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  1. #1
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    Apr 2008
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    Can't shift out of park, into gear, and pink thingy replacement

    After having my "pink thingy" break last week, I was able to find a quick answer to my problem on this forum. I found the cause of the problem explained, but not much detailed info as to what *exactly* each component was for. This article is to help others get quickly back on the road if their "pink thingy" breaks, and a much simpler solution for replacement that doesn't require removing the entire center console.

    First off, there are two interlocks on the shifter. As shown below, this is the normal position of the shifter. If you cannot move the shifter to the right at all and your key is NOT in the LOCK position, your ignition interlock (pink thingy) has probably broken.


    This is where *my* problem was. If you can move your shifter to the right, but not down, the brake interlock is faulty. The solution to *this* problem is much simpler. Begin by removing the tray liner to the right of the shifter. This will just lift out.




    On the lower left side there is a cutout. You should see a pink thing in there.


    Put your finger inside and press the pink thing to the left (towards the driver). As you hold it, you should be able to move the shifter into gear. Below I've shown what you're actually pressing with all the surrounding trim removed for a better explanation.




    NOW, if you're problem was like mine and you can't even move the shifter to the right, then the ignition interlock "pink thingy" is more than likely broken. You'll see exactly what broke on mine at the end of this post. To get quickly back on the road, and to go further and replace the pink thingy, here's what you need to do. This does NOT require removing the entire center console as I have seen in other threads and does NOT effect the shift cable positioning as others have experienced.

    Begin by removing the shift knob. It simply unscrews.




    Next, remove the trim around the shifter plate. This will just lift off.


    Lift off the front tray liner. You may need a screwdriver to get under it.


    Now, remove the two screws that were under the liner.


    Once you have done that, you should be able to lift out the console trim piece starting from the rear. There are four tabs, two in the rear and one on each side. You *may* need to pull out the ash tray. If so, just open the ash tray and pull the entire piece (trim and all) rearward.


    We now need to remove the shifter plate. First, make sure you remove the wire going to the light on the left side from its hold down. Just lift it out with a screwdriver.


    Lift out the shift plate. You may need to move some of the tabs - I only needed to push in on the one shown below.


    You'll now need to remove the light from the shift plate.


    A quarter turn counter-clockwise and it should pull out easily.


    We're at the point now where we can override the failed ignition interlock.


    Put your finger on the pink thingy on the left that has the cable on it.


    With the ignition key NOT in the LOCK position, push the pink thingy toward the rear of the car. Assuming you have gotten past the brake interlock (either pressing the brake or overriding manually) and moving the shifter to the right, you should now be able to move the shifter down and into gear.

    This is the state I left my car in for 2-3 days while I waited for my park lockout replacement from Billet Technology. I decided not to do the cotter pin mod as others have done in favor of a more professional solution. For about $60 shipped, it was much cheaper than the $175 my dealer quoted for a new shift assembly that would only be replacing the problem with a new problem waiting to happen.

    Once I received the new piece, I continued with my disassembly. With the key NOT in the LOCK position, you should be able to get slack on the ignition lock cable. Pull it rearward and up and out of the pink thingy.


    With the cable removed, lift the cable assembly white housing up and out of the way. There is a tab you will need to move toward the front of the car in order to lift out the housing. I've shown it below.


    We'll also need to remove the shift cable. This is where most people mess up. Do NOT undo the screw. The cable will simply slide to the right off the shifter assembly. Just put your fingers in there and push it off.




    Remove the two nuts at the front of the shift assembly


    Remove the two nuts at the rear of the shift assembly


    And push out the push-pin on the left side holding the carpet.


    You should now lift out the shift assembly. As you lift it out, you will need to remove the two connectors at the back. They have push tabs on them in order to pull them out.


    Once you've removed the shifter assembly, the outer housing removes by using a screwdriver on the one tab at the rear and one tab on each side. I only lifted mine up partially. Here you can see the pink thingy and where the tab broke off that normally attaches to the spring. The spring should be rolling around inside your shifter somewhere as is the smaller broken piece.


    And here it is reassembled with the new Billet Technology piece.


    Just reassemble in reverse order and you're good to go!

    Any questions/comments appreciated.
    Last edited by robertwinter; 10-12-2010 at 04:47 PM.
    Thanks fnkychkn thanked for this post



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    That little pink thingy, should it move back and forth with no tension either way after you unhook the cable from it? and where did you get the replacement piece for it? I think its most likely broken on mine to if you could of guessed so far..

  3. #3
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    Apr 2010
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    Indianapolis, IN
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    have your dealer check your VIN to see if your car has a recall. if not, I'm sure there is at least a TSB on this part. Chrysler has a replacement 'pink thingy' that I believe is also made of aluminum.

  4. #4
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    Sep 2010
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    Killeen, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNAMREFIEL View Post
    That little pink thingy, should it move back and forth with no tension either way after you unhook the cable from it? and where did you get the replacement piece for it? I think its most likely broken on mine to if you could of guessed so far..
    Billet Tech makes a billet aluminum piece for $40, or you can drill the pink piece right below where it broke, and attach the spring to it using a .10 cotter pin. The cotter pin would work as a permanent fix. The pink piece does move freely when not attached to the cable

    Quote Originally Posted by navy48 View Post
    have your dealer check your VIN to see if your car has a recall. if not, I'm sure there is at least a TSB on this part. Chrysler has a replacement 'pink thingy' that I believe is also made of aluminum.
    Unless you know something I dont, there hasnt been any TSB, or Recall for this issue, despite how well documented it is.
    Borrowed: Its not how fast I am, its how quickly I get to fast

  5. #5
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    Aug 2004
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    Good write up with photos.

    Bob
    Bob in Ocala, Florida, 05' Magnum RT, 74 years young - married 53 years. Superchips tuner & Flowmaster 40's. 402 Motoring rear spoiler, mud flaps, tinted & painted tail lights. Danko shaker hood, 69' Charger grille, front spoiler, rear diffuser.

  6. #6
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    Great writing and pictures. Been there, done that.

    It isn't easy being GREEN

  7. #7
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    Aug 2010
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    peoria Arizona
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    pink thinkey

    Your write up was very helpful . Thank you. The only difference was I needed to remove 5 screws to console and slide it back 1/4 inch . Tried removing ash tray but didn't help . Not sure why I needed to do this unless its because I have a 06 300c ? Wanted to thank again for excellent and detailed write up.










    Saving my money to buy a horse " High Horse"

  8. #8
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    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNAMREFIEL View Post
    and where did you get the replacement piece for it?
    I got mine here - http://www.custombilletstore.com/product_p/1028.htm

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Thanks but still need help

    I have repaired the ink thingy", and reassembled the unit but I still can not shift out of park without manually moving the pink lever at the rear (emergeny button). Now what? Is there some trick or something that I am missing on the reassembly of the unit. The white piece on the right side seems to not be in the correct place but I do not know where it is suppose to be. It has sometihing to do with the pink level on the right rear of unit that you can press in. Thanks for the help ASAP. Stranded!
    Last edited by Magnum2005; 10-19-2010 at 09:45 AM.

  10. #10
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    Oct 2005
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    Person Co. NC near Hyco Lake
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum2005 View Post
    I have repaired the ink thingy", and reassembled the unit but I still can not shift out of park without manually moving the pink lever at the rear (emergeny button). Now what? Is there some trick or something that I am missing on the reassembly of the unit. ...
    Check the electronics connections on the back of the shifter box. If something isn't plugged in properly you'll get that result.


    Nick
    2005 AWD RT Inferno Red Magnum
    Load leveling Nivomats added (Thanks Hemi31!)



  11. #11
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    Apr 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikdfish View Post
    Check the electronics connections on the back of the shifter box. If something isn't plugged in properly you'll get that result.


    Nick
    Thanks, everything is plugged in OK. what next? Could the spring be a little streched and cause this? I do not thing that I streched it , but I could get a new one or shorter one. Is there any way to test the connections other than press them in again? Is there a way to test there function, what ever they are?

  12. #12
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    To the best of my knowledge, the condition of the spring/function of the front pink thingy has no effect on the function rear pink thingy.

    As I recall, the rear interlock is related to the brake pedal being pressed, which is an electronic signal. The rear pink thingy is not part of the interlock per se, it is a way to manually actuate the interlock in the event of an electrical failure (like a dead battery). I'd have to guess that something about your connection, maybe even a problem with the connector or wiring, is keeping the signal from getting across.

    Sorry, but I can't make a better guess than that, maybe someone more knowledgable will chime in...

    Nick

  13. #13
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    Apr 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikdfish View Post
    To the best of my knowledge, the condition of the spring/function of the front pink thingy has no effect on the function rear pink thingy.

    As I recall, the rear interlock is related to the brake pedal being pressed, which is an electronic signal. The rear pink thingy is not part of the interlock per se, it is a way to manually actuate the interlock in the event of an electrical failure (like a dead battery). I'd have to guess that something about your connection, maybe even a problem with the connector or wiring, is keeping the signal from getting across.

    Sorry, but I can't make a better guess than that, maybe someone more knowledgable will chime in...

    Nick
    Thanks again, I am still working on it. Is there anyway to check the function of the two electrical connections? My question about the spring was related to where or not if it had gotten streched or something if that fact would prevent the "pink thingy" from working / reacting correctly. Thanks for the help and I still need it.

  14. #14
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    Sep 2010
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    saved

  15. #15
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    Apr 2005
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    It was the spring. It was to loose. All is well now. Thanks.

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