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  1. #1
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    Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement

    Here is a quick post on replacing the camshaft sensor.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



    2. Locate the camshaft position sensor, it is on the passenger side in the front on the block.



    3. Remove 10mm bolt and remove camshaft sensor.



    4. Unplug sensor, apply dielectric grease to new sensor and plug in, apply a small amount of grease to o-ring, replace into block and tighten bolt. Can't remember torque spec but will update it when I find it back.
    5. Reconnect battery cable.

    Thanks Seven, fnkychkn thanked for this post
    Likes Seven liked this post



  2. #2
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    why did you unhook the battery? that part alone takes more time them the rest of the job.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOL SRT-8 View Post
    why did you unhook the battery? that part alone takes more time them the rest of the job.
    I was doing my crankshaft position sensor at the same time and to cover my a$$.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by swagon View Post
    I was doing my crankshaft position sensor at the same time and to cover my a$$.
    cool.

  5. #5
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    whew.. its not as easy as it looks.. purchased a camshaft from Engine Power parts and tried to install it via DIY. Took me 2 hrs but i was able to do it and am happy i did it. thanks.
    Last edited by archebald23; 08-28-2010 at 04:26 AM.

  6. #6
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    .........
    Last edited by Mighty Noid; 08-26-2010 at 02:57 AM.
    Thank you Bigal470

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by archebald23 View Post
    whew.. its not as easy as it looks.. purchased a camshaft from Engine Power parts and tried to install it via DIY. Took me 2 hrs but i was able to do it and am happy i did it. thanks.
    a camshaft and a camshaft sensor are different items... we are talking about a sensor on this thread...

    it should only take about 5 mins to replace the sensor....

    to do a camshaft should take a few hours...

  8. #8
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    Aug 2008
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    after i replaced my camshaft sensor i got a whole slew of codes and it takes forever for my mag to turn over.

    codes i got are 061c, 2172, 0340, 0344 and 0406. thought it might be a bad sensor so i put the old one back and i get the same thing.

    what did i do wrong?

  9. #9
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    wanted to start a new thread on this but I figured I'd ask here first. I actually changed my camshaft position sensor about a year ago. when I did it, I accidentally crossthreaded the bolt that goes into the block. It was only partially screwed down though, and I backed it out and put it back in straight, I think.

    either way, I just thought about it now and decided to ask. is this going to be an issue later on? am I going to be needing to replace that thing again any time soon? I don't think it was bad the first time, I just replaced it because it was relatively cheap and I had an intermittent starting issue. aren't the blocks iron? how in the world was I able to partially strip the threads? or was I mistaken and I partially stripped the threads on the bolt?

  10. #10
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    Did this this morning as I was getting the long crank to start 3-4 times a day taking 3-4 times to start. Took about 8 min to do. Time will tell if it was the fix. But I did notice that for the first time in 96,000mi my car idles smooth now. Like Lexus smooth.

    Jay
    2013 Honda Accord EX - 2.4L/6-Speed Manual

    2004 Chrysler Pacifica AWD-Everything but the kitchen sink.
    2011 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic - Redline 3-Coat Pearl, 6-speed - Gone
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT-Can you say...HEMI? - Gone
    1989 WS6/L98 Trans Am-Got Torque? - Gone

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by keviiinn View Post
    wanted to start a new thread on this but I figured I'd ask here first. I actually changed my camshaft position sensor about a year ago. when I did it, I accidentally crossthreaded the bolt that goes into the block. It was only partially screwed down though, and I backed it out and put it back in straight, I think.

    either way, I just thought about it now and decided to ask. is this going to be an issue later on? am I going to be needing to replace that thing again any time soon? I don't think it was bad the first time, I just replaced it because it was relatively cheap and I had an intermittent starting issue. aren't the blocks iron? how in the world was I able to partially strip the threads? or was I mistaken and I partially stripped the threads on the bolt?
    If its in and tight I would let sleeping dogs lie. If you do have to change it again just be careful when threading it back in. Maybe chase the threads first to clean them up with a tap.

    Jay

  12. #12
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    Ok, retard question time regarding number 4.

    4. Unplug sensor, apply dielectric grease to new sensor and plug in, apply a small amount of grease to o-ring, replace into block and tighten bolt. Can't remember torque spec but will update it when I find it back.

    Where exactly on the sensor do I apply it too? Obviously, it is the part that goes into the block, but the whole thing? Also, do I use the same dielectric grease on the o-ring? Do I remove it and grease, or grease while it is in?

    Thanks for the help. I have gotten this long cranking start for too long and I'm going to give this a try.

  13. #13
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    I believe he meant to apply the grease to the terminals. Then apply a light amount to the OD of the Oring with it installed on the sensor. No need to coat the entire sensor.

    I did not do any of this and it has been ok sofar.




    Jay

    Via Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    Did anyone else get any codes after chaning the sensor im may to try and do mine tonight if i can find one in stock, hope this fixes my problem

  15. #15
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    I was getting a ruff idle with vibration. I change the cam sensor and noticeable smoother idle. before the change if i stop too fast the car felt like it wanted to stall not anymore. hopefully this may help someone with similar issues.

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