LED taillight swap - Magnum

**bmartin9122** · 03-12-2006, 08:15 PM

Here are the steps with copious pictures included. I will break it up into a few posts.

1. The new taillights have arrived from Factor One Garage... Yay!!!

2. There is absolutely no damage - probably a result of the good packaging:

3. Check out the warning about polarity. It is clearly written by a non-native speaker: (more about polarity later)

4. Okay. Time to remove the OEM taillights. First, you will need a regular-sized flat screwdriver. Use this to pry the 2 plastic plungers out of their expandable grommets. Although I didn't need to use them, you may find pliers useful here, too.

**bmartin9122** · 03-12-2006, 08:28 PM

5. Here comes the "fun" part. Using the same screwdriver, gently pry off the cover located in the hatch area.

6. The sound deadening material can be "opened" like a little door, so you can see the plastic wingnut inside.

7. CAREFULLY unscrew the wingnut using as little force as possible, because it is easy to break the plastic lug which holds the screw. Also, DO NOT DROP THE WINGNUT!!!!! It will most likely fall into the dead space in the metal body. You will NEVER be able to retrieve it if this happens. Believe me - I did it. Stuff some paper towels in the gap or be prepared to order part number 6507357AA. Thanks to fnkychkn for the part number! BillyDsl has suggested tying a piece of fishing line to the nut - sounds like it is worth a try!

8. You can now slide off the taillight. The connector needs a squeeze to release it. If you feel you won't drop the assembly, you could choose to swap the lights without disconnecting the harness. Here is a side-by-side comparison of the OEM next to the red/smoke style LED taillight.

9. Compare the back of the two taillights. You will have to salvage the harness.
edit: You will have to remove the old 2-filament brake light bulb. The pigtail you see on the new taillight plugs into the now-empty OEM socket. Finally, just twist the OEM socket into the new taillight. It effectively seals off the LED components from the outside.

If you do not wish to replace all of the bulbs with LEDs, then just swap the harness and reverse the steps. You're done!

Read the next post if you are going the distance with LEDs for all three........

**bmartin9122** · 03-12-2006, 08:43 PM

10. Here is what came with my order from superbrightleds.com, of course, this part is optional. I just wanted to complete the look. You will need two 3157-A25's for the turn signals. You will experience hyper-flashing without a resistor kit.

BTW, I was not satisfied with the light output from these 3157 replacements. I ordered another set that promised to better illuminate the reflector. They actually work as advertised, but I do not believe they are as bright as an incandescent bulb. I am also considering a set of Spiderlites. Check them out at www.spiderlite.com, and let me know how you like the fit and performance! Here is the alternative bulb I am currently using:

This is the resistor kit from Super Bright LEDs (scroll almost to the bottom). You will need two - one for each taillight.

11. And 2 921-W9's for the backup lights. There are other bulbs that will work, but they are not bright enough to effectively illuminate the area behind you when backing. I tried a 5-LED version and immediately swapped them for the 9-LED bulbs.
edit: One of the 9-LED bulbs has already failed, so I am back to stock on the reverse lights for now. (08/01/06)

12. Remember about polarity? Well, LED's are inherently "one way" devices, so if you connect them backwards, then they will not turn on. Don't worry. Just switch the connector, and everything should be okay. To help troubleshoot this, try out ALL of the lights before reinstalling.

13. Now to install the load resistor - you need to do this on each side to prevent hyper-flashing. First, isolate the positive wire for the turn signal bulb. You can trace the wire from the socket and across the connector. It is important to locate the wire on the car side of the connector. You also need to locate the ground wire. It is the only black wire in the bundle. Snap the blue no-cut splice connectors onto the wires WITHOUT closing the connector. Unlike the LED bulbs, the load resistor will function properly with current flowing in either direction - you will notice the leads from it are not uniquely identified for this exact reason. It isn't important.

EDIT: For those of you who decide to attach the load resistor on the taillight side of the connector harness, I have been informed that you must tap the ground wire that leads to the brake light NOT the backup bulb. If you choose the wrong one, then you will still experience hyper-flashing. (Thanks Invader!)

14. Second, using the load resistor as a template, drill two small pilot holes just below the lug hole. Clean any dust and dirt from the area and apply a generous amount of high-temp silicone.

15. Mount the load resistor using some stainless steel sheet metal screws. (sold separately)

16. Trim any excess wire from the load resistor and make the final connections to the blue no-cut splice connectors.

17. Here is the final product on a black Magnum.

18. Here is a nighttime side-by-side comparison of the 9-LED bulb (left) versus the 5-LED bulb (right).

Good luck to you.... It is very easy. I took my time. Including the frustration of losing the wingnut and the required recovery time, I only spent about an hour.

-Bryan

**DMAG** · 03-13-2006, 09:28 AM

Awesome write-up and looks great!

**EXTREME** · 03-14-2006, 12:42 AM

badass!!!

**Fondy** · 03-14-2006, 01:31 AM

looks great i need some

**jgroenke** · 04-09-2006, 11:39 PM

Umm, nevermind.. I answered my own question. Doh

Jgroenke

**Lik2race** · 04-10-2006, 02:42 AM

Man..that takes a lot of time, didn't realize y'all had to go through all that. ...

I did my "C" in about 15 minutes..Lots easier....

**jgroenke** · 04-10-2006, 11:29 AM

There is no difference in installation time (essentially) between the Magnum and the 300C for the Factory Ones if you leave them stock and re-use your INCANDESCENT bulbs.
All the time expenditure you see is to accommodate LED TURNSIGNAL bulbs, which you would have to do the same amount of investiture of time on your 300 should you want LED TURNSIGNALS.
(and frankly, for me, that time expediture isn't worth it currently as the LED bulbs aren't anywhere as bright or visible from off-axis as the incandescents).

(just to keep things clear).

Jgroenke

**bigsteam1** · 05-31-2006, 12:37 PM

YOU SAVED ME A BUNCH OF TIME..THANKS;.. DO YOU HAVE A THREAD FOR HID BULB INSTALLATION LIKE THIS ONE YOU CAN SAVE ME EVEN MORE...THANKS A LOT...........

**nick_danger** · 05-31-2006, 02:01 PM

Wow. EXCELLENT write-up. Rep for you. Mods, can we move this to the Knowledge Base? It looks so good, too! Better than I thought it would.

**bmartin9122** · 06-02-2006, 10:42 AM

Thanks guys - the rep points are appreciated. The HID bulb swap KB post is in the works. I am going camping this weekend, but I hope to find some time early next week - like Sunday or Monday.