Great write up Dan. What ratio did you go with ?
My son & I installed the Paramount 8.8 Ford diff tonight. Working from the car being up on blocks W/the stock diff, halfshafts & driveshaft removed, it took a little over 3 hours to remove the OEM "06" hubs, replace them W/the "09" hubs & install the Paramont halfshafts, driveshaft & differential center section.
If you need guidance for the removal of the stock parts & the R&R of the hubs, this excellent thread by Hemi31 covers all that. Thank you Erik for sharing your vast knowledge on the subject!
OK, so you have the old stuff pulled, you have replaced the old hubs W/the updated "09" hubs & installed the paramount halfshafts.
Here is where it differs a bit, but 1st, this is what you will get W/a typical Paramount 8.8 changeover kit.
From top to bottom:
Unless you have Bill include an OEM rear diff mount/cover like I did, you will have to re-use your OEM diff mount/cover. You must specify if you will be using a 210mm or 215mm mount/cover.
- Center section & front mount adaptor
- NIB "09" Challenger hubs
- Paramount halfshafts
- Paramont driveshaft rear portion (4 bolts are included for the driveshaft flange, but are not shown in the picture)
So here we go:
Here are 2 different views on the front mount adaptor. It uses the OEM rubber bushing/mount & screw. These shots show how the adaptor integrates W/the OEM bushing & front mount screw.
The beveled surface goes down & the 2 tapped holes will be to the front of the mount bolt hole.
Install the front mount adaptor in the OEM front mount location. Make sure to torque the Allen head bolt before raising the center section into place. The beveled edges go down & the 2 threaded holes are oriented to the front of the mount bolt counterbore. Try to keep the adaptor "square" but do not be overly concerned as the adaptor, being mounted through the OEM rubber bushing, can be jimmied for final bolt hole alignment when the center section is bolted up to the chassis.
Here are 2 views of the adaptor installed in the OEM front mount location.
Next, move the center section into place on a floor jack & insert the halfshaft splines into the carrier. Insert one side fully till the snap ring engages the side gears, then the other. Unlike the OEM 215mm unit, it is not neccessary to have the suspension compressed/loaded to do this. It can be done W/the wheels hanging & the chassis on jack stands. There is no need to compress the lower control arms.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have the Detroit True Trac LSD, do not install the rear cover until the following steps are completed!
After the halfshafts are installed, but before raising the center section into place, applying the rear cover or bolting up the driveshaft, a spacer must be inserted & secured between the halfshafts in the Detroit True Trac LSD carrier.
Rotate the ring gear untill you see the large hole in the LSD carrier facing rearward.
This is what you will see.
This spacer can be a bit difficult to insert & you must assure that the spline ends are pushed fully outward to do so. Use a small prybar to pry the spline ends out enough to allow the spacer to be inserted.
This shot looks a lot like the last one, but the spacer is in place.
A plug is then inserted & secured W/a snap ring to hold the spacer in place. Make damned sure that snap ring is fully seated into the groove. The snap ring was not seated fully in this shot. I had to fight it a bit W/my crappy snap ring pliers to get it into the bore. After getting it somewhat in place, I used my snap ring pliers to again grasp & rotate the ring to get it seated completely
Now you can put a bead of RTV silicone on the cover & apply the cover. Use RTV on the bolt threads & run a bead of RTV in the right rear mount hole threads.
Install the drive shaft W/the 4 bolts provided W/the kit. Use loctite on the bolts & torque the bolts.
Here we are ready to raise the center section into place after applying the cover & bolting up the driveshaft. Now is a good time to fill the diff W/gear lube. Bill recommends a non synthetic gear lube for quicker break in, changing to synthetic after break in. Since I live @ least 3 hours drive from the nearest drag strip & will be able to break in the gears gradually, I opted to fill it W/75/140 Synthetic gear lube. We put 2 Quarts of gear lube in & it is not all the way full, perhaps 1/2" from the level hole. I will stop & get another quart on the way home from work tomorrow to top it off.
Jack the center section into place. Start the rear mount bolts & run them down most of the way, but leave a little wiggle room to align the front mount bolts. The front mount adaptor can be jimmied a bit to make final alignment. Make sure you get @ least 3 threads started before you try to use a ratchet on the front mount adaptor bolts. They can easily be cross threaded in the soft aluminum adaptor. Be patient & get it right the 1st time.
Once all the mount bolts are started & run down most of the way, torque the 2 rear mount & 2 front adaptor bolts. Install & torque the center bearing carrier bolts, install the heat shield & you are ready to replace the cat-back.
Have a few beers.
Last edited by PowerWagon896; 08-23-2009 at 04:43 PM.
Great write up Dan. What ratio did you go with ?
Nice write up. and Damn that's a beefy set-up!
"The 5.7L engine was designed to be a balance of cost, weight, and power. The SRT 6.1L engine was designed to kick ass." - Team SRT
"She'll make point five past lightspeed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself." Han Solo - the future of Hot Rodding
A 3.08 would be better W/spray, but since I do not want to run a roll cage, I will save the spray for track rentals. Maybe try to find some 29" rubber for the juice.
Bill also has a 3.31 ratio available.
Last edited by PowerWagon896; 04-10-2009 at 12:45 AM.
This is only the 3rd prototype. Bill has more patented improvements in the pipeline.
As far as the advantages? The 8.8 Ford has tremendous support from both OEM & aftermarket sources. Just do a "Google" on it.
Options are endless & replacement parts are both readily available & affordable unlike the Mercedes derived OEM parts. The diff is just about as strong as the vaunted 9" Ford & more adaptable to our applications.
I was going to do a Richmond R&P W/a Quaife & upgraded axles. By the time I sold my 215mm diff It was about a wash pricewise.
If you already have an upgraded 215mm OEM diff W/axles/Quaife/better ratio, that's a great unit & it will serve you well. If you haven't upgraded yet, you might want to investgate one of these units.
Last edited by PowerWagon896; 04-10-2009 at 07:19 AM.
Would like to try those 3.31s but I think he may have shipped them out already. If he hasn't HINT HINT BILL.
Anyway it will eventually end up on the 426 Challenger when its ready. Wonder if that gear in the Diablo selection ( 3.31) ?
Last edited by ujokin2; 04-10-2009 at 01:01 AM.
I think it would be too short for your amount of TQ/HP. It would hit limp mode @ a 6700 RPM rev limit @ about 118 MPH in 3rd gear.
The 3.31 would be about ideal for a N/A stock displacement application that will make HP in the top of the RPM range. I am beginning to wonder if I should have opted for it. On 26" drag radials W/my 3.06 I was getting uncomfortably close to limp mode @ the traps so I went W/3.23. I am hoping to make more low end TQ W/my new cam. That would make the 3.23 viable.
I think Diablo has a 3.33 option. That will be within the 5% parameter for ratio compatability.