After scouring the forums for information on how to put an R/T exhaust on my V6, I decided to do a write up of how it is done. All of the information compiled into an easy to understand (hopefully) write-up. Now, I’m having a shop weld my on. Some people, from what I’ve read have used the clamps, and had to use an adapter. This just seemed “Un-steady” to me. I didn’t want to have to check the tightness of the clamps every few thousand miles. With that said, let’s get onto the parts you’ll need.
Total Time: About an hour for prep, and an hour or so at the shop.
Difficulty: 3 of 10
WHAT YOU’LL NEED:
Stock Exhaust Brackets.
Part Number: 4581723-AB
Cost: $9.20 a piece from my dealership.
Two 8mm Bolts. 1-1/4”
Cost: $1.03 from Home Depot.
These will be used to bolt the exhaust brackets to the car.
Two Exhaust Insulators.
Part Number: 17160
Cost: $3.99 from Autozone.
Two Rolls of Insulator.
Cost: $4.29 from Home Depot.
RT Exhaust.
Cost: $100 from a local member. (Thanks Terri)
Socket set, plastic cleaner, rags.
There’s a good few things you can go ahead and do before you take your car to the exhaust shop. I was able to clean the RT exhaust and polish the tops of the tips, put my heat shield material onto the inner fender well, and gas tank, and also install my brackets.
Step 1:
I didn’t have my ramps, so I just jacked up the rear of my car and used some jack stands.
Step 2:
The first thing I did was crawl underneath there and with some cleaner and a rag, cleaned my inner bumper where my left side resonator will be fairly close to. I went ahead and placed some of the insulator on this area.
This stuff goes on really easy, and is incredibly strong. We will see how it holds up when some heat gets around it. I may end up going with the factory heat shield if I need to.
Step 3:
Next, I put some of the insulator on the gas tank, across from the factory heat shield. Make sure it’s clean so it can adhere well.
Step 4:
Get your bolts and brackets for the exhaust and get your socket set. Mine was a 12mm socket. I didn’t get before pictures of the holes where the brackets need to go, but you can’t miss it. The after should look something like this.
Furthest back:
Closest to rear of car.
Step 5:
Grab your exhaust insulator A.K.A., the rubber hanger, your checkbook, and head out to your local exhaust shop.
Out with the old
This was the guys at The Muffler Shop on Raguet in Lufkin sliding the passenger side of the exhaust into the appropriate hangers.
All mocked up, ready to be welded.
Getting welded on
In with the new
Side Notes: The exhaust insulators I got from Autozone ended up being a fluke. They were made out of old recycled tires, it looked like. Luckily, the shop had some extras they used that were about a ¼” longer than the stock ones. I’d advise getting some from the dealership, or maybe even having the shop weld them on instead.
Because of the quarter inch difference, I will be going back and adding a quarter inch washer to the brackets on the passenger side.
The heat insulator I used is working great; it isn’t peeling back or anything. I will give more of an update after it’s been driven in rain and regular conditions.
Overall: It sounds great, not too loud; not too quiet. I actually feel like it gave me a little bit of pick up. I don’t know about actual HP increase, but it definitely looks good and fills in that extra cutout. I am extremely pleased with the outcome. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
Final Cost to me: $207.02 (I gave the exhaust guy a tip)


LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks

























Reply With Quote












Share This Thread