Hyperground - How-to

[richierevs]

Overview

The following posts describe the materials, tools, and procedures for installing a Hyperground. Other posts within this thread will include details (pictures and instructions). The instructions herein are specfic to an SRT8, but can be adapted to other LX models.

Skill Level (Moderate)

Familarity with Butane or MAP gas torches for soldering cables and connectors.

Work Time

Allocate at least 1 hour.

Application Benefits*

Improve throttle response, reduce throttle lag, improve air/fuel mixture burn.

A Hyperground (HG) provides additional electrical connectivity and high-voltage flow between the HEI system, Heads, Ingnition Coils, Spark Plugs, Chassis Ground, and Battery.

The HG does not change the stock ground cables at the bottom of the engine block.

Maximizing Benefits



For maximum benefit:

• HG requires 0/2 AWG and 4 AWG fine-strand braided copper audio cable. Battery cable has been tested and does not provide the same benefit. Fine-strand braided copper audio cable can be purchased in bulk from www.partsexpress.com Pre-made Hyperground cables can be purchased on-line. Perform a Google search on "Hyperground". However, the pre-made kits do not include all necessary cables; so some cables will need to be custom made, particularly the cable to connect to the battery in the trunk to the chassis ground, and the cable to connect the Alternator Support Harness to the Passenger-Side Head.
• Cable connectors should be either copper (recommended) or aluminium. Connectors can be purchased from NAPA, or equivalent auto supply retailer.
• Cable connectors must be soldered. Crimping has been tested and provides little benefit.
• Use 8mm - 1.25mm stainless steel bolts with lock washers to connect cables to the front of the heads.

Safety: Important

• DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE (-) GROUND BEFORE BEGINNING THE CABLE INSTALLATION
• WEAR SAFETY GOOGLES
• USE GOOD LEATHER/CLOTH SHOP GLOVES
• TURN TORCH OFF WHEN NOT IN USE

* The benefits of a Hyperground (HG) are still being tested. It is important to understand that a HG is not designed to increase HP and TQ but to provide additional electrical ground so that the engine can deliver its optimum power. Additionally, electrical ground is but one factor that contributes to optimum engine power. Other engine/electrical issues may be present that may cause a loss of power.

[richierevs]

The following tools are recommended:

• Bench vise
• Cable cutters
• Butane or MAP gas torch
• Rosin core solder (medium thickness)
• Knife or box cutter
• Electrical tape or wire shrink wrap
• Metric wrench or socket

The following materials are required:

• 1 - 8mm - 1.25mm x 18mm stainless bolt - coarse thread
• 1 - 8mm - 1.25mm x 12mm stainless bolt - coarse thread
• 2 - 8mm stainless lock washers
• 1 - 36" x 3/4" split loom head shield
• 3 - 36" 4 AWG fine-strand braided copper audio power cable
• 1 - 12" 0/2 AWG fine-strand braided copper audio power cable
• 1 - 18" 0/2 AWG fine-strand braided copper audio power cable
• 4 - 0/2 AWG copper (recommended) or aluminum connectors
• 6 - 4 AWG copper (recommended) or aluminum connectors

The following provides an overview for soldering cable connectors:





Tip: Before installation, pre-measure and label cables; and solder all connectors.

1. Gather cables, connectors, torch, solder, knife or box cutter.
2. Cut approx. 3/4" insulation from both ends of the 0/2 AWG cables; cut approx. 5/8" insulation from both ends of the 4 AWG cables. Be careful not to cut the copper wire braiding.
3. Beginning with the 0/2 AWG cables and repeat for the 4 AWG cables.
4. Place connector in bench vise, with the end to receive the cable upward. Tip: Place connector so excess overflow solder won't drop on vise.
5. Use torch to evenly heat connector, testing the inside of connector with solder to determine when the connector is hot enough to melt the solder. When the melting temperature is reached, fill the connector end approx. 3/4 way with solder.
6. If using heat shrink, slide heat shrink onto cable before soldering to connector.
7. Evenly reheat connector (now containing solder), when the solder mass is liquid, push cable end into the connector (some solder overflow is normal). When fully inserted, turn off torch, and hold cable in place until it begins to harden. Tip: Have a small can of water nearby to quickly cool your work before handling with bare hands. Without water cooling the connector will stay hot a long time.
8. Repeat Steps 4 -7 each side of cable.
9. Repeat Steps 4 - 8 for all cables.
10. Once cables and connectors are cool, afix heat shrink or use electrical tape to cover cable and connector joint.

[richierevs]

Attached pics:

Copper connectors

[richierevs]

Attached are the following installation pics:

1. Passenger-side Fender Ground
2. Passenger-side Head Connection

The passenger side head connection intersects 3 cables:

• Passenger-side Fendor Ground.
• Alternator to Head Cable - connector will need to be bent 90 degrees to fit properly. Be careful not to overbend the connector, copper easily breaks.
• Passenger-side to Driver-side Head Cable.
• Attach cables to Passenger-side Head using 10mm - 1.25mm x 18mm stainless steel bolt and lock washer. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN!! DO NOT CROSS-THREAD!!

Tip: Place cables, but save this connection (bolt installation) for last to make installation easier. Remove oil catch-can for ease of access.

[richierevs]

Attached are the following pics:

1. Alternator to Head Connection
2. Alternator Support Harness Connection

Tip: Remove oil catch-can for ease of access.




The Alternator Cable is short 0/2 AWG cable.
Tip: Leave this cable attachment for last to make installation easier. When installation attach the top (3 cable intersection) first, then do the bottom. Remove oil catch-can for ease of access.

[richierevs]

Attached are the following pics:

1. Driver-side Head Connection

The Driver-sider Head Connection intersects to cables:

• Passenger-side Head to Driver-side Head Cable
• Driver-side Head to Driver-sider Fender Ground Cable (not shown, same as Passenger-side Fender Ground Connection)
• Use a 10mm - 1.25mm x 12mm stainless bolt and washer to attach cables to the head. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! DO NOT CROSS-THREAD!

Tip: When installing the head-to-head cable snake cable through the split loom heat shield before installing. The cable with heat shield is installed under the intake manifold.

[richierevs]

Remove the stock 6 AWG ground wire from the battery connection harness and the chassis ground.

Install 18" 0/2 AWG ground wire to the battery connection harness. An additional washer may be needed to properly ground the cable to the chassis ground.

Recheck all connections before reconnecting battery!

[ginuwine]

what are the gains of doing this??

[CHARGERTREV]

what are the gains of doing this??

Just read

"Application Benefits

Improve throttle response, reduce throttle lag, improve air/fuel mixture burn.

A Hyperground (HG) provides additional electrical connectivity and high-voltage flow between the HEI system, Heads, Ingnition Coils, Spark Plugs, Chassis Ground, and Battery.

The HG does not change the stock ground cables at the bottom of the engine block."

[Mymopar]

Interesting. I installed a "kit" on my brothers Mazda but never even thought to do it for my car. Perhaps sometime soon, thanks for posting!

[Super T]

A lot of that is wholly unnecessary... No reason to cross-connect the heads, for example... they're bolted to the same iron block and have two tiny little sensors grounding to them. Upgrading the "big 3" in this manner is definitely beneficial, but beyond that, I'm highly skeptical there are any benefits to be gained, unless you own copper futures.

[richierevs]

A lot of that is wholly unnecessary... No reason to cross-connect the heads, for example... they're bolted to the same iron block and have two tiny little sensors grounding to them. Upgrading the "big 3" in this manner is definitely beneficial, but beyond that, I'm highly skeptical there are any benefits to be gained, unless you own copper futures.

We've gone back and forth on this topic. The issue is one of resistance or impedence going through difference metals. An electrical spark, like lightening or car ignition, will follow the path of least resistance to complete a circuit. The closer the ground is to the source the better the connection, that means grounding the heads. BTW, copper and aluminum are better conductors of electricity then iron. We can argue the benefits of fine strand vs. thick strand copper wire, but the laws of physics don't change whether you're talking car ignition, arc-welding, or lightening. Either you understand (intuitively or otherwise) the electromagnetic principles or you don't. It's that simple.

[Carfinish]

Richie....your car was at Shippan Auto correct... I think I recall seeing it with cables installed...so are you noticing the benefits??....stop by one day...I work in the building behind the Springdale train station...we'll chat

[richierevs]

Richie....your car was at Shippan Auto correct... I think I recall seeing it with cables installed...so are you noticing the benefits??....stop by one day...I work in the building behind the Springdale train station...we'll chat

Yes, Tony's worked on my car. After nine months and 10K+ miles since I changed my spark plugs, the spark plugs still look almost brand new--no deposits. I probably should have posted a pic of them, but I figured who'd care. I'll send you a PM with my contact info.

[Super T]

We've gone back and forth on this topic. The issue is one of resistance or impedence going through difference metals. An electrical spark, like lightening or car ignition, will follow the path of least resistance to complete a circuit. The closer the ground is to the source the better the connection, that means grounding the heads. BTW, copper and aluminum are better conductors of electricity then iron. We can argue the benefits of fine strand vs. thick strand copper wire, but the laws of physics don't change whether you're talking car ignition, arc-welding, or lightening. Either you understand (intuitively or otherwise) the electromagnetic principles or you don't. It's that simple.

Well thanks for insulting my intelligence... Lemmie just throw out that I'm a degreed engineer, and I have absolutely NO reason to believe there is ANY need for a 4ga ground to the head(s)... You're telling me there is 150A trying to find a path to ground through the heads?!?! The starter doesn't even pull that... WTF do you have connected to yours? Upgrading the biggies is a sound principal, but tossing extras all over is a waste.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.