Magnum Spoiler removal 101.
I had an exciting and busy weekend going back to my hometown for a class reunion, my niece's birthday party, and to pick up some of the parts I was having painted at the GM dealership my brother works at. I know there has been some buzz on the boards about painting the spoiler since blackhemimag and some others posted pictures of how nice it looks. I took some pictures of the swap so anyone wanting to do this could have a reference. I found the repair manual too general and not helpful. Grinner was generous enough to send me blackhemimag's spoiler in exchange for mine so i didn't have to be spoilerless for a week. Thanks Grin, you rock!


Open the hatch and remove the 2 screws in the pull down handle on the liftgate.

wedge your fingers under the panel and firmly pull the panel away from the liftgate. When it gives it makes a horrible creaking noise that will make you wince and your buttcheeks will tighten up because you think you just broke it.

disconnect the interior light before lowering the panel all the way. The lower panel also has tabs connecting it to the upper liftgate interior panel. wiggle it around until it comes off.

remove these 2 screws from the upper panel, and pull it off just like the lower one...creaking noise and all. at this point examine the backs of both panels you removed to verify the plastic christmas tree pins all stayed connected. I had 1 pin let go of the panel and stay stuck in the plastic grommet. I had to pry this one out and re-clip it to the panel. I bought a few extra plastic grommets in case I damaged one. this didnt happen, so I will ship them off with my core for grinner.

At this point I remember folks on the forum talking about having a rattle fixed somewhere back here, so I start wiggling everything and found this wiring harness made noise. I pulled it out of its mounting hole, put some leftover foam gasket around the exposed hole, and then after clipping the harness back in, I duct taped the wires to the liftgate.

REMOVING the SPOILER:
1. remove the 2 10mm nuts holding this doohickey in place and let it hang down by its wires
2. remove the 3 10mm nuts in the holes illustrated.
3. there are 2 plastic clips that there is no access to on the ends of the spoiler. close the lid, and with careful firm pressure lift one side of the spoiler at a time until the pin on that side breaks. another buttcheek tightening noise will follow. ****be careful not to apply so much force that the 2 plastic pins in the center of the spoiler break too!
4. This is where another set of hands is helpful. the only thing holding the spoiler on is the 2 pins that you have access to. Have someone hold and apply a lght pressure to the spoiler away from the lift gate. use a needlenose pliers to squeeze each pin to release.

carefully pull on this hose fitting to disconnect. some washer fluid may spill out. unplug the brake light wire here too. pull these parts and the rubber grommet through the hole and the spoiler is off.

check the foam gasket around the edge of the spoiler you will be putting on the car. The stock gasket is very soft and thin. I bought a roll of all purpose self adhesive sponge rubber weather stripping from ace hardware (not too many other options in my little hometown) the super firm stripping is 3/8" wide and 1/8" thick. much thicker and firmer than the stock stuff. Some other forum goers suggested a 3M foam strip the has adhesive on 2 sides which would work too, but wasnt available at the hardware store I went to. In my typical over estimation, I got an extra roll to be sure I'd have enough and didn't even open it. Grinner this will be with the core too. 1 10' roll is enough to do 1 spoiler.

at this point I cleaned the gunk that was under the spoiler on the liftgate which wasnt too bad, my gasket was completely in tact so the was just a little dirt. Then I test fit the new painted spoiler (from blackhemimags car) by REMOVING all the plastic clips and leaving only the threaded studs. you dont want to have to break anymore clips during this test. I ran the brake wire and washer hose through the window and reconnected them to see if they both still worked. now would be the time to swap my brake light to the new spoiler if blackhemimags didnt work, but it did. I also wanted to test the sprayer because the body shop did paint it and I wanted to make sure it was not clogged up. Note all the crap on my car. My parent's meathead neighbor decided to mow his dustbowl dead yard while I was doing this and he kicked up all sorts of dust into the air. Nothing the california duster couldn't handle though.

now its time to put the spoiler on for good. I disconnected it from the test and took the plastic pins off my original spoiler I put the 2 that I was able to salvage out on the ends and the 2 broken ones in the middle spots where the threaded studs will be doing all the attachment work. If you dont want to use the broken pins, you can use a small carriage bolt and nut in these locations. Place the spoiler in its location and press until the pins click. reverse the above steps to reassemble your car.

Now I will be sending the spoiler I took off to Grinner so he can mod his car some more. I didnt get around to installing the grills I bought from sweeper6 this weekend. I know there is a KB article on how to do this, but my folks no longer have a computer and I didn't want to try to figure it out. I had the grills painted brilliant black too. It should look sharp, but im concerned it may look funny with my R/T chrome lights....I may have to find an SXT swap partner.
MODS: Borla 112 exhaust•SRT8 suspension•Hotchkis swaybar•K&N drop-in filter•35% Tint•Auto Headlights•Chromed R/T rims•SRT grill•SXT Headlights•Daytona chin spoiler•300C interior door pulls•Custom "Monkey" leather armrest.
COLOR MATCHED: Custom engine cover•Air box•Shock covers•radio/shifter bezel•shifter•rear spoiler•lic. plate frame•splash guards•
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