Rearview Mirror Monitor / Camera Installation

[Pushbutton]

Installation of a Rearview Mirror Monitor and Camera

By “Pushbutton”

8 July 2006

This instruction was done based on a 2005 Magnum, but with some minor change could work on any of the LX cars.

Objective: Resolve the very poor rear view on the Magnum in a better way than either ultrasonic or infrared sensors can provide.

Self-Imposed Restrictions:
- No big holes in the body.
- No modifications to the Navigation system due to an extended warranty.
- Good visual integration with the interior.
- Wife-proof. Sorry, but I had to say that!

Equipment Selected:

- Smallest Rearview Backup Camera, Waterproof, 7/8" long by 5/8" diameter...about $105. Ref. eBay # 4646251866.
- Rearview Mirror/Monitor (MM from here on in this blurb) 9.5" wide by 4" high. Same width as OEM, but 1.5" higher...about $150 w/ useless camera (see end of article). Ref. eBay # 9742009270.

I had considered the larger 12” wide mirror, but it was far too big to preserve a decent view to the front. Also, I had considered the visor and small LCD on the dash but discarded them for ease-of-use reasons.

Tools Required:

Voltmeter
1/2" drill
1/8" drill
Pop rivet gun
Silicone Sealant
Fish
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Terminal Crimpers
Soldering Gun & Rosin Solder
Trim Tool
Tywrap Gun
Phillips Screwdriver
Flat Screwdriver
Small Hammer or Mallet
Torx Screwdriver T-20


The Process:

Step 1

Mount the MM to the vehicle. This is the biggest issue with the LX's since the EVIC is very close to the OEM mirror and there is insufficient room for the taller MM. You will have to move the mirror mounting metal piece down about 1 - 1.5". I suggest having a professional glass shop do this. I did and it cost me $20 and 15 minutes...far cheaper on both counts than a new windshield!




Step 2:

Secure the MM to the OEM mirror. The MM is a clip-on design, but it does not hold securely on our mirrors. So I used Radio Shack High Strength Velcro, two pieces, about 1 x 1.5” from the OEM glass to the back of the MM.




Step 3:

Open up the car panels. Remove the following panels:

- Rear Seat bottom, just pull up hard on the front about 1’ in from the side.
- Cargo floor down to the battery.
- Rear Opening Lower Cover, 4 Phillips screws.
- RH Tail Light access cover



- Front Passenger end of dash trim, pry lower edge first with trim tool, then pull gently.
- RH windshield (“A” pillar) trim, pries out from top with trim tool, then rotate horizontal while pulling gently.
- Front passenger lower door opening trim, pry with trim tool from rear of piece, rotate upward while pulling backward.
- Rear RH passenger lower door trim…partially. Pry up front only with trim tool




- Front passenger seat belt cover, 4 Phillips screws, slide belt out with seat fully forward.
- Remove about 5-7 (I forgot!) white push rivets with trim tool to expose wire bundle aside front & rear seats.



Step 4:

At this point I suggest that you connect the rear view camera to the MM and temporarily wire it according to the instructions. This will allow you to select proper placement of the camera and monitor prior to making any cuts.


Step 5:

If you liked what you saw in step 4 you are ready to commit!
With a pencil locate the camera position. Mark & drill two 1/8” holes. Remember to locate it out of the way of pedestrians and car wash implements of destruction.




Step 6:

Drill one ½” hole in the rear inside fascia on either side of the rib, just below the thicker section of metal, as shown in the photo. (Photo is looking almost straight down.)
NOTE: I had already installed an infrared backup alert below the license plate. This accounts for the four black and black/green wires shown on the right of the rib.




Step 7:

Pop rivet the camera to the car. Consider using aluminum rivets for security and antirust as well as backup washers on the inside …if your fingers can reach; I got only one!




Step 8:

Since I already had the backup sensor installed I hooked up a red 22 AWG wire to the RH backup light and ran it forward to the MM as a “reverse sense’” circuit to awaken the MM. I also tied in the camera power to this circuit in the rear of the car. Ground the camera power ground anywhere convenient.

ALTERNATIVELY: You can find the same wire in the RH passenger foot well as a white wire with a light green stripe in a brown 26 pin plug, pin 17. (Thanks to Magnum Maniac.)


Step 9:

Run the red “reverse sense” wire and the camera video output cable forward along with the main wire harness bundle.



Continue to string the cables towards the front along the wire bundle path.



Dress the cables carefully around the seatbelt mechanisms.


Step 10:

Dress cables to the side of the bundle and secure them to the main bundle with tywraps…sorry for the bad photo!




Step 11:

Dress the extended wire from the MM under the front lip of the headliner, down the “A” pillar to the passenger side kick panel area.




Step 12:

Find an ignition hot wire. It should be pink with a white stripe (thanks again Magnum Maniac). I simply hooked mine into the same accessory (lighter) tap that I had used for the radar detector and cell phone hands free unit.


Step 13:

Wire it up per the instructions that came with your MM and camera.

- Camera input (do not shorten the cable, simple coil it up & hide it).
- Ground.
- “Reverse sense” to backup circuit.
- Ignition (Hot).

Solder and insulate all connections with butt connectors & tape. Secure wires as required.




Step 14:

Turn it on and behold your work!

Please note you will want to use your MM controls to select the proper image (normal if you have a “reversed camera” or reversed if you have a “normal camera”). Basically you want the same perspective that you get in the actual OEM mirror.



NOTE: The actual MM image looks a lot better than this. I think it is the way the digital camera processes vs. the human eye…don’t know for sure.

Take notice of the Weller soldering gun, a Christmas gift in 1957, the kneeling pads and the DeWalt case as they appear in the above image as compared to the real view below.



Notice how close the items are to the rear bumper. I put the 20# propane tank in afterwards for visual scale.

Seal any holes you made with silicone RTV and let them set for 24 hours before moving anything around them.


Step 15:

Put it all back together before you wife gets home!

[Pushbutton]

I guess it did work!

Here is the Addendum that made the original file too big:

ADDENDUM:

I had also hoped to install the camera that came “free” with the MM as a forward looking view for close-in parking assist, but I failed!

The failure was caused by the firmware in the MM that made it a multi-step process (but not impossible) to switch from the camera back to either rear view or a zero-state (normal mirror mode) without getting a blue screen.

If you want to try it run the wire from the front camera thru the fender top to where the door wiring enters the car. Slice the boot & reseal with silicone RTV. Power the camera with the high beams (idea courtesy of another member whose name I forgot). See photos of pull path, bracket and mounting.



Bracket with camera.



This is the material source for the bracket. Thanks 2000 Lincoln LS!



Camera mounts to the underside of the top fascia under the “c” in Dorschel.



Start fish in here.



Fish exits here. (Just incase any of your "clean freaks" ask, the gumbo all over the inside of the car is Zeibart. We really need it up here in the Rust Belt!)


Note: See Post #20 for the successful installation and operation of the FRONT CAMERA.

[moparman53]

Awesome article. It should be put into the Knowledge Base.

[hemiwagn]

Great write-up, super organized and clear. well done!

[SmoovC]

Awesome write up!! Helluva lot better than the picture books that come with Factory parts! I am diggin' the dual source inputs; that rocks. Bonus creativity points!

[Bubba's Dragon]

I like the write up but can you make the pictures a lot bigger please, im blind and hard to see detail.
Thanks and nice work
Bubba

[Pushbutton]

Bubba, I had a major problem with the photos' size. The BB software will not allow me AFAIK to make them bigger.

If anyone can tell me how, I will try it otherwise PM me with your email and I will send selected photos...remember that the whole file is 17 mb with full size photos and most emails will reject it. Each photo is about 1 mb.

Have you tried putting your cursor on the photo and clicking the mouse...the photo will get somewhat larger?


PS: I will try to get a better photo in the next day or so of the image in the MM that represents what you will really see.

[Pushbutton]

Magnum Maniac, I had an idea on the dual inputs.

Could I "Y" in the RF signals to one single input.

Then put a sense lead from the high beam switch thru a blocking diode and a similar one from the reverse circuit thru another diode.

The diodes will allow the MM to see the sense signal from either circuit and the diode will prevent the reverse light from activation the high beams and vice versa.

I'm not too sure if the RF "Y" thingy will work.

JAAK can you comment on this?

[Pushbutton]

Here is a view which is more representative of what the human eye will see in the MM. The umbrella is about 6' in diameter, about 3' behind the Magnum and NOT visible in the inside OEM rear view mirror.

[SmoovC]

Magnum Maniac, I had an idea on the dual inputs.

Could I "Y" in the RF signals to one single input.

Then put a sense lead from the high beam switch thru a blocking diode and a similar one from the reverse circuit thru another diode.

The diodes will allow the MM to see the sense signal from either circuit and the diode will prevent the reverse light from activation the high beams and vice versa.

I'm not too sure if the RF "Y" thingy will work.

JAAK can you comment on this?

A video switcher would also work. Vizualogic has one that works similiar to your description; when in reverse it senses one input, when not in reverse it reverts back to your default input.

[Jaak]

Magnum Maniac, I had an idea on the dual inputs.

Could I "Y" in the RF signals to one single input.

Then put a sense lead from the high beam switch thru a blocking diode and a similar one from the reverse circuit thru another diode.

The diodes will allow the MM to see the sense signal from either circuit and the diode will prevent the reverse light from activation the high beams and vice versa.

I'm not too sure if the RF "Y" thingy will work.

JAAK can you comment on this?

I'd have to think about this for a bit. I'm a little concerned about how things are driven for protection of the video drivers, so a couple of things come to mind. The concept is interesting, and may work.

You could also switch it with a relay if you use one that's small enough to not dramatically impact the video quality. I'd also switch the camera power so only one is turned on at a time.

I'm going to need to do this myself, so I will give it thought. (Right now, I have to get back to work!)

[Pushbutton]

I'd have to think about this for a bit. I'm a little concerned about how things are driven for protection of the video drivers, so a couple of things come to mind. The concept is interesting, and may work.

You could also switch it with a relay if you use one that's small enough to not dramatically impact the video quality. I'd also switch the camera power so only one is turned on at a time.

I'm going to need to do this myself, so I will give it thought. (Right now, I have to get back to work!)

Jaak, thanks for joining in. The switching of the 12v to both cameras would be an either/or, simultaneous to the sense circuit change.

[Pushbutton]

More cameras back in stock where I got mine. See: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMALL...QQcmdZViewItem

[Super T]

Can someone clarify... is this a separate mirror, or is it transparent when off? can i use my autodim and uconnect functions on my OE mirror with one of these strapped to it??

[Pushbutton]

This particular one clips onto your existing mirror.



The OEM mirror is on the bottom in this photo, the new one on top. I'm holding it by the mounting arm and the manual dimmer-flipper is on the lower left side.

The buttons, etc., on your old mirror will not be accessable, but the electronic functions like uconnect should work if it can be activated.

I found that you do not need the autodim feature since the new MM has a reduced reflectivity due to the one-way mirror which allows the monitor to function.

If the autodim / uconnect is important to you a visor mount may be a better solution. You could also consider a small monitor mounted to one of the cell phone mounts lower on the dash.