That's pretty cool. How does the wiring get routed?
The other day I was surfing eBay looking for decent gearshift lever knobs that I could possibly add control switches to when I came across this unit:
When it arrived, I was able to take it apart:
After some modifications, I added two switches. the one on the front side is a single-pole-double-throw momentary-on switch (3 leads will come off the switch - when the switch is depressed one set of contacts opens and another set closes) that you depress to actuate.
The second side switch is again a single-pole-double-throw, this time rocker actuated (3 leads - ON/ON in this case):
Now this gearshift knob borders on the comical in it's original finish with the translucent side pieces. I prepped and painted the body parts semi-gloss black, but am now torn whether to leave the red translucent side pieces as-is:
To deal with the "thickness" of the knob's base versus the thin gearshift rod (I dislike chrome), I have created a thicker looking stock similer to what i did with the headrest arms:
...on the gearshift rod. however, in this shot I think the translucent red clashes not only with the wood grain but generally looks kinda ricey (please excuse the insult - I am refering to those who take imports and try to make them look/sound like something they are not):
I am considering painting the inside of the lenses black, which would remove most of the red so-to-speak. I also considered painting the inside silver or gold to mimic a candy paint with those colors as the basecoat, but I think it would stand out too much. Or I could paint the exteriors the same semi-gloss black and be done with it.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Addendum: what may you ask are the switches for? Well, the rocker switch could arm NO2, the momentary-ON switch could actuate a line-lock, or temporarily interrupt PWR to the DSS module (this causes the CAN bus to ignore any more I/P's until a key-cycle), or also arm NO2 systems, etc...
Last edited by Hemissary; 10-05-2008 at 05:10 PM.
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I have to figure out what precisely is under the plastic sliding mechanism at the base of the shifter rod. I would much prefer to route the six leads right down the side of the existing shift rod and straight through that sliding plate, then plan/allow for lead placement/movement from Park to Drive.
I have gone over the DCX Parts Manual looking for an exploded view of the gearshift control system (sect. 1210), as well as the Service Manual, but no joy.
Anyone who has ventured further into the floor-mount gearshift control module could post pics of this area, it would be appreciated. I'm trying to find those threads where the Park Lock-out mechanism has failed, seems to me there were some decent pics in that discussion.
If the above does not pan out, I will have to utilize multi-lead coiled/jacketed cabling (similar to telephone cord - but more robust) and come up with a different means of electrical attachement. This route would be much simpler to employ, but it would not look squeeky clean (factory OEM).
Any feedback on the translucent red side pieces??
Last edited by Hemissary; 10-05-2008 at 05:48 PM.
Hemi Mag did a write-up on the BilletTech replacement part, it has some that may help:
How to install your Pink thingy (w/ pics)
Last edited by Junior; 10-05-2008 at 07:42 PM.
I don't want to muck up your thread with a bunch of pictures you may not need, but they're all in this album:
If there's a password, it's probably Junior.
Thanks Junior, beans to you;
Those pics show a void near the base of the shifter rod where the leads can reside without issue. I will be employing super-flexible lead material (silicone jacket and high strand count) to deal with the constant flexing.
Last edited by Hemissary; 10-05-2008 at 09:01 PM.