Now, Install the support clamps halves, 9320-1 and 9320-2 on the spindle as shown.
The support clamp halves have allen head screws. when tightening, tighten evenly. If after tightening the bosses of the lower half aren't flush with the upper half, unbolt the halves, and rotate the lower half 180 degrees. Re-tighten the screws. Now, mount the C-Frame press in a large vise. The amount of torque needed to remove the ball joint cannot be attained with the press unrestrained, even with a good 1/2" impact gun. Now. insert 9320-5 receiver into the cup area of the C-Frame. Install 9320-3 remover onto the screw-drive of the C-Frame. Insert the spindle as shown into the C-Frame as shown. Not in a vise yet in the picture:
9320-5 engages in 9320-1 & 2's recess. Now, tighten the forcing screw until the ball joint is all the way out. If you have a 1/2" impact gun this helps, but this ball joint was in there so tight, my IR Titanium gun didn't have enough power to get it to at least pop loose. So enter the long 1/2" ratchet. This will take some muscle and brute force. Tighten until the joint pops, then go the rest of the way out. Make sure to lube the forcing screw threads. Hitting the side of the spindle where the ball joint is pressed in helps sometimes, but if it just won't come out, enter a torch. Heat the spindle until it starts turning red, then continue tightening the forcing screw. If it still isn't budging, keep heating until the joint explodes (loud pop, don't worry about it, won't hit you, contained in the receiver), then tighten until it comes out. Luckily, I didn't have to use the torches, just brute force. Ball joint removed:
Now here's the factory joint, and the Napa replacement side by side. The replacement is taller than the factory one:
The stud is slightly taller, as well as the bottom, where there is also grease fitting. Now, remove 9320-1&2 from the spindle, and remove 9320-5 from the C-Frame, and install 9320-4 installer in it's place. Reverse 9320-3 on the screw-drive. Insert the new ball joint into the spindle. Remove the grease fitting to prevent damage. Lube the boot of the ball joint with petroleum jelly, and insert the spindle in the C-Frame as shown.
Tighten the forcing screw until the joint stops and won't pull the rest of the way. Here's where a problem exists...sort of... since the bottom of the ball joint is taller than original, it jams against the inside of 9320-3, preventing full insertion. This is where a full ball joint kit comes in handy. My C-frame is part of the OTC Jeep/Dodge Truck ball joint set, which includes various adaptors for different applications. Most ball joint kits do include a wide variety of adaptors, so you can figure out which adaptor works best to clear the bottom of the joint. This is what I used, shown next to 9320-3:
Tighten until fully seated, and remove from the C-Frame. Install the new snap ring, and the grease fitting. Installed picture, showing the adjustable offset:
Now the new ball joint stud threads are slightly beefier, so the top of the control arm hole needs a little love with a round file.
Now re-assemble. Insert the lower ball joint into the lower control arm and thread on the nut. Pull down on the upper control arm, and insert into the spindle, thread on the nut. Insert the tension strut into the spindle, thread on the nut. Insert the outer tie rod end, thread on the nut. Using the correct allen socket, hold the tension strut stud and tighten the nut. Repeat the same with the upper ball joint nut. Hold the tie rod end stud with a 10mm wrench, and tighten the nut. Now if you have a conventional ball joint, hold the stud with an allen socket and tighten the nut. If you have an adjustable offset, like this one, do not fully tighten the nut. Doing so will set the taper, and you will not be able to adjust the stud for correct alignment. Run it down enough to be able to turn the stud with the allen socket. When you align the car, set the stud to desired spec. then tighten the nut. A note, the Napa ball joint uses a 22mm nut instead of the factory 21mm nut.
Now re-assemble the rest. Grease the ball joint with a grease gun. I will point out one area of interest. The rotor dust shield bolts. Got a funny tinny ringing over bumps, but no loose suspension parts??? Look no further than the rotor dust shield bolts. You do not have to remove the rotor to get to these bolts, and open end 10mm wrench works here. Here is the bolt locations on the left side, symmetrically the same on the right side.
Hope this helps many people out.