how do you adjust the tension on the E-brake cable, on an '07 MSRT ??? thanks, jim.
Here ya go...
PARKING BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
While most vehicles require only a fine adjustment of the parking brake shoes, some vehicles may require a preliminary adjustment before a fine adjustment can be made. If a preliminary adjustment must be made, refer to PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT following the fine adjustment procedure listed below.
1. Place parking brake lever in “full released” position.
2. Raise and support vehicle. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure)
3. Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel (1).
NOTE: Through the access hole (2), rotate the adjuster star wheel (1) in the following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum.
4. Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel (1) until wheel will not rotate (dead lock).
- Left brake – Rotate star-wheel toward rear of vehicle.
- Right brake – Rotate star-wheel toward front of vehicle.
5. Back off adjuster six detents (teeth).
6. Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back off adjuster one detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents from wheel lock.
7. Install access plug.
8. Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes.
Using the e-brake on a regular basis is supposed to keep it adjusted too. I do and mine always feels tight and fully functional.
Robert and Alice - Engaged 12/13/2008, NYC Central Park on "Gothic" footbridge, Married 5/19/2012
R.I.P. Dad aka DynoBob
I almost never use my parking brake. Mine doesn't feel like it holds very well either.
Originally Posted by JusticePeteMy Pedders ExperienceOriginally Posted by JusticePete
SRT MAX 112 LSA | Inertia Bg Valve heads | SLP Longtubes | Gutted Cats | SLP LM1 | AFE Stage II | 90mm TB | 25% Underdrive pulley | Mopar TCM | Pro Torque 2800 | Getrag LSD | Inertia CMR tuned | Pedder Track II | 402 rwhp 406 rwtq12.3 @ 112
i would pull the rear rotors and adjust it that way, its the best way. with the star wheel through the backing plate method too many people go the wrong way.
When adjusting you want to pull the rotor off and adjust the star wheel that way and then try putting the rotor on. you want it to grab just a hairand basically have the shoes drag just a bit with you turning the rotor by hand but not dragging when you put the wheel assembly back on and spin it.
"self adjusting" has been a joke since they invented the terminology like 15 year ago. This should still be a part of routine maintenance and the same with clean and adjust on drum brakes.
The main reason this needs to be done on our cars (remember these shoes only work with parking brake) is because people will use the parking brake and roll or try to drive a hair before remembering its engaged which is the number one killer of the brake shoe lining. people not using their e brakes should use them occaisionally just to keep the cables from binding up. the e brake should also be used on inclines over 30 degrees to keep the parking paul from being snapped on the planetary gear in the tranny and giving you that THUD when going from park to drive on a hill. This is a good insurance for a 30 cent part not having to come out the tranny.
Another thing to consider. You live in Kansas. I live in a salt belt state. There's a little thing called rust that develops on metal surfaces, especially on rotors. Happens more frequently in my climates. A rust ridge develops inside of the rotor's hat (park brake's drum) on the outer edge (towards inside rotor surface). This can make removing or installing the rotor harder. Let's say you want to remove the rotor. You have to back it off through the adjuster hole!!! If you don't you stand a chance of seperating the park brake shoe linings from the shoe. Why??? Because the park brake shoe linings are bonded, not riveted to the shoe. Enough bashing, prying, and abuse to the rotor trying to get it off will lead to the linings delaminating. Let's say you're trying to get the adjustment right taking the rotor of each time. You adjust it out some then you try to put the rotor back on and it gets caught on the rust ridge. Same result as removing, linnings could delaminate. If you were putting on new rotors this wouldn't be an issue but you still have to adjust it through the access hole after.
I find it interesting that there's no adjustment identified in the service manual for the cables. Cables do stretch a little over time. I guess they figure the parking brake mechanism takes that up enough when you apply it.
12.217 @ 117 mph on a stock motor
My Station Wagon was faster...
So, Left Side = Driver Side and Right Side = Passenger side?
Just need to lift the rear wheels off the ground, right? When I use the Parking Brake while on an incline, my Magnum still goes back a few inches after I put it in park. On previous cars, the parking brake would not let the car slip. Does this mean I probably need to adjust it?
2006 Magnum R/T AWD - Brilliant Black
Superchips 91 tune, Bassani CB, Mesh Grille, Yakima
2007 Durango Limited 4X4 HEMI - Bright White
Diablosport 91 tune
chock the front wheels before lifting the rear. EDIT: use jack stands. put transmission in neutral, and adjust as per FSM instructions.
to test for proper adjustment; stop on an incline, apply park brake, shift to neutral and release service brakes. the vehicle should hold. perform this procedure everytime you use the park brake to ensure the brake holds the vehicle and not the park pawl.
Last edited by fnkychkn; 09-28-2008 at 08:36 AM. Reason: safety
does reversing work also?