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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Upgrading Grounding Cables...

    I decided while I am doing all my stereo work that I would upgrade the ground cables.

    This process should be the same for all LX's with the 5-speed nag-1 transmission

    Tonight I finished up so I got more pics of the process...

    Rear Cable from battery to chassis...


    first remove the stock cable there is (2) 10mm nuts, one on the battery, one on the body

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    here is the stud on the body...

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    I replaced the cable with a #2 awg ground cable... I used a 12" cable...

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    comparison of the stock cable to the new cable...

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    Cable from shock tower to top of bell housing (transmission)...

    here is the top mounting point... remove the 10mm nut here...

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    I then jacked the car up...

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    found the bottom mounting point... remove the 13mm nut here...

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    here is the stock cable it is 24" long...

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    I then got a #2 awg ground cable. since I couldn't get one with 2 ring terminals on it I cut the battery post end off... I used a 25" cable

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    I also bought #2 battery cable lugs

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    crimped the end on then added heat shrink...

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    finally I got the cable installed...

    top...

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    bottom...

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    -Ryan
    -Ryan
    <<<clicky...
    '93 1500 SB - 250k, '05 Magnum RT - 19k, '80 El Camino - 86k



  2. #2
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    pardon the silly question,but what are the benefits of doing this..Doesn't seem difficult to do..
    06 SXT AWD Magnum, Silver Steele Metallic: Chrysler's Red headed stepchild!!!

    I drive mine like I just left the bank after an unapproved forced permanent loan ...


  3. #3
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    main deal in our cars is the stock cables are very small...

    here is a google explaination...

    As many of you know, upgrading the "Big 3" wires in your engine compartment can lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower resistance are typically:

    1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
    2) More stable voltage and better current flow
    3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

  4. #4
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    Great Post and nice info...............

    RP's coming your way.
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  5. #5
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    a couple of tips:
    1- clean any paint/e-coat from grounding studs.
    2- crimp and solder the cable lugs. crimping alone may not be enough. starter draw goes through this lug.
    Izzy pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Canadianknight
    I got it all straightened out with them guys. All good... feel bad for calling 'em a stealership now.


  6. #6
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    swwwwwweeeeet.

  7. #7
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    Great post imahemi!


    Quote Originally Posted by fnkychkn View Post
    a couple of tips:
    1- clean any paint/e-coat from grounding studs.
    2- crimp and solder the cable lugs. crimping alone may not be enough. starter draw goes through this lug.
    Hey fnky,

    I'm thinking of upgrading the cables too. The rear cable is a no brainer, will do exactly as posted above.

    I'm looking for an easier way to do the front cable. I'm thinking of adding a second cable rather than replacing the OEM. Maybe connecting near the alternator and then to the body using existing bolts. Does this sound reasonable?
    Previously known as 'alpha' and 'b.71'

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpha View Post
    Great post imahemi!
    Hey fnky,

    I'm thinking of upgrading the cables too. The rear cable is a no brainer, will do exactly as posted above.

    I'm looking for an easier way to do the front cable. I'm thinking of adding a second cable rather than replacing the OEM. Maybe connecting near the alternator and then to the body using existing bolts. Does this sound reasonable?

    if you get the cable before hand and have a set of ramps or a jack and jack stands this cable can be upgraded in no time. the hardest thing I had was getting the trans tube support moved enough to get the cable on and off the stud.

    -R

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by imahemi View Post
    if you get the cable before hand and have a set of ramps or a jack and jack stands this cable can be upgraded in no time. the hardest thing I had was getting the trans tube support moved enough to get the cable on and off the stud.

    -R
    Thanks for the info. Please understand I wasn't bashing your method .
    I appreciate the pictures you posted and they got me to thinking about how to get the same improvement with a bit less effort

    Again, great post!

  10. #10
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    :)

    Quote Originally Posted by imahemi View Post
    main deal in our cars is the stock cables are very small...

    here is a google explaination...

    As many of you know, upgrading the "Big 3" wires in your engine compartment can lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower resistance are typically:

    1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
    2) More stable voltage and better current flow
    3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system
    So did it fix any of those problems
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackCharger06 View Post
    So did it fix any of those problems
    I didnt have any of those issues... I did mine as a preventative only

  12. #12
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    lol i noticed the other night while my car was warming up, i pressed the 1 touch window down button and my headlights dimmed...

    would this fix that?
    Hemi Registry #1495



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  13. #13
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    Great info. Doing the BIG 3 is always beneficial.

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  14. #14
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    I'm going to do this for preventive maint as well - nice writeup, thanks!
    397 Stroker - ProCharger - BRING IT!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpha View Post
    Great post imahemi!




    Hey fnky,

    I'm thinking of upgrading the cables too. The rear cable is a no brainer, will do exactly as posted above.

    I'm looking for an easier way to do the front cable. I'm thinking of adding a second cable rather than replacing the OEM. Maybe connecting near the alternator and then to the body using existing bolts. Does this sound reasonable?
    don't see why not. just make sure you get good contact for low resistance connections.

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