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  1. #1
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    Jul 2015
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    Need new front end parts-how far should I go?

    Hi all, I changed the oil on my 2005 300 last night. While I was under there, I inspected the front end components like usual and noticed that the right side inner tie rod has play in it and needs to be replaced. It's on the original front end with 66k miles on the car. I've learned in the past that just replacing only the bad one isn't the best course of action. Usually the other tie rod ends will fail shortly after one by one causing extra headaches and more lost money on extra alignments. I still want to keep this car a long time and do the job right. So at a minimum, I will be replacing all 4 tie rod ends with high quality replacements like Moog problem saver line. With that being said, do you guys have recommendations based on experience what brand of front end parts are best for these cars? Also at this mileage is there anything else under there that I should worry about failing soon and should possibly replace? (sway bar end links, ball joints etc) The front end still feels very solid over bumps and such with no clunks or rattles. Thanks for any input guys .
    Last edited by nicktylermo; 01-20-2017 at 11:00 AM.
    2005 Chrysler 300 Limited - 70,000 miles. Bone stock except for window tint 35% front 20% rear



  2. #2
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    Apr 2016
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    The sway bar links are cheap. I would do those at the same time.

  3. #3
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    I jacked up the front end again last night to take a closer look at the front end after doing reading on here. The sway bar links are still tight and look good (although I'm not sure how much life would be left in them according to what I've read on here). However, I did notice that on both sides, there are cracks in the bushings of the strut brace arms. So I guess those need to be replaced as well?

  4. #4
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    Apr 2016
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    Yep, mine had the cracks, you can replace the bushings with upgraded ones. Or the complete control arms.

  5. #5
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    So on Sunday, I got around to replacing all tie rod ends (outer and inner) and both tension strut arms. I had it aligned Monday morning and the car drove perfect and felt like brand new...for 3 days. Today I now have a slight clunk in the passenger side front end. Up until this point, I have never had the dreaded lx front clunks of any kind. I cannot seem to find it anywhere. Everything under there appears tight and solid. I initially thought maybe I stressed the lower ball joint somehow but I can't get any side movement out of it and the boot on it is still good/sealed etc. Besides the parts I listed above with rotors and pads in addition to, all the other front end parts are original. The only thing I could see as being the possible culprit is the sway bar end link. I can't get any side to side play out of the joints on them, but they are easily turned/moved by hand. So would it be safe to say replacing the sway bar bushings and end-links would be the next logical step? Forgive me if this seems obvious, but I hate spending money on parts if they don't wind up resolving the issue and I know you guys are the experts!

  6. #6
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    Jul 2015
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    Well I spent more time under the car. I bought new sway bar bushings and installed them since they were cheap. I used moogs I got from oreilly's. I also used a digital caliper to measure the size of the swaybar to make sure I got the right ones which it is the 25mm or 1in one. I noticed no change with the clunk/rattle after replacing them. I really can't find play in the swaybar links/control arms/ball joints at all still even when rocking the car or bumping them etc. Only thing I did find is that there still could be possibly some funky play on the passenger side of the steering rack. I took the bellows boot off on that side and the new inner tie rod is still firm but it's as if maybe the slide rack inside may have play on that side? I'm at a loss and quite discouraged. Especially if this means I should have bought a new rack instead of wasting time/money with inner tie rods. Oh well...either way I feel confident in the car being safe and will just have to deal with the annoyance of the clunk/rattle and tackle it another day.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    San Antonio, TX
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    While i have a 2011 charger, I'll assume the front ends are at least similar.

    I too have front end clunks. Haven't been under the car to take a look yet, so I'll be following this thread to see if you're able to find anything...
    '11 Charger R/T, R&T, Super Track Pak

    Air Force -- Above All

  8. #8
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    Jul 2015
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    Ok guys, so I'm 90% sure I found the problem finally. I noticed last night that if I was pressing the brakes over bumps, the clunk/rattle went away. Just went to check and the caliper on the passenger side has a lot of side to side play and I can replicate the clunk if I shake it. So looks like I need a new caliper carrier/mount bracket and slide pins. I'll order the parts and post back here when I put them on.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2009
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    Been through all this on my 05' as well. Changed out the tension struts about 5 years ago and still clunked. Recently replaced the inner and outer tie rods, they were worn and loose. Still clunked. Yesterday I replaced the sway bar bushings. Finally No More clunk!! One other item pointed out in the beginning was checking the lower end of the electronic module mounted on the passenger side firewall. A rubber nub has a tendency to thump against the firewall. Mine was doing so way back when. Then the louder clunking started.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the tip on the pcm possible rattle. I'll have to check that out.

  11. #11
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    So it looks as though the pcm could rattle a little on that rubber nub you were talking about Oblit. I bent the bracket it's mounted on to push it firmly against the rubber nub and it can no longer be rattled. However this made no difference to my noise. I also got the caliper brackets and new pins in today. Sadly one of the boxes just had a used bracket with a stuck pin in it instead of a new remanned one (I was going to do both sides as there's play in the one on the driver's side also). So after that, I proceeded to replace the caliper bracket and pins on just the passenger side where the noise is. The caliper and pads are now firmly in place with no play. I took it for a test drive and the clunk/rattle seems to be better/less apparent, but it isn't gone. (Noise still on passenger side, driver's side feels/sounds solid as a rock on bumps). And it still goes completely away if I drag the brakes. So at this point, I'm really not sure what else to do.

  12. #12
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    Went ahead and replaced the sway bar end links as well. Got done with that tonight and went for a test drive. The noise is 80% gone but still there unfortunately. At least now it's tolerable and doesn't sound quite like something is going to fall apart on bumps anymore.

  13. #13
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    I found that loosening and re-torquing the bolts on the top cross bar helped me. I went tight with a 3/8 ratchet. I had the square bar off when I swapped the motor. No more clunk for me 29K miles.
    Adaptive Craving Control-by Hal9000 modification strictly prohibited
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  14. #14
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    Get an auto stethoscope and try jacking up the car just enough to get a Pry bar under the tire with a block of wood for leverage under the Pry bar, then have some one pry up on the tire as you listen to the lower ball joints and the ball joints of the upper control arms.. I bet its the upper control arm ball joints..

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Yup. Wiggly little pads right front. See it all the time.

    However, you wear them down enough the rattle stops (Yikes). Need a brake job.

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