I have a dilemma in choosing what model Challenger to purchase. As soon as I purchase the Challenger it's going in for major mods stroker s/c complete drive train etc..
I can pick up a used RT for approx $25000. My mods and expenses required before stroker would be:
BC racing coil overs $1000
6.1 block core $1100
6.1 intake core $500
$6800 + $25000 = $31800
I can shop around and get a used SRT for $32000 and not have the core cost, or have to upgrade brake, but I wouldn't have it lowered or have the sweet wheels I like.
I guess it might come down to insurance... How much cheaper is RT insurance vs SRT? Other than insurance what is the benefit if having the SRT over the R/T?
Jason, for what you're planning on doing with it I would just buy an R/T. You can probably find one cheaper than $25k and yes insurance will be cheaper. But I would get the insurance to cover the actual build cost when you get done. I still wish we could have worked out some sort of trade a year ago.
Everything is FOR SALE!
There are four things to consider...
1. Seats. Some people love the SRT seats. I actually prefer the R/T seats (so does InferAl).
2. Brakes. Brembos are sweet, but I am not road racing. My R/T brakes are just fine.
3. EVIC. A few R/T cars have it, but all SRT cars have it. I don't miss it.
I know there are other (small) differences, but these are the ones that seem to be most important to folks discussing the differences between the R/T and SRT.
Last edited by novawagonmaster; 07-19-2011 at 09:05 AM.
10.29@132 N/A 468 (high comp alum block) in 2005 Magnum R/T
10.84@126 N/A 5.7 (high comp old 5.7) in 2010 Challenger R/T
11.71@113 N/A 5.7 (stock Eagle) in 2010 Challenger R/T
Last edited by Jweezy; 07-19-2011 at 04:06 PM.
I would go the route of the R/T.
I'm actually glad to see other people support that too. Most people across the forum will be quick to say you're dumb for not buying the SRT. I think they're dumb for not considering their options.
I went the route of the R/T and have done upgrades across the board. As you're finding, a modded R/T is cheaper than an SRT in the long run and you'll be much happier with where you are with it. When people ask me if I have an SRT, I just tell them it's something like that. Similar to your numbers, I have about $1000 in my pocket compared to what the SRT would have been and I've got wheels, brakes, suspension, cosmetics, and engine work done that will beat an SRT every day.
'06 Silver R/T with Road and Track on UAS
Why don't you just get a v6 then?
"That's what she said"
Don't forget pcm if you're doing a 6.1 based, and rear end (2.82?rt or 3.06srt)
Also styling, if you want to add the lip or not.
You can sell the srt wheels a lil more than the rt wheels
I know jarz has an rt magnum and a srt mag, and his srt is like 15 bucks cheaper a month for insurance.
I depends on just how much you're going to switch out. If you ditching the seats for race seats, or gutting
the interior, then get a v6 or rt for sure.
Or you can get an SRT and be able to rock that neat badge :D
Last edited by srt8madness; 07-19-2011 at 09:18 AM.
I ended up going with the R/T road and track when I started my build. This got me essentially the entire same inside of an SRT and everything else was getting changed anyways so I saved nearly $15k off the initial purchase price that all went to mods.
The only remaining issue that I should address is going to a 6.1 PCM which should be a little easier to tune....but the 5.7 PCM does work just fine too.
I have the SRT8 seats in my R/T Classic. I love them!
I'd agree with everyone else on this R/T for sure. With what your going to be doing I wouldn't waste the money on an srt either. And atm I'm paying 220 for insurance on my srt
Mopar CAI,Magnaflow cat-back,180 t-stat,Predator,245/40-275/40/20,demolded
Hemi Registery #1333 http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=215368
The R/T is the most likely candidate but there are certain circumstances where the V6 would do the job just fine. This much you'd have to evaluate yourself more thoroughly.
Bone stock time: 12.832 @ 108.51 with a 2.033 60ft... On GY F1's Full Weight
Predator and C&L Intake: 12.386 @ 111.78 1.868 60ft On GY F1's Full Weight
Current mods: Hi-Flows, 180. Volant, PS Cooler, Trans Cooler, SS Brake Lines, B&B exhaust.
Pedders Track II Extreme, Wavetrac, Moroso oil pan/catch can, 6.1 MTCM, Mopar trailer hitch.
I like hearing that you're looking at paying $25K for a used Challenger R/T, but I would think that if you shopped a little bit, you should be able to find a good one for less than that.
Something to consider: I have been told that the NAG1 in the SRT has more clutch pads than the NAG1 that they put in the R/T's (or at least it was with my 2005 Magnum R/T).
2005 Magnum RT load runner 2.6: Inertia Motorsports 419 Stroker, Predator Tune: 475rwhp & 465rwtq, Crower Cam, Kook's Headers, 3 inch "Custom" Exhaust, Tunable Induction Intake, NAG1-HTC Tranny, 3.55 Gears, 600hp DSS Half-Shafts, TrueFiber Challenger Hood, Enkei Wheels 18"x9", MT 28.00" / 12.00" x 18" radials on rear, Paneled Rear Side Windows, GoManGo Front Seats, Eibach Springs/Dampers, Wilwood Calipers, Rear Wiper Removed, Billet Technology enhancments.
2015 Charger SXT Plus Rallye
1999 Plymouth Prowler (yellow) Prowler Pro #11
Charger HC ordered. Status Code: D1
Just a thought, if you went for a V6 with intent to replace engine and tranny, you could see what rental car companies have for sale. I think Enterprise carries Dodge vehicles. Hertz only carries R/T as an exclusive rental. Most companies replace vehicles every year.
SRT Max cam, SLP 25% UD Pulley, Jet 180 T-Stat, Solo X-3 catback, 3.73 Getrag, LMI fenderwell CAI, and Zeitronix ZT-2 AFR, Blue Top solenoids.
Cam install and tune by Troy Ding. Dyno 31Aug2012: 414hp/410tq _Idle Video_ Best 1/4 mile: 12.428 @ 110.94 mph
All Mods listed at --> 6.1L Hemi Registry #1530 10ChallSRT8