MyGig install in an ’07 Dodge Charger Daytona
First off I would like to thank everyone on the forums for the info they had posted that allowed me to start this process. Also, thanks to nickinfleet for the idea on the rear view camera location.
OK, so here are some things that I found out during this process. Mainly, nobody told me upfront that the clock in the MyGig will not work in an older model vehicle (pre 2008), everything else seems to though. The clock does not work because the mygig receives time from the CAN Bus. The 08 use a FCM (forward control module, located in the cluster) that the previous models did not have. This includes the “network” time provider. I believe some are working on a fix for this now. My main reason for going with the MyGig & not an aftermarket unit was fit & finish. My ultimate goal was to make everything look like it belonged there.
Here are the steps;
Order a MyGig (off of ebay)
Order a LockPik from CoastaleTech.com, also ordered an AV cable
Researched the size of the MyGig and a stock 07 REC, NAV unit. I determined that the REC Bezel would not hit the goal of looking “stock” with the mygig in place. The REC is larger. If this does not bother you I have an 07, Sublime REC Bezel for sale. Also I was accustomed to the caddy beneath the heater controls that the REC did not have in the bezel. I chose to cut the existing bezel to fit the mygig. Another option may be to order an 08 bezel for a car with mygig & paint to match if needed.
The Parts
So, now for the fun…
Before
![]()
Make sure you have all of the correct parts before you start cutting! I accidentally ordered the wrong lockpik, If I had cut this out before I discovered this, my wife would have been driving around with a misfit bezel over the stock radio! Why not save the dinner time conversation for something else!
Get help when needed!
I was unsure of how the bezel was going to fit around the mygig, so I made a “gasket” out of 2mm craft foam (walmart) which also made a nice template. The right LockPik adapter comes with a paper template. First, drill out the new corners with a 3/16 drill bit, then cut the edges “into” the corners, I used a jig saw with a fine blade. I was very cautious here and cut smaller than needed, I then filed out the last 1/16 of an inch with a file, test fitting the mygig as I went. This was the most nerve wracking as the bezels are around $200!
Once it was cut, I had my painter repaint the newly cut edge. While the paint was drying… on to the wiring.
Starting at the back of the car, I modified the existing trunk lock hole to fit the rearview camera (made it about 1/16 inch bigger). I recommend using a Unibit or stepped drill bit.
Mounted the camera,
Ran the wiring (this gets tucked up into the trunk lid).
I first used a piece of wire to fish up through the trunk support seen at right. Then through the rubber wire loom and into the rear deck area. I ran a 12v + & - plus a video cable through here. Lube the new wires up with dish or hand soap before you try to pull them through the rubber wire loom. Also make the connection between the wire you use to “fish” the new wire into the harness, as small as possible, wrap tightly with electrical tape and feed the wire in as someone pulls lightly on the “fish” wire.
All done! No one was ever here!
Pull down the cover below the rear deck (covering the speakers, inside the trunk). Take the rear seat bottom out of the car, fold the rear seats down, remove the door sills, B pillar molding ( around the front seat belts), front door sill, passenger’s kick panel, and glove box. If you do not have one, I would recommend buying a door panel removal tool (removes the plastic trim tabs without breaking them). When routing wires, make sure they are not going to get pinched by any moving parts or panels when you put the car back together. I also took this time to run a left & right audio, RCA cable (20’) and 14 gauge “amp turn on lead” to the trunk for future SUB use.
Pull the stock deck wiring down to the area behind the glove box, this makes it easy to hook up the lockpik, and access it later if needed.
![]()
Route the lockpik wiring up to the deck location. I also had to add a GPS antenna & a Sirius antenna. There is a metal, tubular, dash support cross member right above the radio. This runs across the car. I mounted both antennas to the top of this, above the glove box. Next time, I’ll buy or make a satellite radio extension cable & connect it to the stock puck antenna on the roof. I may still do this, but reception has been fine.
Hook everything up according to the LockPik instructions.
I mounted the UConnect microphone in the caddy under the heater controls, out of sight once it is installed in the car.
Easy mounting of the mic.
Once everything is connected, test out the mygig, camera, satellite, HDD, etc.
Mount the radio, heater controls, etc. and put it all back together.
Crank your favorite tunes & take it for a test drive to the qwikky mart, buy some beer! MMMM
Plan at least two days for this, take your time.


LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks


! 






















Reply With Quote




money talks. unfortunately, mine usually says... "good bye!"



Share This Thread