Well, here's another "what you need to know" kinda deals. It's not intended to be a step-by-step, just more of a "Here's the important stuff" thread. It'll make a lot more sense if you've got the things in front of you than it will if you're just reading it ahead of time.
I'm not going to show every connection, as the few of them that you need to do are simple connections - join one wire to another.
I paid good money to have mine installed, because when I opened the box I was a little bit intimidated. Once I saw it installed, though, it was clear how straightforward it was. I decided to install Anitta's myself, and I took some pics when I did hers - and wanted to show you what you need to know to DIY.
I don't have pics of the O2 sensor or the lower harness, as that part was done by someone else - you have to drill a hole in the headers, and weld a steel bung in there for the O2 sensor. The bung size is M18x1.5, and you can get them HERE. Here's some more info on welding the bung: LINK
Once the bung is welded in, and the sensor is installed in there, the lower harness just needs to get routed up into the engine bay, by the firewall somewhere on the Driver's side.
Here's what comes in the kit, not including the lower harness:
Here's how things get plugged into the module:
The phone cord is where the signal leaves the unit and goes to your laptop. It includes a RJ11 to Serial adapter, and unless you have a Serial input on your laptop, you'll need to get a Serial to USB adapter cable. The CAT5-type (RJ45) connector that's labeled O2 Sensor is where the upper harness plugs in. The other end of the upper harness plugs into the Lower harness coming from the O2 sensor. Pics of that in a minute.
This is the part that looks a little bit intimidating:
But you actually only need to use four of those wires. Red is for 12v power, Black is 12v ground, Green is RPM signal, and Brown is signal ground. That's it. Tape the others together and out of the way:
Since you need the module to end up inside the cabin, you'll need to cut a slit in the firewall grommet shown. The RJ45 end of the upper harness needs to go through there, as well as the wiring for power, signal, and signal ground. You can grab the 12v ground from under the dash.
Once the RG45 end of the upper harness is routed through the firewall, connect the upper and lower harness together like so:
Now, to get the RPM signal, you can tap into an injector like so. Use the wire that enters the red dot on the injector, not the blue:
In the background, you can see the ring connector for the signal ground. That can mount on the stud at the rear of the head, where the black module is mounted (the one you can see behind the ring connector).
Since you can't get an end free to slip some heatshrink on there, you'll need to tape it up well after you solder a signal wire on there. Tape all around the solder joint by itself before you tape the bundle back together.
Up underneath the dash, you've now got the 12v power source wire, the signal wire, and the signal ground, along with the RJ45 end of the O2 harness. You can place the module there behind the knee kick plate or whatever you want to call it - the lower dash. Connect the 12v power wire to Red, the Signal Wire to Green, and the Signal Ground to Brown. Connect a short black lead with another ring connector to the Black, and ground that ring connector anywhere under the dash, such as the screws below the PCM.
As for 12v power, I came off the post in the engine bay (the charging post under the red hood). Pics of that later today if I think of it. You MUST MUST MUST use an inline fuse if you come off here. Pics of that will do wonders. I'll get them up and edit this. EDIT: as MadCharger points out below, this should really be a switched power source, and I'll make that change.
So once those connections are made, and each cable is plugged into the Module, like in the second picture up top there, you can bundle things together, and leave just a few inches of the phone cable available, and route that down to where your OBDII port is. That's the only thing you'll need to have access to for datalogging. I'd suggest you leave the RJ11 to Serial connector attached to your Serial to USB cable, and simple plug the RJ11 into the connector when you datalog. Pics of that will make it easier, and I'll add those soon too.
As far as the software setting, here's what you need to do. Set the number of Engine Cylinders to 1, and set the COM Port to whatever the laptop assigns to the USB port where your cable is plugged in. You can deselect the options that you're not using, to make a nice clean screen. All you need are AFR and RPM.
Here's what the logging screen will look like. You may get an occasional RPM spike like I did here, but it's no concern:
I'll come back and do some edits and clean this up when I'm back at home, but that's really all there is to it.
.
I'm not going to show every connection, as the few of them that you need to do are simple connections - join one wire to another.
I paid good money to have mine installed, because when I opened the box I was a little bit intimidated. Once I saw it installed, though, it was clear how straightforward it was. I decided to install Anitta's myself, and I took some pics when I did hers - and wanted to show you what you need to know to DIY.
I don't have pics of the O2 sensor or the lower harness, as that part was done by someone else - you have to drill a hole in the headers, and weld a steel bung in there for the O2 sensor. The bung size is M18x1.5, and you can get them HERE. Here's some more info on welding the bung: LINK
Once the bung is welded in, and the sensor is installed in there, the lower harness just needs to get routed up into the engine bay, by the firewall somewhere on the Driver's side.
Here's what comes in the kit, not including the lower harness:
Here's how things get plugged into the module:
The phone cord is where the signal leaves the unit and goes to your laptop. It includes a RJ11 to Serial adapter, and unless you have a Serial input on your laptop, you'll need to get a Serial to USB adapter cable. The CAT5-type (RJ45) connector that's labeled O2 Sensor is where the upper harness plugs in. The other end of the upper harness plugs into the Lower harness coming from the O2 sensor. Pics of that in a minute.
This is the part that looks a little bit intimidating:
But you actually only need to use four of those wires. Red is for 12v power, Black is 12v ground, Green is RPM signal, and Brown is signal ground. That's it. Tape the others together and out of the way:
Since you need the module to end up inside the cabin, you'll need to cut a slit in the firewall grommet shown. The RJ45 end of the upper harness needs to go through there, as well as the wiring for power, signal, and signal ground. You can grab the 12v ground from under the dash.
Once the RG45 end of the upper harness is routed through the firewall, connect the upper and lower harness together like so:
Now, to get the RPM signal, you can tap into an injector like so. Use the wire that enters the red dot on the injector, not the blue:
In the background, you can see the ring connector for the signal ground. That can mount on the stud at the rear of the head, where the black module is mounted (the one you can see behind the ring connector).
Since you can't get an end free to slip some heatshrink on there, you'll need to tape it up well after you solder a signal wire on there. Tape all around the solder joint by itself before you tape the bundle back together.
Up underneath the dash, you've now got the 12v power source wire, the signal wire, and the signal ground, along with the RJ45 end of the O2 harness. You can place the module there behind the knee kick plate or whatever you want to call it - the lower dash. Connect the 12v power wire to Red, the Signal Wire to Green, and the Signal Ground to Brown. Connect a short black lead with another ring connector to the Black, and ground that ring connector anywhere under the dash, such as the screws below the PCM.
As for 12v power, I came off the post in the engine bay (the charging post under the red hood). Pics of that later today if I think of it. You MUST MUST MUST use an inline fuse if you come off here. Pics of that will do wonders. I'll get them up and edit this. EDIT: as MadCharger points out below, this should really be a switched power source, and I'll make that change.
So once those connections are made, and each cable is plugged into the Module, like in the second picture up top there, you can bundle things together, and leave just a few inches of the phone cable available, and route that down to where your OBDII port is. That's the only thing you'll need to have access to for datalogging. I'd suggest you leave the RJ11 to Serial connector attached to your Serial to USB cable, and simple plug the RJ11 into the connector when you datalog. Pics of that will make it easier, and I'll add those soon too.
As far as the software setting, here's what you need to do. Set the number of Engine Cylinders to 1, and set the COM Port to whatever the laptop assigns to the USB port where your cable is plugged in. You can deselect the options that you're not using, to make a nice clean screen. All you need are AFR and RPM.
Here's what the logging screen will look like. You may get an occasional RPM spike like I did here, but it's no concern:
I'll come back and do some edits and clean this up when I'm back at home, but that's really all there is to it.
.