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Power Steering Fluid Flush

66K views 28 replies 20 participants last post by  Peter Pruitt 
#1 · (Edited)
The power steering fluid in my car looked dark, smelled burnt and the steering was stiff until it warmed up. Here's what I did to flush the old oil out myself.

Tools needed: Flat screwdriver, pliers, 10 mm wrench/socket, suction gun, 5/16th OD plastic tubing/hose, funnel, oil bucket, 4 Liters ATF+4, A plug (to fit over the hose connector on the bottom of the reservoir, I used a large vacuum cover that I had, I'm guessing it's 5/16th's ID)

Time needed: less than an hour.
Difficulty Level: A little more than beginner, not much, but some.

1.) Remove the air filter box. 1 clamp on the air intake hose, 1 air box hold down bolt towards the grill, and remove the hose running from the air intake to the manifold. The air box lifts right out.
2.) Use the suction gun to suck as much oil out of the reservoir as possible.
3.) Stuff a rag down under the hoses(for when you pull off the hose).
4.) Locate the smaller of the 2 hoses on the bottom of the reservoir and use the pliers to squeeze the hose clamp and pull the hose off.
5.) Take the 5/16th clear plastic tubing and stuff it down the hose and use the existing clamp to secure it.
6.)Put the plug on the hose connector on the bottom of the reservoir.
7.) Put the funnel in the reservoir and fill up the reservoir with new oil.
8.) Put the 5/16th hose/tubing in the oil bucket. (hang on to it, there's lots of pressure!)
9.) Have someone else start the car and crank the wheel while you pour the new oil. The new oil wouldn't pour out of the container fast enough. The reservoir would suck dry fairly quickly so have the other person shut the car off as needed and refill the reservoir before restarting.
10.) Repeat until you see good clean oil coming out the hose. (I used 3 liters, probably way more than needed.)
11.) Put everything back together as it was and refill the reservoir to the correct level. Be sure to crank the wheels lock to lock a few times to purge any air out of the system and once it's been driven for a while, check the level again.

Here's a picture half way through so you get the idea.
 
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#3 ·
. . . A plug (to fit over the hose connector on the bottom of the reservoir, . . .
What exactly did you use to plug that resevoir?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Power steering maintenance - RACK and Pinion service.

Hello All:

After flushing and adding lucus oil conditioner...

I found that the RACK is serviceable. I had a moan in my steering and tried everything to do with the fluid. MY car had low mileage and I refused to replace the rack. However, I do leave it parked outside.

I fixed the moan/groan. The answer was to remove the dustboots and grease the spools of the rack with clear silicon grease after cleaning them. Turn left and right 10 times with the front end off the ground so that the grease can coat the seals. Grease them while extended.

While your at it you can clean the inner tie rods and do them if they are not too loose. Put the boots back on and place clamps on and your done.

What a difference.

If the problem comes back or gets worse... the rack will have to be changed. What I do not understand is that my wife's Mazda has 225000km with the original rack. Go figure.
 
#14 ·
To update this thread, I used a 3/8" hose and 3/8" barbed fitting to connect the return and drain hoses. Seemed to be the correct size instead of 5/16". 3/8" vacuum fitting on the bottom of the reservoir.

Fluid moves VERY fast if you do the start and stop routine using the engine. Doing it again, I would have tried to use a fluid transfer pump to suck the fluid through.

I also used a Dexron VI/Mercon LV/SP equivalent Amsoil synthetic ATF which is thinner than regular ATF as car companies hope for better gas mileage. It seemed to make the steering feel lighter. I initially used regular Amsoil ATF.

Measured cSt @ 100*C, ATF+4 has a minimum rating 7.3 while Dex VI has a max rating of 6.5, Mercon SP maximum of 6.0. Lower numbers = thinner oil. Regular Amsoil ATF is 7.6, Amsoil LV is 6.0.

Its only been a few days since the low viscosity switch. I'll update in a few months if any long term issues arise but I don't anticipate any.

HTH :thumbs_u:
 
#17 ·
Is there any bleeding that needs to be done after this procedure? I unhooked the lines under the rack and let them drain, then refilled, ran the car turning the wheels stop to stop a few times. Then while driving later on and during left turns I get a vibration noise/feel? and now just wondering if there is trapped air.
 
#18 ·
Is there any bleeding that needs to be done after this procedure? I unhooked the lines under the rack and let them drain, then refilled, ran the car turning the wheels stop to stop a few times. Then while driving later on and during left turns I get a vibration noise/feel? and now just wondering if there is trapped air.
yes, the system needs to be bled. to do this, you need to put the reservoir under a vacuum for a few minutes.
 
#19 ·
But , won't the bubbles rise to the top over nite? It is better today, only heard that noise this morning
 
#23 ·
OK,
somewhere I've read that there may be some sort of little metal filter that collects rubber particles or am I smoking crack?

I'll be using the method the OP used this weekend.

While I do have some whine at full lock I don't think steering is still when cold in Chicagoland I'm at 100K and I'd like to get this done.
 
#24 ·
It's in the reservoir where you fill it. Little plastic(?) strainer.
 
#28 ·
I'm considering draining the reservoir, taking the inlet and return lines off of the reservoir and attaching a barbed coupling to both lines extending the return line to a bucket to catch the old fluid, extending the intake line into a large jug of fresh power steering fluid. I'd have to prime that intake hose with fresh fluid so that there isn't air in it. I'd use some vinyl tubing on the barbed nipple couplings to extend them to the outlet and intake lines.

I could start the engine to have the fluid start pumping. I was also thinking of just moving the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off thinking it might still move the fluid through more slowly and controllable.

I do have a hand/pneumatic operated vacuum pump that I could attach to the return line to pull the fluid out while the inlet pulls fresh fluid in. Is there any danger with pulling a small vacuum on the outlet line without the pump running? Damage to seals or something?
 
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