Tutorial on installing a basic new MP3 stereo deck in a Magnum

[Cdn_Magnum]

Well I decided today was the day to replace my factory CDradio with an aftermarket unit. After some looking for the basic functionality that I was looking for(namely MP3 playing and a bit more umph than the factory unit), I decided upon the Panasonic CQ-C7413U. And besides I got it at one heck of a price. I liked the fact that I could customize the colour of the display (still playing with this feature.... but blue is my main theme for lighting inside).
So, here is a step by step replacement guide. I would suggest to anyone who is intending to swap out a factory deck to invest in an aftermarket wiring adapter harness and antenna harness adapter. This little baby will save you from having to tap and splice into the factory harness and should you decide to ever sell your ride you can simply inplug it and reinstall the factory deck.

List of materials:

A replacement mount kit. THere are several brands on the market (Metra, Scosche, American International), well I went with the American International, mainly because I bought it through a place that specializes in car audio installions.

- American International CD-K648 Mounting kit

The wiring kit is a Metra number as is the antenna adapter (Chrysler opted for a unique antenna jack)

- Wiring Kit Metra 70-6502 or Scosche CR02B

- Antenna adapter American International CR-6 or Metra 40-CR10 or Scosche CRAB

- @2 foot length of wire (red prefered to keep colour codes proper, I used orange because it was on hand)

- Fully insulated connector (1 x male & 1 x female) your choice on type for Accessory 12v line

- heat shrink tubing (minimum 10 1 1/2 inch pieces)

- nylon tye wraps

- electrical tape

- and an hour of your time to solder the wiring harness up and make it pretty




I first prepared my new wiring harness. I cut approximatly 3" off the new harness that will plug into the vehicles factory harness. I was trying to minimize excess cable. I place a 1 1/2" piece of heat shrink tubing on each of the 10 wires that I needed to solder. Attach an insolated connector to the 'Acc 12v' feed line on the radio side of the harness (explained later)



Removal of the front bezel is straight forward. Open the ashtray and gently but firmly pull forward on the lower portion of the bezel. Slowly work your way up tp about the middle and pop out the next tabs. And finally move to the top and pop out the final two tabs. Only pull the panel forward approximately 3 inches when freed from the dash, so as not to pull on the cables mounted to the controls on the panel.

WARNING -- Only pull the panel forward NOT upward or you will break the plastic tabs!!! (no I'm not speaking from experience here )







Reach in behind the panel and remove the lower 3 connctors (this is on an SXT with normal a/c controls). Each of this connectors is released by pressing on a tab which will disengage the connector from the panel.



At the top portion of the panel is one more connector for the hazard, wiper controls. Release it in the same manner.



Now place the bezel in a safe spot, so as not to get damaged.

My factory radio was held in place by 4 phillips head screws. I believe some have hex headed screws instead, though I am not sure on the size. Remove these 4 screws and place them in a safe spot.

Pull the factory radio straight forward slowly. There will be a connector on the rear of the radio similar to the others you have recently removed. Squeeze the tab and remove the connector. The antenna connector has a release collar on it as well, gently remove the antenna connector then place your old factory radio someplace safe.
Be sure to have removed any cd's that might have been in your deck before removing the connector.

Since the factory radio does not use 'accessory 12v' line you will have to find a spot to tap in to get this signal. I used the cigarette lighter socket at the bottom of the console.
The ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly is held in place with plastic tabs similar to the centre bezel assembly. A firm but gentle pull forward will remove this panel. Strip back some of the insulation and solder and tape this connection. This is what you needed the 2 feet of red wire for (in my case I used orange wire because thats what i had available). I placed an insulated connector on the radio end of this wire. I routed the wire in behind the dash assembly. I had done this a week before my installation in preparation for this install. Also to make sure all my adapters were the proper ones. I didnt want to get caught in the middle of the install just to find I had the wrong parts or the replacement panel looked like crap.



Assemble your new radio in the replacement mounting bracket assembly. Ensure your radio is positioned in its proper spot, in other words not too far forward or recessed too far back. Especially if your decks front panel is removable or tiltable.

Plug your newly soldered wiring harness into the factory wiring harness and then plug it into your new deck unit. Plug your antenna adapter into the factory antenna connector then into the back of your new deck. Attach your 'Accessory 12v" line to the radio harness.

At this point I tested my deck to make sure that it was functioning.



If all appear to function as it should carry on. At this point I wrapped my harnesses in foam. The reason I did this was to minimize the chances of them vibrating against something in the dash and causing a rattle.



Place your new deck into the original decks mounting position and re-secure it with the 4 screws you removed earlier. Being careful to route your cables into the open cavities where they wont get pinched or rub against anything.



If you have sub outputs (which this deck does) and you have an amp for your sub, then this is the time to run the RCA cables back to your amp. I will be doing this on a different date because its raining outside and I dont want have the doors open and have panels removed for running the cables and get every thing wet.

Lineup and press your ashtray assembly back into place.

Take the centre bezel. Reattach the upper connector to the hazard button/rear wiper switch assembly. Re-attach the 3 lower connectors. Lineup and gently press the upper, then centre, then bottom of the bezel back into place.





Sit back and program your new car desk.

This was the easiest car deck install I have ever done. Mind you, prepping the harness ahead of time with a direct plug in unit sped up the entire install.

[Nargaroth]

Thanks for the detailed description! I'm having a couple of issues trying to replace the factory reciever. I've never done this so please bear with me. I had no problem removing the two smaller wiring harnesses on the center bezel, but the large one that attaches to the fan control doesn't want to come out, and it seems to have a more complicated release tab than any of the others. I'm wondering if the red part near (or part of?) the tab needs to be removed to get it out, but I don't want to break it.

Once I removed the receiver, I found two wiring harnesses in addition to the antenna. I assume the smaller one is for power, which isn't compatible with my aftermarket receiver. This must be why it's necessary to splice into a different power source wire, like the cigarette lighter. Could you go into more detail on how this is done? Until I get the center bezel out of the way, it's kind of hard to get in there, but it looks like there are several wires running to the cigarette lighter.

Thanks for your help!

[ChargLex]

Yes, thanks for the detailed write-up and pics, I'm installing an aftermarket line-in adapter and needed some confidence before I started pulling at the bezel.

Nagaroth, as for multiple wires going to the cig lighter, hmm, that seems odd to me... I can report my findings if someone doesn't beat me to it.

[GR8DODG]

Nice write up

[Tweeder43]

Does installing a aftermarket stereo mess up the use of Uconnect?

[amillio83]

Quick question. I am about to remove my stock radio and install a new kenwood headunit. Being as though I have not ever done anything like this before I wanted to know before I started, is there a open space where the volume knobs are and if so what did any of you guys put there in place of it.

[Cdn_Magnum]

Quick question. I am about to remove my stock radio and install a new kenwood headunit. Being as though I have not ever done anything like this before I wanted to know before I started, is there a open space where the volume knobs are and if so what did any of you guys put there in place of it.

THe adapter plate(s) fill all the voids/spaces that remain from the factory radio. Usually the aftermarket deck is smaller than the factory unit so with the adapter in ther you end up gaining a small storage space (built into the adapter) below the new deck... ** see the final install pix. The upgrade to a non stock radio is very very easy and well worth the time. Prep the harness ahead of time, it will save you time in the end.

[Dvlstoy]

Just a FYI, if you buy your head unit from Crutchfield, the mounting unit they give you has no pocket and centers the radio in the opening. For my Sony unit to fold all the way down to access the cd slot I had to dremel a notch for the knob on the Sony unit. I think the pocket style aftermarket style would work better in retrospect and may look into getting that one later.

[niagaras3fifty7]

if they dont use 12 volt acc how can factory radio keep time & station presets?

[NastyNorm215]

Yes I am trying to decide between a single din or a double din this helps