Long story short....Somehow managed to RUPTURE the Fuel Tank at the Filler Neck at the tank....
I was able to patch it to get it somewhere to work on it...but tank could not be fixed.. it needed to be replaced.
I found a USED tank from a Junk yard that was in NEW condition for $135 and then set out to replace the tank.
I did have the LX Work Manual and it helped quite a bit..
I wanted to pass along this info if anyone ever needed to replace their Fuel Tank for whatever reason!
FYI, this is not the end all be all instructions, LX workshop manual was used alot for this and should be followed also.
Ok...So to start
- T-60 Torx (for Drive Shaft)
- 7mm Nut Driver
- 13mm Wrench/Socket
- 18mm Wrench/Socket
- Other Misc Sockets like 8mm and 10mm (and others I can't remember, but 13mm and 18mm is USED quite a bit)
- Rubber Mallet and Brash Drift (to loosen the Fuel Pump Rings)
- Jack(s) and Jack Stands
- 2 people at LEAST makes things go MUCH easier
Well, That is about it....I am sure I probably left out 1 or 2 little steps, but you should be able to figure it out...
- Remove Neg from Battery (just safe)
- Jack up Rear of car/install jack stands/remove both rear tires.
- Remove Exhaust. Well, you remove MOST of it pretty much. It comes off easy. There are 4 bolts in the rear that hold it on, 2 rubber mounts in the middle and 2 clamps near the front of the car. Once that all is loose/off. the ENTIRE system BACK will come out, including the X-pipe part of it and HUGE collector(not sure what it is) and 2 mufflers/tips on the end. Just pull it out.Simple enough..
- Remove shield..1 on each side of the car and 1 heat shield in the middle below the drive shaft. Again...very simple...
- Remove DriveShaft.. Well, At first, I thought the ENTIRE thing needed to come off, but only the back half did...it has a SLIP JOINT before the carrrier bearing. Use the T-60 and 18mm Wrench to get it off from the rear and you should be able to SLIP it out of the slip joint. (unbolt carrer bearing holding bolts also), It would be good to MARK the alignment also but I believe it only goes in one way. Once you are able to pull it out, set it aside and be carefull with it
- Remove TANK...ok...here is where it gets interesting... before disconnecting ANY lines, you need to make sure the pressure in the lines are GONE...You will need to remove the fuse/relay for the fuel pump and run the car untill it dies (this is from the LX workshop manual). Once that is done, then you are start removing lines. TO access the fuel lines/connectors on the top, remove the back seat and open the flaps..You will see the TOP of the pumps. disconnect the lines, one is the electrical connection on the Driver side and fuel line on passenger side..it would be good idea to use a rag in case any fuel comes out. Now time to loosen up the metal RINGS on the fuel pumps..with the brass drift/mallet you can HIT them very carefully and loosen them...they make a TOOL for this, but could not find it in time and it was $200 but this works too since brass is NON SPARKING metal Once they are loose, you can now PUMP out the fuel from the tanks. I used an old 12V fuel pump that I have to do it, but you can use whatever way you want to. just make sure you pump EACH side out and get most of the fuel out, and dont' LEAK any in the car With that done, put the pumps back in and hand tighten the RINGS so they stay in place. There are other lines under the car that must be disconnected.. 3 on passenger side and 2 on drivers side. The 2 on drivers sides is 1 is the filler neck tube, 7mm NUT driver to loose the clamp and it should pull off, you might have to take part of the inner fender well loose. also on the filler neck there is another connector, it is a quick connect and should be easy to come off. One the passenger side, there is 3, 2 fuel lines and another line. The 2 fuel lines are marked and are quick connects. To get to the other line, you will have to pull back part of the inner fender well and disconnect it. Once all are disconected, time to DROP the tank. There is 4 bolts holding up the tank with the tank straps. Disconnect 2 on passenger side and 2 on drivers side...this is where 2 people are needed for sure or a tranmission jack..Slowly lower pass side of tank and PULL lines thru part of frame. same with drivers side... Now you should have ENTIRE tank out! Congrads!
- Swamping Fuel Pumps/Lines.. With both tanks side by side, you will want to make sure NEW tank is completely clean and free of any water/dirt/gas. Inspect the lines on the NEW tank. you might need to replace some if the lines are CUT, I was able to SAVE the lines from the old tank and put on the new tank, but you might not be able to. Ok, so the Fuel Pumps...they are connected INSIDE the tank to each other,and I don't have good information about HOW to disconnect/reconnect them as it seemed pretty simple to me, you will need to disconnection them from each other and installl them into new tank and reconnect them (I did see QUITE a bit of this in the workshop manaul). it was actally pretty simple and can only go togeather ONE way. With all the lines/pumps swapped over, you can seal up everythig with the RINGS and then get ready to install tank!
- Installing NEW tank...it is pretty much simple...just pull the lines thru the frame again like they came out and bolt back in, nothing changes...connect ALL Lines and electrical connections under back seat.
- Now would be a good time to TEST to make sure it is working OK so you don't have to take everything back off to get to the tank if something is WRONG or leaks...Put Neg back on battery, fill tank with Gas (just 5 gallons is ok, probably what you pumped out of it) and then try to start it....Car should Start good and be VERY LOUD (heheheh no exhuast...oooo sounds good LOL), then shut it off and start reinstalling everything.
- Install DriveShaft, make sure it goes back in the same way
- Install Sheilds, 2 on the sides and 1 heat sheild
- Install Exhaust, again...just like it came out
- Install tires
- Raise car/remove jackstand/lower car.
- Check for any leaks......
- TEST DRIVE
- Check again for leaks.....
All in all, I knew NOTHING about the 300C or the LX Body and if I had to do it again, I could have it out and changed within a few hours, if that...it really isn't that bad at all
Hope this helps someone in the future
Last edited by Big K; 10-15-2008 at 01:53 PM.
Kevin "Big K" Neal
good for you for doing it yourself. i would've given in when you had to pull the driveshaft. that's getting too deep to do in my driveway in my opinion. sure hope you feel a sense of accomplishment after that surgery.
2010 LX&Beyond Nat'ls Best In Show Magnum Daily Driver
2011 LX&Beyond Nat'ls Best In Show Magnum Weekend Driver
2-toned, trufiber srt hood, 22"x9.5" gray Foose Nitrous, colour-matched headlights w/halos, 6000K HIDs (lows/fogs), tinted marker lights, colour-matched fog bezels, tinted tails, Airhammer, Eibach Pro-kit, Predator, Edelbrock headers/cat-back, jba hi-flow cats, 82*C thermostat (180*F), remote start, MDS indicator, Mopar hitch. So far.
Oh yes, Very much so
I just took my time and tried to do it right.
WOW...that is quite the project!!! congrats on completing it...
-RyanCurrent Rides - '15 GC Altitude - White, '15 200S - Black, '93 1500 SB
Past Rides - '05 Magnum RT - 20k SOLD
Thanks for sharing! Hope that I never have to do that!
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Not sure why anyone would EVER need to do this, but figured, if someone did, at least this will give them a headstart on the project
Also, cheaper than messing with insurance or a shop to do it......
Sorry to necro this thread but this will come in handy as I have a slavage magnum with a bad fuel tank. Salvage vehicles have no warranties so I am not covered under the new lifetime fuel tank warranty. Dealer wants to charge approximately $1,000 while it would cost me around $350 to do it myself. I was thinking of letting the dealer do it but figured that I should get an exhaust system and do it myself for nearly the same price.
I had my fuel tank replaced last week. I had a nice slice in the Pas side leading edge of the tank. I remember something flying out from under a truck in front of me when I returned from July 4th weekend in Maine. I jigged to the right so it went under the car ( my only choice ) rather than into my tire, and heard it bounce up under the car a few times. everything seemed fine after that. Then in the following week I kept smelling gas in my garage but could not find a source. I filled the car on the way home one night and the next day I drove my Harley and when I came home I really smelled gas, got off my bike and there was a puddle under the pass side. I actaully temprorily plugged the slit with black RTV,( I know its not gas resistant but its all I had and it worked.
I called Mango Bill and as soon as he pointed out the DS and exhaust have to came out I knew I wasnt doing this on jackstands in my garage. Bill said it would be best to arrive with very little gas in the tank. So I opened the D/S tank. What a PITA to get the ring loose. ( you cannot syphon gas from the fill neck, Mr. check valve and screen prevent this). I happen to have some brass (nonsparking ) drifts which did not work. so I used some chisels and a 1lb mall. Then I syphoned 15 of the 18 gallons out. I filled my wifes BMW and my motorcycles, 2.5 gallons at a time, so no waste there as they all use 93. I only lost the syphon oh, every time I had to stop the flow. I forgot how wonderful gas tastes.
Couple pointers for this part: If you have EVIC you can see how much fuel in liters is in each side of the tank. as I emptied the drivers side the pass remained nearly full, so I put the cover back on and turned the key on, and the pump moved the fuel over to the drivers side. I sat and watched the EVIC as the fuel moved. I found this easier than opening the pass side tank ( see above) . After doing this 3x there was about three gallons left and I had 35 miles to drive. The Evic went nuts Low fuel indicator and the light and the fuel gauge showed competly empty, then it moved up to 1/16th.
Drove the car to Mango bills , stopped ( got a little concerned with the level) and put 5 bucks in the tank, arrived almost on fumes and he hooked me up.
Man you sure can hear the fuel moving with no back seat.
Drove it to work today and I think its faster
Last edited by Rupert; 07-31-2014 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Jeff gives me crap about my typing skills so I fixed it some.
08 R/T LMI TRUE CAI, eagle intake, 6.1 injectors. Modern Muscle Performance Group 87mm Ported TB, big CAM, and ported eagle heads. SLP UD pulley. 6.1 timing set,and lifters, PSI springs custom pushrods, cometic head gaskets, 11:1 comp. American Racing 1 3/4" long tube headers, highflow cats with Magnaflow 3" mufflers, 4" tips., catch can 170 stat. Builder Bill rebuilt tranny, stage 2 valve body, 3500 stall TC, AFI flexplate. Getrag 3.73 MTCM. BC Coilovers. Pistol grip shifter. 417 RWHP, Dyno Tuned by Brent @DTP.
NEW04/6/14: 11.744 @ 117 mph .