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  1. #1
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    Help with PWR Cam and head questions

    So as stated in a previous thread I am going to start modding my 6.1 magnum. Currently in the classified section there are pwr mean street heads ($1500)and a pwr cam ($350) available.

    The cam has a Custom pwr cam, 223/231 625/622 113 grind. Can some of you who know more than myself help tell me about this cam. Driving characteristics? I figure heads alone would be a great upgrade but would the best gains be had by combining with this cam or should I look another route for cam? Have thought about the srt max but I have def read that it is not ideal for a FI application and that is in my future for sure.

    I understand pwr is out of business and there is just a little about their products floating on the web. I see pwr parts in peoples signatures. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. I want to do a whipple supercharger this fall/winter when the magnum hibernates away from the snow. The owner of the cam said it was a NA grind which I understand what that means. Will I have compatibility issues down the line with the supercharger?
    Thanks in advance! Cheers
    2007 MSRT8- 180 tstat, afe cai , high flow exhaust, Trinity tuner, strut tower brace and bt catch can......... in Denver at a mile high



  2. #2
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    Hey if you looking for a cam for a FI build, I have 2 left over that I never installed. I would let either of them go for a good price. both are for FI or nitrous builds.





    375.00 plus shipping for either.

  3. #3
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    That cam looks made for a stroker application and no friendly for stock displacement

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    2008 Magnum BB R/T Hemi Registry # 1584 PPP Stage 2 Cam, JBA Shorty Headers, JBA High Flow cats, Heartthrob Exhaust, Eagle Intake, LMI Intake, MTCM, Blue Tops, ProTorque Converter, SRT Rear, Techo Strut Brace, lowered, Tuned by Diablotoona SOLD--2005 Mineral Gray AWD Hemi Registry # 1154

    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    For the work being performed, length is far more important than diameter :^)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gdragich View Post
    That cam looks made for a stroker application and no friendly for stock displacement

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    Are you refering to the one I asked about or the pics Pandora posted?

  5. #5
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    The pics I posted were for my aluminum 426 stroked build....forgot about that, thanks for pointing that out.

  6. #6
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    ..
    Last edited by Gdragich; 06-18-2017 at 03:44 PM.

  7. #7
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    I'm the person with the PWR parts. The cam and heads were specifically designed for the 6.1. It has a noticeable lope to it and can be run without headers and a converter. it was custom ground by Andy (Lunati) when PWR was the go to guy. with a stock shortblock, headers and a 90mm throttle body it ran 12:40s all day long and 11:60s with a shot of nitrous in a jeep grand Cherokee on factory run flats. obviously would be quicker in a 1000 pound lighter sedan. I do not want to push your decision either way. it is not a grind intended to maximize a forced induction set-up. To obtain the max-out of a FI's, capability you need a forged shortblock and Thitecks plus several ancillary parts.

    Hope this helps. this cam with a Forced induction set up creates additional torque that create traction issues. Now if you run drag radials......
    2006 Black GCSRT8, R1s d/s, BilletTech. Catch can, Bwoodys end links, Demon Perf. adjustable panhard bar, Eibachs, PWR cam, mean street heads, Arrington throttle body, kooks headers and cats, paramount , Demon fuel rails, ATI 5% OD dampner and more soon....

  8. #8
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    Thanks for chiming in. I've literally searched and read everything I can in the last few days to educate myself. Would a converter help or is it totally not needed? I have been looking at converters as well. Thinking a 3200 rpm? Anyway, the head and cam you have can be installed on a stock 6.1 without having to change any other internals on the engine correct? I get my insurance check this week and have a need for more power. Thanks again
    Quote Originally Posted by baja272 View Post
    I'm the person with the PWR parts. The cam and heads were specifically designed for the 6.1. It has a noticeable lope to it and can be run without headers and a converter. it was custom ground by Andy (Lunati) when PWR was the go to guy. with a stock shortblock, headers and a 90mm throttle body it ran 12:40s all day long and 11:60s with a shot of nitrous in a jeep grand Cherokee on factory run flats. obviously would be quicker in a 1000 pound lighter sedan. I do not want to push your decision either way. it is not a grind intended to maximize a forced induction set-up. To obtain the max-out of a FI's, capability you need a forged shortblock and Thitecks plus several ancillary parts.

    Hope this helps. this cam with a Forced induction set up creates additional torque that create traction issues. Now if you run drag radials......

  9. #9
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    Correct about the 6.1 fit. A converter will help for sure, but is not required. I would suggest contacting Bill at paramount for the best converter setup based on your current and future desires.

  10. #10
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    <br>


  11. #11
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    I'm just gonna say that 223/231 duration and 625/622 lift on 113 LSA is a pretty stout cam and I am unaware of anyone making an over 600 lift cam with extended duration work on a stock 6.1. The cam card specs might be using some different rocker ratio for lift numbers to be high, but the duration is leaving the valve open too long for a stock shortblock. Anything beyond 220 duration on intake for a 6.1 is risking PTV issues even with cam lift in the mid .500's, but maybe I'm wrong since I'm not an engineer of anything.

    From Inertia on the SRT Max--Max meaning maximum for stock 6.1 to safely run and I'd rather be safe than buying a new engine. This from a vendor with years experience:
    The specs of the SRT Max cam are: 218/222 duration @ 0.050" valve lift 112 Lobe seperation angle (LSA) and 0.566/0.556" lift. The SRT Max Hell has the same duration and LSA but the lift is increased on the exhaust to 0.566/0.578".
    This cam is designed to take maximium advantage of the 6.1 hemi within the limits of it's valve to piston and retainer to valve seal requirements.

  12. #12
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    I'm pretty convinced on the heads. In fact I think I'm gonna pull the trigger but your last post (gdragich) scares me a bit. So you are saying this cam will not work well with my stock bottom end? Now I'm second guessing myself

  13. #13
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    Post

    Well, simply stated your wrong. if your knowledge is based on internet trolling, you just showed your ignorance. you obviously are a poser with limited knowledge....I will extend a money back offer to the OP. That having being said, you are the reason I avoid these forums. Instead OF BEING A NAY SAYER, LISTEN AND LEARN
    Quote Originally Posted by Gdragich View Post
    I'm just gonna say that 223/231 duration and 625/622 lift on 113 LSA is a pretty stout cam and I am unaware of anyone making an over 600 lift cam with extended duration work on a stock 6.1. The cam card specs might be using some different rocker ratio for lift numbers to be high, but the duration is leaving the valve open too long for a stock shortblock. Anything beyond 220 duration on intake for a 6.1 is risking PTV issues even with cam lift in the mid .500's, but maybe I'm wrong since I'm not an engineer of anything.

    From Inertia on the SRT Max--Max meaning maximum for stock 6.1 to safely run and I'd rather be safe than buying a new engine. This from a vendor with years experience:
    The specs of the SRT Max cam are: 218/222 duration @ 0.050" valve lift 112 Lobe seperation angle (LSA) and 0.566/0.556" lift. The SRT Max Hell has the same duration and LSA but the lift is increased on the exhaust to 0.566/0.578".
    This cam is designed to take maximium advantage of the 6.1 hemi within the limits of it's valve to piston and retainer to valve seal requirements.

  14. #14
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    Sorry snowman, Ive been racing since 1979, made my mistakes and learned the `true inner workings of an engine. If in doubt, do not purchase from me (no harm/no foul) and follow the jerk nuts opinion. Only a few people know the limits of the vehicles they drive. I will be glad to help with any information you need, But my tolerance for ignorance like the previous poster is nill.

  15. #15
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    Yup, you know your stuff alright
    HELP after new cam, heads, throttle, body, intake...

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

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