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  1. #1
    CplDaugherty's Avatar
    CplDaugherty is offline Once a Corporal... Still a MARINE.
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    How to Remove/Change your Steering Wheel

    Preface: Instructions on how to remove and install a steering wheel for an LX vehicle.

    Model(s): All 2005-2007 LX (Extra steps included for those with EVIC)

    Difficulty: (1 to 10, 1=easy) 2. Requires minimal tools, intelligence, and time. Will require some brute strength if proper power tools are not available.

    Time Required: Approx. 45 min (15 min safety period after disconnecting battery, 30 min actual work time).

    Cost (for Mod): Any needed tools and (if necessary) a new steering wheel. My cost was less than $200 total for a steering wheel replacement.

    Tools and Materials: 10mm deep socket, phillips screwdriver, 10mm hex socket, socket extension, small flathead screwdriver, impact gun (optional)

    Removal Process:

    Step 1: Park the car and engage the emergency parking brake. Keep the wheels straight and the steering wheel centered. If possible, lock steering wheel. Fully extend the steering wheel towards the drivers seat and lower to a comfortable level.

    Step 2: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and isolate it. WAIT 15 MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG CAPICATOR TO DISCHARGE!!!!! This will keep the airbag from accidentally going off in your face during removal, possibly causing serious injury or death.




    Step 3: Remove two (2) 10mm bolts from the back side of the steering wheel. The are located on the left and right side at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock respectively. On the left side you may need to put the turn signal lever in the right turn signal position. You may also need to turn the wheel to the left if the steering wheel is not locked to gain proper access.





    Step 4: Gently pull the top of the airbag outward. You will see a black connector at the top. Do not put too much pressure on this connection as it will break. On the top of the right side you will see a clip. Insert a small screwdriver under the tab and pull the right side connector off. This does require a slight bit of force, but nothing excessive.




    Step 5: Pull the airbag down so that it is horizontal with the front facing the ground. Disconnect the two (2) airbag terminals by squeezing the color coded tabs on the sides and pulling straight up. Also remove the white connector towards the back and bottom. There is a tab on the top, pull the left side away from the right. All three (3) of these connectors seperate fairly easily.



    Step 6: Using a 10mm Hex and socket wrench, remove the center bolt from the steering wheel. This will take ALOT of force. The bolt is very snug and held in with blue locktite. I used my left hand to pull up on the steering wheel spoke as I used my right hand to push down with the socket wrench. Took a few tries and alot of effort. If you have an impact gun, it would probably come in very very handy removing this bolt.
    (Disregard the fact that the airbag is still connected in this pic, I hadn't yet figured out how to disconnect it)



    As you can see, they used blue locktite on this bolt, that's part of the reason it's such a pain to remove.



    Step 7: Pull steering wheel straight off. Using a phillps screwdriver remove the four (4) screws holding the back plastic shroud to the steering wheel. The bottom white connector will be attached to the plastic shroud, just pull it right off. ** If you have an EVIC system and steering wheel controls, take note that the wires for those controls are routed behind the steering wheel, between it and the plastic shroud.



    The following steps are only necessary if you are changing steering wheels and your new one did not come with the control modules and/or plastic inserts.

    Step 8: Remove the plastic inserts from the old steering wheel by using a small flathead screw driver to pry them out. I suggest prying from the insed of the steering wheel underneath the plastic so that you do not scratch the pieces. Transfer to the new steering wheel by simply pressing them firmly into the appropiate slot.

    Step 9: If you have steering wheel controls, remove them from your old steering wheel. This is a little difficult to do. If you push up on the connector while you use a screwdriver to pry the controls away from the steering wheel they should pop right out. As you can see below, there are two tabs holding them in. Try to get your screw driver pushed back there from the inside of the steering wheel so that you do not scratch the plastic. They will make a loud pop when they come out, don't worry you most likely didn't break them. Disconnect the wires from the control unit.






    Step 10: Transfer the wires and control units over to your new steering wheel. Run the wires through the holes provided and plug them into the right and left control units. Then press the control unites into thier slots and they should snap right in with enough pressure.
    Your new steering wheel is set to be installed!




    Step 11: Get rid of your old steering wheel! It's of no use to you now!

    Last edited by CplDaugherty; 08-09-2007 at 12:25 PM.
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    [06 300C - 70 Mach1 347 stroker - 77 F250 460 - 85 Ramcharger 318]
    "I spent a lot of my money on booze, women and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."

  2. #2
    CplDaugherty's Avatar
    CplDaugherty is offline Once a Corporal... Still a MARINE.
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    Installation:

    Step 1: While everything is basically apart, take advantage and clean up all those hard to reach places. Wipe down everything inside and out and leather treat your steering wheel.

    Step 2: Attach the back plastic shroud to the new steering wheel. Be sure to run the wires in between the shroud and steering wheel so that they are tucked out of the way (see below for an example). Use a phillips screwdriver to attach the four (4) screws. Be sure to put the white connecter back on the tab provided on the plastic shroud (towards the bottom).



    Step 3: Making sure the clock spring is properly orientated, put the steering wheel back on and, using the 10mm hex and torque wrench, tighten to 45 ft/lbs of torque as per the Service Manual. If you feel it's necessary add a bit of locktite.
    (notice in the top pic the wires are INCORRECTLY routed)




    Step 4: Reconnect the airbag. First connect the white connector towards the bottom rear of the steering wheel assembly. Then connect the two (2) connectors for the airbag. They are color coded so pay attention when plugging them back in. Then insert the bottom half of the airbag into the steering wheel and connect the black connector at the top and finish putting the airbag the rest of the way in.


    Step 5: Using a 10mm deep socket, insert and tighten the two (2) bolts into the back left and right side of the steering wheel to 89 in/lbs of torque as per the Service Manual.




    Step 6: Reconnect your battery. If applicable, test your steering wheel controls to make sure they still function correctly. Your radio will be off! So don't freak out that you can't control the volume, press the volume button on the radio it's self to turn it on (non-nav radios, not sure how to power on the nav unit). Also move the steering wheel in/out and up/down. If something does not work, disassemble and reassemble checking for errors as you do so. If you still can't get it to work, take it to the dealer and hope they don't know enough about your car to see you swapped out your steering wheel.

    Step 7: You're good to go! Enjoy your new steering wheel!





    NOTE: After I finished my install I went for a little test drive. On the second corner I turned on, I hit the gas hard enough to engage ESP. The ESP/BAS lights came on and a chime sounded. I drove for 5 more miles and they did not go off. I pulled over, turned off the car and turned it back on and the lights cleared. I have not had them return in the last 6000+ miles of very spirited driving. You may or may not expirence something similar.
    Last edited by CplDaugherty; 08-09-2007 at 12:27 PM.
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    Sponsored by Billet Technology
    Powered by Franks Racing Inc

    New build: 392 stroker, FRI street/strip heads, FRI cam, Kooks Longtubes, PI 3400 TC, SLP LM2 catback, LMI CAI, 09 Intake, CTP port matched spacers and DS loop, MTCM, Ported TB, BCR Coilovers, R1 rotors, Autometer AFR and fuel pressure gauge, Motorad 176* tstat, SRT wheels, carputer.
    [06 300C - 70 Mach1 347 stroker - 77 F250 460 - 85 Ramcharger 318]
    "I spent a lot of my money on booze, women and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."

  3. #3
    fnkychkn's Avatar
    fnkychkn is online now rain dance maggie
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    2 minutes is plenty to discharge ORC (occupant restraint controller) capacitors.

    use of impact wrench to remove the steering wheel bolt is not recommended. the bolt head strips easily (personal experience). better off to have a helper hold the wheel while you crack it loose.

    once the steering wheel is removed, unscrew one of the three clockspring screws enough to prevent the clockspring from turning while the steering wheel is off. don't forget to screw it back down before reinstalling the steering wheel.


    btw, excellent write-up. beans for you.
    Last edited by fnkychkn; 05-11-2007 at 09:54 PM.
    Izzy pics money talks. unfortunately, mine usually says... "good bye!"

  4. #4
    Tbird100636's Avatar
    Tbird100636 is offline Master ASE Certified NON-Chrysler Tech
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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by fnkychkn View Post
    2 minutes is plenty to discharge ORC (occupant restraint controller) capacitors.

    use of impact wrench to remove the steering wheel bolt is not recommended. the bolt head strips easily (personal experience). better off to have a helper hold the wheel while you crack it loose.

    once the steering wheel is removed, unscrew one of the three clockspring screws enough to prevent the clockspring from turning while the steering wheel is off. don't forget to screw it back down before reinstalling the steering wheel.


    btw, excellent write-up. beans for you.
    I hate to disagree with you fnkychkn, but from my personal experience, doing it by hand is quite risky. The bolt is pretty tight. For someone trying to hold it, they ratchet could remotely slip off and hit your friend. Doing it alone is even worse. Let me tell you about my little experience with a steering wheel nut almost 7 years ago. I was just stating out at my dealer and there was a recall on 92-95 Caravans that involved installing a reinforcing plate under the steering wheel nut. Early in the day, I did the recall and somehow got the nut loose by hand with no problem. In the afternoon, I got another one. In the process of trying to hold the steering wheel and get the nut loose, the ratchet slipped off and hit me in the mouth. So to this day, the very bottom of my RF top tooth is bonding. It was a hard and slightly painfull lesson to learn. My dentist said there was a chance I would loose the tooth. Luckily, that didn't happen. From that point on, I used an impact gun to take off and put on steering wheel nuts. I just turn the gun down to the lowest setting when tightening the nut. In one rare instance, I took off a steering wheel nut using a ratchet but I hit the end of the ratchet with a shot filled hammer. Also from my experience, I have removed several LX steering wheels, and have used a 3/8 impact gun to remove the bolt every time without a problem.
    2011 Dodge Charger R/T Plus AWD- Redline - 5.7L Hemi Registry #1650 Tbird100636
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  5. #5
    joseph's Avatar
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    Nice write up, but can you give reasons why the steering wheel would need to be removed, besides replacing the airbag.
    I don't see a mod here (unless I'm missing something)

  6. #6
    Junior's Avatar
    Junior is offline LX Guru

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    Quote Originally Posted by joseph View Post
    Nice write up, but can you give reasons why the steering wheel would need to be removed, besides replacing the airbag.
    I don't see a mod here (unless I'm missing something)
    Getting rid of fake woodgrain, for one

    Great writeup, Chris - Not sure I'll ever need to do it, but I love seeing folks digging into stuff...

  7. #7
    CplDaugherty's Avatar
    CplDaugherty is offline Once a Corporal... Still a MARINE.
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    Thanks everyone. I appriciate the feedback.

    Junior is right, I did it to finally rid my car of the god awful tortise shell steering wheel. I had already replaced the door pulls and shifter, this was the last thing left on my list.

    Thanks Junior! I figured it could help someone out sometime, maybe... lol.
    If you can read this, thank a Teacher.
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    New build: 392 stroker, FRI street/strip heads, FRI cam, Kooks Longtubes, PI 3400 TC, SLP LM2 catback, LMI CAI, 09 Intake, CTP port matched spacers and DS loop, MTCM, Ported TB, BCR Coilovers, R1 rotors, Autometer AFR and fuel pressure gauge, Motorad 176* tstat, SRT wheels, carputer.
    [06 300C - 70 Mach1 347 stroker - 77 F250 460 - 85 Ramcharger 318]
    "I spent a lot of my money on booze, women and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."

  8. #8
    hemiwagn is online now Converted Chevy Guy
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    Great write-up thanks. I need this for a future mod I'm contemplating.
    um, where are the billet tech knobs for the radio......?
    2006 Magnum SRT8 "HEMIWAGN"; HalfFast Performance built: Frank Racing Extreme Heads, Scudd Cam & Ported Intake; lafrad Tuned, Paramount Performance 4400TC & Valvebody. Best 1/4: 11.065 @ 123.54 MPH, 1.560 60' 3755lbs with driver

  9. #9
    CplDaugherty's Avatar
    CplDaugherty is offline Once a Corporal... Still a MARINE.
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    The BT knobs are enroute... I was hoping to have my carputer installed by now, so I never ordered them as the radio is going to be taken out.
    If you can read this, thank a Teacher.
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    Sponsored by Billet Technology
    Powered by Franks Racing Inc

    New build: 392 stroker, FRI street/strip heads, FRI cam, Kooks Longtubes, PI 3400 TC, SLP LM2 catback, LMI CAI, 09 Intake, CTP port matched spacers and DS loop, MTCM, Ported TB, BCR Coilovers, R1 rotors, Autometer AFR and fuel pressure gauge, Motorad 176* tstat, SRT wheels, carputer.
    [06 300C - 70 Mach1 347 stroker - 77 F250 460 - 85 Ramcharger 318]
    "I spent a lot of my money on booze, women and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."

  10. #10
    RadarmagneT's Avatar
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    Just wanted to add a tid-bit of info for step 5... (from the LX SM)

    CAUTION: Do not pull on the horn switch feed pigtail
    wire to disengage the connector from the
    driver airbag or to disconnect the horn switch to
    steering wheel wire harness connection. Improper
    pulling on this pigtail wire or connection can
    result in damage to the horn switch membrane or
    feed circuit.
    RadarmagneT
    2006 Red Charger R/T...
    Dynatech Header&Cats,Magnaflow, K&N, Hotchkis Sways, Diablo, NoESP.

  11. #11
    crhemi's Avatar
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    How to release the control buttons

    Quote Originally Posted by CplDaugherty View Post
    Preface: Instructions on how to remove and install a steering wheel for an LX vehicle.

    Model(s): All 2005-2007 LX (Extra steps included for those with EVIC)

    Difficulty: (1 to 10, 1=easy) 2. Requires minimal tools, intelligence, and time. Will require some brute strength if proper power tools are not available.

    Time Required: Approx. 45 min (15 min safety period after disconnecting battery, 30 min actual work time).

    Cost (for Mod): Any needed tools and (if necessary) a new steering wheel. My cost was less than $200 total for a steering wheel replacement.

    Tools and Materials: 10mm deep socket, phillips screwdriver, 10mm hex socket, socket extension, small flathead screwdriver, impact gun (optional)

    Removal Process:

    Step 1: Park the car and engage the emergency parking brake. Keep the wheels straight and the steering wheel centered. If possible, lock steering wheel. Fully extend the steering wheel towards the drivers seat and lower to a comfortable level.

    Step 2: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and isolate it. WAIT 15 MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG CAPICATOR TO DISCHARGE!!!!! This will keep the airbag from accidentally going off in your face during removal, possibly causing serious injury or death.




    Step 3: Remove two (2) 10mm bolts from the back side of the steering wheel. The are located on the left and right side at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock respectively. On the left side you may need to put the turn signal lever in the right turn signal position. You may also need to turn the wheel to the left if the steering wheel is not locked to gain proper access.





    Step 4: Gently pull the top of the airbag outward. You will see a black connector at the top. Do not put too much pressure on this connection as it will break. On the top of the right side you will see a clip. Insert a small screwdriver under the tab and pull the right side connector off. This does require a slight bit of force, but nothing excessive.




    Step 5: Pull the airbag down so that it is horizontal with the front facing the ground. Disconnect the two (2) airbag terminals by squeezing the color coded tabs on the sides and pulling straight up. Also remove the white connector towards the back and bottom. There is a tab on the top, pull the left side away from the right. All three (3) of these connectors seperate fairly easily.



    Step 6: Using a 10mm Hex and socket wrench, remove the center bolt from the steering wheel. This will take ALOT of force. The bolt is very snug and held in with blue locktite. I used my left hand to pull up on the steering wheel spoke as I used my right hand to push down with the socket wrench. Took a few tries and alot of effort. If you have an impact gun, it would probably come in very very handy removing this bolt.
    (Disregard the fact that the airbag is still connected in this pic, I hadn't yet figured out how to disconnect it)



    As you can see, they used blue locktite on this bolt, that's part of the reason it's such a pain to remove.



    Step 7: Pull steering wheel straight off. Using a phillps screwdriver remove the four (4) screws holding the back plastic shroud to the steering wheel. The bottom white connector will be attached to the plastic shroud, just pull it right off. ** If you have an EVIC system and steering wheel controls, take note that the wires for those controls are routed behind the steering wheel, between it and the plastic shroud.



    The following steps are only necessary if you are changing steering wheels and your new one did not come with the control modules and/or plastic inserts.

    Step 8: Remove the plastic inserts from the old steering wheel by using a small flathead screw driver to pry them out. I suggest prying from the insed of the steering wheel underneath the plastic so that you do not scratch the pieces. Transfer to the new steering wheel by simply pressing them firmly into the appropiate slot.

    Step 9: If you have steering wheel controls, remove them from your old steering wheel. This is a little difficult to do. If you push up on the connector while you use a screwdriver to pry the controls away from the steering wheel they should pop right out. As you can see below, there are two tabs holding them in. Try to get your screw driver pushed back there from the inside of the steering wheel so that you do not scratch the plastic. They will make a loud pop when they come out, don't worry you most likely didn't break them. Disconnect the wires from the control unit.






    Step 10: Transfer the wires and control units over to your new steering wheel. Run the wires through the holes provided and plug them into the right and left control units. Then press the control unites into thier slots and they should snap right in with enough pressure.
    Your new steering wheel is set to be installed!




    Step 11: Get rid of your old steering wheel! It's of no use to you now!

    If you take a small flat blade screw driver and insert it between the black plastic from center of buttons then gently pry the black plastic away from the silver buttons it will release the tabs. Do this on both sides of the spoke. It wil pop out with out a struggle.

    Great write up Cris!
    SOLD! $19K-2006 LOADED 300C SRT8 W/Deep-Dish Grille, VIP Rear window Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Airhammer, Magnaflow High Flow Cats & Exhaust, BT Trunk Wing, Black Sonar LED Tails, Hotchkis Sways, KWvII's, D.S. Predator, Dyno (406hp/410trq pre-exhaust) CMR Tuned Your NoVa Realtor!

  12. #12
    snailtek is offline LX Padiwan
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    i didn't read any of the audio controls harnesses remove and reinstalled.. actually my concern is if i maybe able to put a steering wheel with audio controls to a non-audio control magnum.. i am not sure if there is a harness hiding in there to connect the audio control harness from the steering wheel that im going to purchase.

    lmk
    tnx
    05 Silver Magnum SE <= that's all i can afford =>
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  13. #13
    CplDaugherty's Avatar
    CplDaugherty is offline Once a Corporal... Still a MARINE.
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    I didn't have to remove the harness. BUMP for someone with the answer.
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    New build: 392 stroker, FRI street/strip heads, FRI cam, Kooks Longtubes, PI 3400 TC, SLP LM2 catback, LMI CAI, 09 Intake, CTP port matched spacers and DS loop, MTCM, Ported TB, BCR Coilovers, R1 rotors, Autometer AFR and fuel pressure gauge, Motorad 176* tstat, SRT wheels, carputer.
    [06 300C - 70 Mach1 347 stroker - 77 F250 460 - 85 Ramcharger 318]
    "I spent a lot of my money on booze, women and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."

  14. #14
    DeafCharger's Avatar
    DeafCharger is offline Recovering mod addict
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    Is it possible to remove steering wheel control buttons? I was thinking of paint red on silver and put black buttons to replace silver buttons.

  15. #15
    TORREDAYTONA is offline Banned
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    Cool Wu

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