johan toon, 180* t-stat, BT t-stat housing, Silver box shift kit, BT EGR block off, 87MM TB, and BT catch can.
08 B5 Super Bee #837 Sold , 14 Challenger SRT Core, White. Sold
15 Challenger SRT, Jazz blue/Sepia. (Ordered, 11/17/14 -Delivered 1/9/15)
Yes a 3600 convertor will work, it will work on a stock engine but to get the most out of your convertor and match it perfectly to the cars setup, only logging results and dyno time will answer this question.
If the power comes in at 2800 and your running a 3600 convertor you have lost 800rpm and come into "powerband" to late. May mean less than a 10th imrovement maybe less but you want everything you can get. But thats how was taught and picked up along the way.
Well nitrous will change where your verter flashes. Instead of throwing a "off the shelf" verter, I would save my coin and do it right the first time. You don't want to be yanking verters out as that can get costy quick
I run a 3600 FTI convertor and love it, had the same issue, pretty lame on the bottom end with my cam in (well not worse than stock but it really wakes up in the upper 3,000 range), now with the 3600 stall she'll boil the tires from a stand still. I use this car as my DD and it's been on 6+ 400 mile trips with no issues and I use it to bring my kid to day care everyday and the convertor feels great. Slightly looser than stock but nothing crazy.
If your spraying the stall should be built for it (it changes your power band completely), talk to Rob and he can set you up with a FTI unit and you can talk directly to Greg at FTI and hell build exactly what you need.
Last edited by mcshocks; 08-27-2011 at 12:04 PM.
2006 Charger R/T NA 1/4 mile PB: 11.741 @ 115.91 mph on a 1.606 60'1998 C5 corvette coupe NA 1/4 mile PB: 11.778 @ 118.38mph on a 1.763 60' nitrous times to come
BUT if he wants to get a convertor that is spot on for his setup (I can see the cam he has and work done, not sure on "little bit of head work" though (what that means) and this is on a stock 5.7 bottom end I assume. Tyre size, diff ratio this all plays a part too.
Going by the graph I have shown below, similar (guess) to what I think the OP has, a 3100-3300 rpm convertor I believe would be ideal for the car running on this graph. 3600rpm convertor would be too high. BUT AGAIN I am not saying a 3600 stall isnt right for his car I am saying if he wants the correct one perfectly suited to his combo then needs to speak with Bill, run up on dyno, datalog etc etc and match it that way.
This is what the OP needs to do and is the correct answer to his original question. Now unless someone has the exact setup and has chosen the stall speed based on power table to make optimum power/speed, or you know based on all the facts you cannot say one way or another that a 3600 stall speed is right for him.
If he just wants a convertor and doesn't mind if its matched or not, go for it. Will it hurt the car or affect it in any way, no it shouldn't. Slipping/flashing to a higher stall will certainly sound tougher than a small stall speed and wow factor would be there. But if he wants the best suited convertor for his car then engine build details-logging/dyno runs/report is the best way to find this out
If you don't plan on getting a custom built converter then go with a 3200.
06 MSRT8 Mods: PWR Aluminum 406, Thitek Heads, AGP Twin Turbo kit, ATF TH400, DSS 9'' IRS
Installed by GearHead Fabrications
When I say a little bit of head work= means the head is decked at a thousandths and port matched to fit my 6.1 intake manifold that is also Ported.