Rear Strut Brace Install On Magnum

[EPIC SRT]

Well, the install is complete! Here is the final look!



Tools I used:
Masking Tape
Tape Measure
Writing Utensil
10mm Socket
17mm Socket
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Utility Knife
Phillips Screwdriver
2” Hole Saw
Reciprocating Saw
File
Door Panel Removal Tool

If I forgot anything I will add it later.

Believe it or not, the install is pretty straight forward. Start with the tear down, making sure to take your time to locate all the screws that must be removed.

It does make the job easier if you remove ALL the interior rear panels. The one overhead panel and the side panels above the quarter window are only held in by clips, so use gentle tugging to remove.

To remove the interior quarter panels you will need to remove the rear speaker covers, the seat belt at its anchor point (19mm), and the cushion on each side of the rear seat back.

Be careful when removing the side cushions. They are held in place by a bolt at the bottom (10mm) and a metal clip. Once the bolt is removed, grab the top of cushion to make a narrow gap (DO NOT FORCE IT), then use your finger or a screw driver inserted from the side to push the top of the metal tab down far enough to pull the cushion away from the body. See picture below of the clip.



Before I removed the screws from the side panels I placed some masking tape as pictured, 12 inches apart on the vertical and about 4 inches apart on the horizontal. I then put tape on the body so I would know where the panels line back up in relation to the body and the brace.



After the interior side panels are removed, remove the insulation covering the mount area. Be careful as these insulators are molded but it is still possible to tear them (I know, because I did). Each one has a Christmas tree fastener holding it on. This is where the door panel removal tool comes in handy.





After the insulation is removed, install the cross brace as the directions that came with it indicate!



Reassembly is the FUN part!
Probably the best advice I can give for this part is to do one side at a time. The reason for this is so you can learn from your mistakes (if you make any).

Start with installing the insulation. You will have to use your best judgment on where to cut. You can use pictures as a guide. I started with the top cut first, then the bottom, then a cut from top to bottom. Think of an “H” lying on its side. Then I cut all the way to the bottom of the insulation.



Kind of hard to explain, but it should be more apparent when actually doing the install.
After measuring and re-measuring several times I took the plunge and using the 2” hole saw, made a hole. To get the top and bottom measurement, I measured inside the car to the top of the forward cross bar and then the panel. For the side to side measurement, that is where the vertical strips of come in handy.



I really wish I could provide more guidance on this, but you need to measure everything to make sure you get it right. It is not that hard, but you have to take it slow and measure 5 times before you cut once! The attached pictures should serve as a guide.

The reason for the 2” hole is because I wanted to make sure I had enough room to get panel back in place.

After the holes were drilled I used the reciprocating saw to cut a vertical line from the bottom of each hole, down to the bottom of the panel. To test fit panel I place in vehicle with the interior of panel facing up, worked the panel over the brace, then test the fitment with the holes cut. As you may be able to tell in one or two of the photos, one of the panels holes are slightly more off then the other side.





I did use some pipe insulation to fill the gaps left around the cross brace.
After making sure each side fit properly, I reinstalled everything in reverse order.

For those that want to know how much room is between the brace and floor it is about 4 inches.

For those with the kicker subwoofer, the distance from the back of the seat to the forward crossbar is about 8 inches.

Total time spent from start of tear down to completion of reassembly was about 6 hours. It could probably be done faster, but I wanted to be sure I limited the damage done to the panels as they are probably pretty expensive to replace if you mess up.

Feel free to post up with any questions or anything I can elaborate on.

[EPIC SRT]

Figured I would give this a bump since I had some questions about it recently!

[EPIC SRT]

The Kicker Sub does not fit with the RE Rear Strut Brace.

For me, I just decided to re-position the box and secure it to the brace.

A local car audio place has a box that will work for about $125-$150 but I figured I would wait until I get annoyed by its current position. Here are some pics:

[EPIC SRT]

Well, since the factory box was getting a little annoying real quick with how much room it takes up and that it wouldn’t fit with the rear strut brace, I had a box made today. A little smaller, but it is sealed, has poly-fill, and produces better bass than the factory box (IMO)!

Here’s some pics:

[rance]

So was it worth it?

[Galvatron]

nice setup! i really want that rear brace on my Chally....looks great, bro!

[CT-MSRT]

so was it worth it?

x2??

[EPIC SRT]

I think it was! As far as I know, I am the only Magnum owner out there with one of these installed and it provides the same benefits as it does for other LX's- feeling more solid around corners. I still plan on making it removable, once done I will buy new panels so there will only be holes in the panels instead of the holds with the added line cut.

I still need to get to an open area so I can push the speed and turning radius. I am affraid to break loose on city streets and wipe out. I want to push it to the point where I break traction! Not sure what stock Magnums are capable of, but so far I been able to take a left turn (about 80 degrees) off a freeway off ramp, cutting the corner a little, at 50 mph and it feels like I am on rails. I am affraid to go any faster. And don't think I wasn't sucking foam!

It's overall worth is dependent on the individual: if you drive it like you stole it or like taking corners fast, it should be an improvement over stock; if your driving miss daisy, probably not worth the time on a Magnum; if you are in the middle then get the front RE bar and upgrade your rear sway bar and that should probably get you some good results (IMO).

As for me, I have also added the Hotchkis front and rear sways and the BWoody sway links. Everything combined has tightened up the handling.

[philnhemi]

great post did a similiar job to my nissan spec v back in the day...

Well, the install is complete! Here is the final look!



Tools I used:
Masking Tape
Tape Measure
Writing Utensil
10mm Socket
17mm Socket
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Utility Knife
Phillips Screwdriver
2” Hole Saw
Reciprocating Saw
File
Door Panel Removal Tool

If I forgot anything I will add it later.

Believe it or not, the install is pretty straight forward. Start with the tear down, making sure to take your time to locate all the screws that must be removed.

It does make the job easier if you remove ALL the interior rear panels. The one overhead panel and the side panels above the quarter window are only held in by clips, so use gentle tugging to remove.

To remove the interior quarter panels you will need to remove the rear speaker covers, the seat belt at its anchor point (19mm), and the cushion on each side of the rear seat back.

Be careful when removing the side cushions. They are held in place by a bolt at the bottom (10mm) and a metal clip. Once the bolt is removed, grab the top of cushion to make a narrow gap (DO NOT FORCE IT), then use your finger or a screw driver inserted from the side to push the top of the metal tab down far enough to pull the cushion away from the body. See picture below of the clip.



Before I removed the screws from the side panels I placed some masking tape as pictured, 12 inches apart on the vertical and about 4 inches apart on the horizontal. I then put tape on the body so I would know where the panels line back up in relation to the body and the brace.



After the interior side panels are removed, remove the insulation covering the mount area. Be careful as these insulators are molded but it is still possible to tear them (I know, because I did). Each one has a Christmas tree fastener holding it on. This is where the door panel removal tool comes in handy.





After the insulation is removed, install the cross brace as the directions that came with it indicate!



Reassembly is the FUN part!
Probably the best advice I can give for this part is to do one side at a time. The reason for this is so you can learn from your mistakes (if you make any).

Start with installing the insulation. You will have to use your best judgment on where to cut. You can use pictures as a guide. I started with the top cut first, then the bottom, then a cut from top to bottom. Think of an “H” lying on its side. Then I cut all the way to the bottom of the insulation.



Kind of hard to explain, but it should be more apparent when actually doing the install.
After measuring and re-measuring several times I took the plunge and using the 2” hole saw, made a hole. To get the top and bottom measurement, I measured inside the car to the top of the forward cross bar and then the panel. For the side to side measurement, that is where the vertical strips of come in handy.



I really wish I could provide more guidance on this, but you need to measure everything to make sure you get it right. It is not that hard, but you have to take it slow and measure 5 times before you cut once! The attached pictures should serve as a guide.

The reason for the 2” hole is because I wanted to make sure I had enough room to get panel back in place.

After the holes were drilled I used the reciprocating saw to cut a vertical line from the bottom of each hole, down to the bottom of the panel. To test fit panel I place in vehicle with the interior of panel facing up, worked the panel over the brace, then test the fitment with the holes cut. As you may be able to tell in one or two of the photos, one of the panels holes are slightly more off then the other side.





I did use some pipe insulation to fill the gaps left around the cross brace.
After making sure each side fit properly, I reinstalled everything in reverse order.

For those that want to know how much room is between the brace and floor it is about 4 inches.

For those with the kicker subwoofer, the distance from the back of the seat to the forward crossbar is about 8 inches.

Total time spent from start of tear down to completion of reassembly was about 6 hours. It could probably be done faster, but I wanted to be sure I limited the damage done to the panels as they are probably pretty expensive to replace if you mess up.

Feel free to post up with any questions or anything I can elaborate on.

[So*Cal Mag]

interesting
do feel a diffrence in handling with this brace??

[torquelover]

Any road noise transmitted into the car by this?

[D&D's SXT]

Well, I just did the front strut brace (the Mopar version) and it was quick and easy. Unfortunatly my first test was driving it was on pure ice for six miles to to the interstate and she was fine as long as I just kept moving. I now have noticed better turn in "or grip" and am not dis pleased at all with this addition to my vehicle. I do want the rear bars but I want the center braces first. Thanks for the post.