Well, I started installing my paddle shifters last night and made good progress. This morning I went to put it all back together, and they no worky.
Here's what I know:
1) I have continuity tone when activating the switches with the steering wheel on the bench. One lead on the LIN bus ground, and the other on the yellow/blue lead. Both switches work.
2) I have tone from one side of the clockspring to the other. No problem there.
3) I have tone from the 14-pin connector contacts (5 and 6) down to the other end of the harness (at the shifter). I stuck a sewing pin into the contacts, touched a lead to that, and checked at the other end. Good tone on both of them.
4) The only part I couldn't isolate is where the back of the clockspring meets the 14-pin connector. I think the problem has to be there, but once it's on there I can't check it (unless someone can tell me how).
I started the car and put it in D - the auto-stick lever still works as normal, but nothing from the switches. I didn't think to try the other steering wheel controls - I'll do that next.
EDIT: Just checked and none of the steering wheel controls work either. So I think it has to be the connection between the rear of the clockspring and the 14-pin connector.
Any suggestions on how to make sure that connection is seated properly? Maybe I can remove the lower dash again and reach up in there and seat it?
I'll try that.Slowly turn the steering wheel with the engine running. If it clicks it isn't on right.
I connected both (one each side) for the buttons, then the two in the middle of the airbag and the black on the top of the airbag, and the larger white connector at the bottom - with the LIN bus ground.Did you forget to plug the connector back in behind the airbag??? (For the EVIC controls)
So I don't think I missed anything.
I just reached up in from underneath, and as far as I can tell, it's seated well (the 14-pin connector, that is). Is there any kind of reset procedure to get it talking again, or is it just a matter of making all the proper connections?
Last edited by Junior; 08-23-2008 at 04:08 PM.
OK, let me go start her up and check the steering wheel. If nothing seems wrong there, I suppose I'll pull it off and see if I can see a problem at the back of the clockspring, and double-check all the connections.
For grins, and ease of troubleshooting, can I start the car without the airbag installed? Or will that piss HAL off?
Bueno. Thanks man.
Well, I don't know what I did differently, but the clockspring wasn't right - I rotated it with the engine running and I could hear some noise, like wires slapping on something. Not loud, but definitely there.
I pulled it off, put a piece of blue painter's tape on the receiving end of the 14-pin connector, and stuck the clockspring back on there to make sure that the pins were piercing it. They were.
I went further than I needed to, and separated the clockspring from the SCM? like jaak showed in his write-up. Didn't see anything there and I didn't wanna monkey around too much with stuff I didn't understand, so I put it back together.
When I reassembled it, it seemed to fit on there really nicely, and when I set the steering wheel on there, it engaged solidly. THIS IS IMPORTANT: When I had assembled it the three times previously, the steering wheel did not feel like it was solidly engaged to the column until after I tightened the bolt. So if you're doing this, and you get to that point - STOP. It's not right.
Once it was right, though, and the steering wheel engaged the shaft properly, I started it up without even tightening the wheel, and they work great! So I came right in to post this, and now I'm off to button her up.
Thanks for the help, T-bird.
OK, well I just got back from an around-the-block test drive, and they work great!
I did get an ESP/BAS light (both), on two different occasions. The first time I stopped and rebooted the car, and it was still there when it started up, but went away after 100m or so. Then I moved my steering wheel back and forth, and it came back on. Was still there after I pulled into my driveway and rebooted again, and then I put it in reverse then back forward (straight line), and it went away again.
I heard this might happen if you get the clockspring out of alignment, but I'm pretty certain that mine didn't ever go 360*. It did move around some while it was off, but always went back to TDC (so to speak) before doing anything else to it. I haven't gone full lock to full lock yet, maybe it just needs to recalibrate itself?
So I'll see if that clears up. Sometimes I get similar symptoms temporarily when I pull the sensors off, inside the wheelwell...
OK, the ESP/BAS stuff went away after I did a full-lock to full-lock procedure, and then drove it around a bit - I don't know if my little procedure had anything at all to do with it, but it's all clear now.
I kinda wish the paddles were a little further outboard - they're a bit further inside than I'd rather them be, but I think there's nothing to do about that, because of the shape of the internal structure of the wheel...
I got this on my Crackberry and could not get to it to help but you were in good hands, I am glad it worked out.
You will like the paddles that far inward, they would get in the way otherwise. I have short stubby fingers but mine are perfect, it took some getting use to.
2006 Charger R/T R&T - Ordered 9-06-05- Home 12-23-05 - Mods: SRT Hood, 180 Degree Thermostat, JBA Shorties, High FLow Cats, SRT Suspension, AFE Stage II CAI, ---Painted Half covers --- AMG Paddles--Jaak Hack direct wire--PLCMAN Line-Lock board SLP Line Lock ---email@example.com
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if you search DaddyGoFast threads he posted a step by step on how to do this mod good luck my friend .. or send him a pm !!