Are you tired of expensive brake jobs?
Want to save $$$ over the next few years.
Want to keep your brakes in tip top condition?
If you answered YES, then this article is required reading:
How To Bed In Brakes
(new cars; after a brake job; pulsating brakes)
I run a fleet; this procedure has saved me thousands of $$$$.
(with thanks to Dave Zeckhausen @ Zeckhausen Racing)
Originally Posted by Northern Rider
From another thread http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=18000 there seems to be some "brake judder" some of us are experiencing at high speeds --
is it possible to "re-bed" the brakes and get them back to normal using the "Bed in" procedure?
As you say, this may save a lot of time and money and frustration.
(I'm surprised that this post hasn't had one reply since originally posted in June -- if this is the answer to my (our) high speed braking issue, thank you for the information, NR)
6.1L HEMI #622 '07 TorRed MSRT8 1/165= TORRED >< 6.1L HEMI '10 Silver Jeep GC SRT8=4X4JETMSRT8 owners http://www.lxforums.com/board/group.php?groupid=24
You can do this procedure any time - not just with new pads.Originally Posted by BragonMyMag
As soon as any of my employees complain about "judder" or "pulsing" or say the words "warped disc", I take the vehicle out to a country road and bed in the brakes.
Warped discs are rare on street cars and are mainly caused by technicians lugging the nuts on with an air wrench with no torque settings.
I have saved thousands of dollars with this basic procedure. And - I enjoy doing it.
Good info, thanks
I'm going to use that procedure this morning... shortly after the MSRT8 arrives.
Still in love with my first wife, and first car ('68 Charger)... Still have the wife!
Just installed new rotors and pads. going to give this a shot. Dont want any steering wheel nonsense again.
Yes holy thread revival i know haha.
I read this helpful thread and re-bedded my brakes last Sat night after work. I noticed that I was getting some shudder when high speed braking recently and she has been smooth ever since... Thanks Patrick!
+1 for the Thread Revival.
Vossen CV3,Trufiber hood,AFE Stage 2 cai, Sidewinder cam, Toona Tune,SRT Headers, MF mids & Corsa Xtreme catback, Tranzformer, 6.1 Pulley & Timing chain, SRT 2pc fascia & Xenon rear lip, Bilstein Shocks SRT Springs, Petty's strut bar, Police sway bars, 3.55 gears w/Quaife, 20% tint, Demolded & Rebadged, 180 tstat, BT catch can, egr delete, shifter & chrome gear cover, T rex 3x chrome grille, TKutz engine cover insert, Eclipse headunit
I tried last night...no improvement at all...actually did the whole routine 2 times...no difference. :(
Dealer checked all the rotors...no run out (well, within acceptable parameters). may have to change pads and try again.
My judder is only when decelerating between 60 and 35 km/h.
My rotors and pads came out of the trash. My buddy Rich Miller complained that his rotors were warped and was replacing with slotted and drilled ones. I put his bad ones on and bedded em. Now they have 65,000+ miles and are still perfect.
FRI Sidewinder cam, Dynatec Headers , BorlaCatback , 93 octane dyno tune, 333rwhp/350 ft lbs, Police Pack Oil Cooler, SRT 8 Struts and Nivo's ,Hotchkis sway bars,B Woody end links, 295,000 miles, 275/40/20 Ventus ST's , -- 05 QC4X4 Hemi Ram and 2001 Arctic Cat 500 ATV Hemi, yup a Hemi . Never Trust a Fart
My breaks were squeaking all the time. I tried this and the squeaking has stopped. Thanks :D
I have always done this with new brakes. Never on used that are experiencing issues. My 2011 Caprice patrol vehicle is having issues. I will try it and see if I cant save the city ANOTHER brake job on this car.
2013 Dodge Charger R/T Road & Track
BT Catch Can* AFE Magnum Force Stage II 5R Intake* Diablosport Intune I-1000 DCX 93 Oct