Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 46
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like

    8.8 Ford Diff Install W/Pictures

    My son & I installed the Paramount 8.8 Ford diff tonight. Working from the car being up on blocks W/the stock diff, halfshafts & driveshaft removed, it took a little over 3 hours to remove the OEM "06" hubs, replace them W/the "09" hubs & install the Paramont halfshafts, driveshaft & differential center section.

    If you need guidance for the removal of the stock parts & the R&R of the hubs, this excellent thread by Hemi31 covers all that. Thank you Erik for sharing your vast knowledge on the subject!

    http://lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=111839

    OK, so you have the old stuff pulled, you have replaced the old hubs W/the updated "09" hubs & installed the paramount halfshafts.

    Here is where it differs a bit, but 1st, this is what you will get W/a typical Paramount 8.8 changeover kit.





    From top to bottom:
    • Center section & front mount adaptor
    • NIB "09" Challenger hubs
    • Paramount halfshafts
    • Paramont driveshaft rear portion (4 bolts are included for the driveshaft flange, but are not shown in the picture)
    Unless you have Bill include an OEM rear diff mount/cover like I did, you will have to re-use your OEM diff mount/cover. You must specify if you will be using a 210mm or 215mm mount/cover.

    So here we go:

    Here are 2 different views on the front mount adaptor. It uses the OEM rubber bushing/mount & screw. These shots show how the adaptor integrates W/the OEM bushing & front mount screw.

    The beveled surface goes down & the 2 tapped holes will be to the front of the mount bolt hole.






    Install the front mount adaptor in the OEM front mount location. Make sure to torque the Allen head bolt before raising the center section into place. The beveled edges go down & the 2 threaded holes are oriented to the front of the mount bolt counterbore. Try to keep the adaptor "square" but do not be overly concerned as the adaptor, being mounted through the OEM rubber bushing, can be jimmied for final bolt hole alignment when the center section is bolted up to the chassis.

    Here are 2 views of the adaptor installed in the OEM front mount location.





    Next, move the center section into place on a floor jack & insert the halfshaft splines into the carrier. Insert one side fully till the snap ring engages the side gears, then the other. Unlike the OEM 215mm unit, it is not neccessary to have the suspension compressed/loaded to do this. It can be done W/the wheels hanging & the chassis on jack stands. There is no need to compress the lower control arms.

    IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have the Detroit True Trac LSD, do not install the rear cover until the following steps are completed!

    After the halfshafts are installed, but before raising the center section into place, applying the rear cover or bolting up the driveshaft, a spacer must be inserted & secured between the halfshafts in the Detroit True Trac LSD carrier.

    Rotate the ring gear untill you see the large hole in the LSD carrier facing rearward.

    This is what you will see.



    This spacer can be a bit difficult to insert & you must assure that the spline ends are pushed fully outward to do so. Use a small prybar to pry the spline ends out enough to allow the spacer to be inserted.

    This shot looks a lot like the last one, but the spacer is in place.



    A plug is then inserted & secured W/a snap ring to hold the spacer in place. Make damned sure that snap ring is fully seated into the groove. The snap ring was not seated fully in this shot. I had to fight it a bit W/my crappy snap ring pliers to get it into the bore. After getting it somewhat in place, I used my snap ring pliers to again grasp & rotate the ring to get it seated completely



    Now you can put a bead of RTV silicone on the cover & apply the cover. Use RTV on the bolt threads & run a bead of RTV in the right rear mount hole threads.



    Install the drive shaft W/the 4 bolts provided W/the kit. Use loctite on the bolts & torque the bolts.

    Here we are ready to raise the center section into place after applying the cover & bolting up the driveshaft. Now is a good time to fill the diff W/gear lube. Bill recommends a non synthetic gear lube for quicker break in, changing to synthetic after break in. Since I live @ least 3 hours drive from the nearest drag strip & will be able to break in the gears gradually, I opted to fill it W/75/140 Synthetic gear lube. We put 2 Quarts of gear lube in & it is not all the way full, perhaps 1/2" from the level hole. I will stop & get another quart on the way home from work tomorrow to top it off.



    Jack the center section into place. Start the rear mount bolts & run them down most of the way, but leave a little wiggle room to align the front mount bolts. The front mount adaptor can be jimmied a bit to make final alignment. Make sure you get @ least 3 threads started before you try to use a ratchet on the front mount adaptor bolts. They can easily be cross threaded in the soft aluminum adaptor. Be patient & get it right the 1st time.

    Once all the mount bolts are started & run down most of the way, torque the 2 rear mount & 2 front adaptor bolts. Install & torque the center bearing carrier bolts, install the heat shield & you are ready to replace the cat-back.

    Have a few beers.
    Last edited by PowerWagon896; 08-23-2009 at 04:43 PM.




    426 RWHP/460 RWTQ on motor, 555 RWHP on a 150 shot of juice
    12.062 @ 113.97 on motor, 11.306 @ 121.87 on a 125 HP shot
    Stock 5.7 rotating assembly, still MDS enabled



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Bowie, MD
    Posts
    1,835
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great write up Dan. What ratio did you go with ?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Reston, Va
    Posts
    14,663
    Post Thanks / Like

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    almost Mexico, CA
    Posts
    3,740
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice write up. and Damn that's a beefy set-up!

    "The 5.7L engine was designed to be a balance of cost, weight, and power. The SRT 6.1L engine was designed to kick ass." - Team SRT
    "She'll make point five past lightspeed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself." Han Solo - the future of Hot Rodding

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by HEMIDON View Post
    Great write up Dan. What ratio did you go with ?
    Since I plan to run mostly on "motor" I went W/3,23s & will run 28" M&H 325/45 17 drag radials. It should red line in 3rd @ about 122 MPH MAX @ 6700 RPM.

    A 3.08 would be better W/spray, but since I do not want to run a roll cage, I will save the spray for track rentals. Maybe try to find some 29" rubber for the juice.

    Bill also has a 3.31 ratio available.
    Last edited by PowerWagon896; 04-10-2009 at 12:45 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RobAGD View Post
    I think he got the 3.73's

    -R





    /me runs !
    What you talkin' 'bout Willis?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Suffolk, Virginia
    Posts
    4,581
    Post Thanks / Like
    Dang those rear ends are looking good !

    N/A ET
    10.44@128 < Once upon a Time

    Joy ride TT Challenger 9.71@143

    Slow Poking along in Stock to a T 6.1



  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ujokin2 View Post
    Dang those rear ends are looking good !

    I think Bill has a 3.23 True Trac (or perhaps a 3.08?) W/your name on it.

    The ones W/the new one piece cover/side bearing cap girdle ought to look down right sexy.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Suffolk, Virginia
    Posts
    4,581
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by PowerWagon896 View Post
    I think Bill has a 3.23 True Trac (or perhaps a 3.08?) W/your name on it.

    The ones W/the new one piece cover/side bearing cap girdle ought to look down right sexy.
    Yup I'm awaitting on it...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    4,209
    Post Thanks / Like
    Damn, those look like excellent pieces. Well made and engineered!

    I do have a question though, what are the advantages of this over a set of 1000hp shafts and a ring gear set in the stock housing?!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ujokin2 View Post
    Yup I'm awaitting on it...
    Which ratio are you getting?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by EXTREME View Post
    Damn, those look like excellent pieces. Well made and engineered!

    I do have a question though, what are the advantages of this over a set of 1000hp shafts and a ring gear set in the stock housing?!
    The design & thought put into this is superb, the craftsmanship is amazing. The price is affordable for a unit of this quality.

    This is only the 3rd prototype. Bill has more patented improvements in the pipeline.

    As far as the advantages? The 8.8 Ford has tremendous support from both OEM & aftermarket sources. Just do a "Google" on it.

    Options are endless & replacement parts are both readily available & affordable unlike the Mercedes derived OEM parts. The diff is just about as strong as the vaunted 9" Ford & more adaptable to our applications.

    I was going to do a Richmond R&P W/a Quaife & upgraded axles. By the time I sold my 215mm diff It was about a wash pricewise.

    If you already have an upgraded 215mm OEM diff W/axles/Quaife/better ratio, that's a great unit & it will serve you well. If you haven't upgraded yet, you might want to investgate one of these units.
    Last edited by PowerWagon896; 04-10-2009 at 07:19 AM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Suffolk, Virginia
    Posts
    4,581
    Post Thanks / Like
    Would like to try those 3.31s but I think he may have shipped them out already. If he hasn't HINT HINT BILL.

    Anyway it will eventually end up on the 426 Challenger when its ready. Wonder if that gear in the Diablo selection ( 3.31) ?
    Last edited by ujokin2; 04-10-2009 at 01:01 AM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,440
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ujokin2 View Post
    Would like to try those 3.31s but I think he may have shipped them out already. If he hasn't HINT HINT BILL.

    Anyway it will eventually end up on the 426 Challenger when its ready. Wonder if that gear in the Diablo selection ( 3.31) ?
    Yes the 3.31's work.
    Just plug in the 3.23's in the Diablo. I specifically tested that combination.

    That is an advantage of the 8.8, so many options,
    Bill


  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waiting on the gravy train
    Posts
    5,806
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ujokin2 View Post
    Would like to try those 3.31s but I think he may have shipped them out already. If he hasn't HINT HINT BILL.

    Anyway it will eventually end up on the 426 Challenger when its ready. Wonder if that gear in the Diablo selection ( 3.31) ?
    A 3.31 on 28" rubber will be almost identical in effective FDR to a 3.06 on 26" rubber.

    I think it would be too short for your amount of TQ/HP. It would hit limp mode @ a 6700 RPM rev limit @ about 118 MPH in 3rd gear.

    The 3.31 would be about ideal for a N/A stock displacement application that will make HP in the top of the RPM range. I am beginning to wonder if I should have opted for it. On 26" drag radials W/my 3.06 I was getting uncomfortably close to limp mode @ the traps so I went W/3.23. I am hoping to make more low end TQ W/my new cam. That would make the 3.23 viable.

    I think Diablo has a 3.33 option. That will be within the 5% parameter for ratio compatability.

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •