Rear 6X9 Replacement (Magnum)

**nick_danger** · 08-13-2005, 10:27 PM

If you can replace your speakers without any modification, count yourself fortunate. Here are the steps I went through last night to install new speakers. The basket of my 6x9 was the tiniest bit larger than the whole allowed so I had to produce a 3/8ths inch riser to go between the speaker and the steel mount. With the riser, the speaker JUST fit under the plastic molding around the speaker area...

OK, first step is to remove the rear panel. First, unscrew the panel in the middle and pull it off:

Remove the stock speaker and it should look like this:

Create a template either by measuring the basket at its widest points or use the one that came with your speaker.

Outline your speaker's edges and indicate where the screwholes should be. Hopefully your new speakers use a standard screw placement so you won't have to drill into the steel plate in the car... I used 3/8ths wood here... I'm not sure what kind of wood it is, it was just lying around.

Once you have your lines drawn, eyeball your template into the center and trace the outline. Use a fairly large drillbit for the screwholes to give yourself some room for error when putting it all together. Not TOO big, though... Use the largest sized bit you want for a starting position for your saw in the middle of the template area.

Cut!

Don't put away the saw just yet, you'll have to trim around the outside of the template as well. I tried to keep it wider than 1/2" all the way around, but it can be a tight fit in some locations, so trim as necessary. The wood I used was somewhat prone to splitting, so I had to be carefull... Remember to drill your holes BEFORE cutting this riser piece!

Once you've set your riser in the area and your speaker fits flush (or really close to it), double check that you can screw each of the four screws in - because you don't want to start sealing it until you know it will all fit together. Once you've verified that, you can feel comfortable snipping and stripping your wires to connect to the new speakers. Be sure that you have the wire coming up through the riser and not under it or else you'll be unhappy... Also, I would advise attaching plenty of spare length of wire so the attached speaker can rest outside of the hole. If you're installing all new wire, just give yourself some excess... I'm getting the whole car rewired later, so this tiny, unattractive wire does not concern me at present... FYI, the wires in the rear with the GRAY stripe are the negative wires. If I remember correctly, the driver's side is Dark Green with a Gray stripe and the passenger side is Yellow with a Gray stripe. Connect to your speaker accordingly. TEST IT!

Once you're wired up (I soldered my stuff together), it's time for some caulk! This is where stuff got really messy and I didn't feel comfortable handling my camera, so this is the last picture. If you didn't already have a tarp or blanket over the interior and some spare paper towel, now is the time...

Apply the silicon sealer (or whatever you prefer) to the underside of your wood riser. Be generous but be careful not to get it all over the place. You may want to put a little extra in the screwholes. Set your riser down on the steel and give it a firm press. Don't worry about lining up the holes yet, we still have to get the speaker in there. I applied the silicon to the underside of the speaker and then dropped it in, but if you'd rather apply it to the top of the riser, do that. Just ensure that you create a good seal between the steel, riser, and speaker, this will greatly reduce vibrations. Be sure to wipe away any sealant that goes where you don't want it!

Once all it's all sealed down, it's time to line up your holes and screw it in! I used a 4" long steel tap to insert it through the speaker hole, riser hole and line it up with the screw hole in the steel plate. Once you line up one, insert that screw and tighten it down about halfway. Repeat the process to the opposite corner holes. The other two should line up perfect. Assuming you aligned everything BEFORE applying any sealant, you already knew it would workout fine anyway. Screw down all the screws as tightly as you feel comfortable. Wipe away any excessive sealant - if you care...

Now place your cover back over the speaker. Voila!

**ASU_Magnum** · 04-25-2006, 02:10 AM

great write up and I just wanted to add that Alpine Type-R 6x9s and 6"s are a direct swap(with included brace) front and back and sound pretty good.

**XeenoMorph** · 05-17-2008, 12:46 AM

Originally Posted by nick_danger

If you can replace your speakers without any modification, count yourself fortunate. Here are the steps I went through last night to install new speakers. The basket of my 6x9 was the tiniest bit larger than the whole allowed so I had to produce a 3/8ths inch riser to go between the speaker and the steel mount. With the riser, the speaker JUST fit under the plastic molding around the speaker area...

OK, first step is to remove the rear panel. First, unscrew the panel in the middle and pull it off:

Remove the stock speaker and it should look like this:

Create a template either by measuring the basket at its widest points or use the one that came with your speaker.

Outline your speaker's edges and indicate where the screwholes should be. Hopefully your new speakers use a standard screw placement so you won't have to drill into the steel plate in the car... I used 3/8ths wood here... I'm not sure what kind of wood it is, it was just lying around.

Once you have your lines drawn, eyeball your template into the center and trace the outline. Use a fairly large drillbit for the screwholes to give yourself some room for error when putting it all together. Not TOO big, though... Use the largest sized bit you want for a starting position for your saw in the middle of the template area.

Cut!

Don't put away the saw just yet, you'll have to trim around the outside of the template as well. I tried to keep it wider than 1/2" all the way around, but it can be a tight fit in some locations, so trim as necessary. The wood I used was somewhat prone to splitting, so I had to be carefull... Remember to drill your holes BEFORE cutting this riser piece!

Once you've set your riser in the area and your speaker fits flush (or really close to it), double check that you can screw each of the four screws in - because you don't want to start sealing it until you know it will all fit together. Once you've verified that, you can feel comfortable snipping and stripping your wires to connect to the new speakers. Be sure that you have the wire coming up through the riser and not under it or else you'll be unhappy... Also, I would advise attaching plenty of spare length of wire so the attached speaker can rest outside of the hole. If you're installing all new wire, just give yourself some excess... I'm getting the whole car rewired later, so this tiny, unattractive wire does not concern me at present... FYI, the wires in the rear with the GRAY stripe are the negative wires. If I remember correctly, the driver's side is Dark Green with a Gray stripe and the passenger side is Yellow with a Gray stripe. Connect to your speaker accordingly. TEST IT!

Once you're wired up (I soldered my stuff together), it's time for some caulk! This is where stuff got really messy and I didn't feel comfortable handling my camera, so this is the last picture. If you didn't already have a tarp or blanket over the interior and some spare paper towel, now is the time...

Apply the silicon sealer (or whatever you prefer) to the underside of your wood riser. Be generous but be careful not to get it all over the place. You may want to put a little extra in the screwholes. Set your riser down on the steel and give it a firm press. Don't worry about lining up the holes yet, we still have to get the speaker in there. I applied the silicon to the underside of the speaker and then dropped it in, but if you'd rather apply it to the top of the riser, do that. Just ensure that you create a good seal between the steel, riser, and speaker, this will greatly reduce vibrations. Be sure to wipe away any sealant that goes where you don't want it!

Once all it's all sealed down, it's time to line up your holes and screw it in! I used a 4" long steel tap to insert it through the speaker hole, riser hole and line it up with the screw hole in the steel plate. Once you line up one, insert that screw and tighten it down about halfway. Repeat the process to the opposite corner holes. The other two should line up perfect. Assuming you aligned everything BEFORE applying any sealant, you already knew it would workout fine anyway. Screw down all the screws as tightly as you feel comfortable. Wipe away any excessive sealant - if you care...

Now place your cover back over the speaker. Voila!

The Photos are dead...