Let me begin by saying that this is in no way a substitute for the GSM Mod.
They are two different things.
This is the Fuse#17 Remote Switch Mod !
This mod will give you back Self-Handling Control of your car, like it was in the Good Ol' Days when you could spin your car around in an empty parking lot, do a doughnut or a figure eight to teach yourself how your car will handle when you lose control due to bad road conditions. Remember when you did your first Drifting around a tight corner, FUN and exciting wasn't it. I know, for me,
it got that adrenaline pumping and I liked it !
By reading the LXForums I've learned from all of you that if you pull Fuse #17 you can burn more rubber, something essential for doing the trick maneuvers on wet or dry roads. With some experimenting I have found that you can have your cake and eat it too.
Fuse #17 is always hot. Meaning, you don't have to do an Ing.Key Cycle (off again/on again) to activate it. If you can open and close Fuse #17 while you drive you can have all the benefits of ABS, ESP/BAS (Torque Control) when you need them and all the fun of controlling the car yourself when you open the Fuse #17 circuit.
I've taken some photos of installing an ON/OFF switch for Fuse #17. It's really not too complicated to install. Remember, this is the way I did it. You can do it any way you want, just don't use substandard materials. You don't want to induce a lot of resistance into this circuit. It's a 30 AMP Fused Circuit.
I started with two 8ft. coils of 10ga stranded (for flexibility) wire.
Eight feet wire length will only allow you to reach the area where I mounted
the On/Off switch. If you want to come across to the center console area
you will need to enter the firewall from the motor area on the Passenger side or use longer wires.
One 30amp.DC (automobile type) switch from Radio Shack, they have several you can choose from.
Some 1/4in Heat Shrink Tubing (1 ft will cover all you need).
Four female spade lugs to fit the fusebox fuse#17 socket (2) and your new 30amp switch (2).
Two male spade lugs to fit into the bottom of the Fuse #17 itself.
A few Black Nylon ties to keep the loom away from bad areas.
A 10ft piece of 3/8inID Black Wire Loom (auto parts store).
(about 7ft in engine compartment and about 2ft under dash)
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How the fuse box should look after the installation (TOP VIEW)
Notice the two nylon ties keeping the wire between the two relays
as it exits the fusebox.
(Side View) Notice how the Male and Female connectors are positioned.
You can also see here which lug is the hot one (RED).
Fuse with wires connected unplugged from the fusebox.
Notice how easy it would be to unplug the fuse and plug it
back into the fusebox restoring it back to normal if you need
factory service.
Don't make too big a notch in the fusebox cover,
remember you want it to remain waterproof.
How the fusebox looks closed. Black electrical tape around the
loom at the fusebox notch will make a nice tight seal.
I ran the wires toward the back of the motor area to the firewall
on the passenger side, then across the firewall to the driver's
side and went through the firewall using the same rubber grommet
that the Hood Release cable comes through. Use some nylon ties to
keep the wire loom from resting on the motor or anything that
could melt it. I ran the wires first then installed the
Black Wire Loom last.


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