Unfortunately, it's just one fan.
I'd go the NoESP route for both ESP and fans. WAAAAAAY Better than GSM's.
Super Bee #0427 of 1000 with USW Forged Wheels
Mopar CAI, Corsa Exhaust, Diablo canned tune, Drag Radials, Skinnies
12.217 @ 117 mph
I've had the chance to play with fan mods, using the basic setups and thermo control.At 95+ ambient temps, need to go from 2 on low, or 1 on high, (same difference) to both low, then kick the big one on high to hold 180. Untill I shed some heat load, I'll use the 75 cent mod to keep from throwing a cel.Like FC stated, 100 below ambient is all the system will do, unless you go 2 on high, or add auxillary coolers to take load off the rad.I'm not going to run the crap out of my fans for normal driving.I've set my $40- thermo control mod to run at 200-204. Most of my driving is above 50 mph and keeps the temps below that, without fans. If I want to run hard, and I'll dial my temp down to 176 thermo setting.Everyone can do what they want, but this makes sence to me.With the 4127, on cool mornings, I need to pay attention to the EVIC.I had no problems with the 4128 running at 188, also see no difference in MPG with the 4127, but 1 MPG over stock 203, with the 4128.I used a jumper like the 75 cent mod to do the first relay in line for 2 on low. Found no difference from the 1 big one on high.Like you thought, need both on low, and the then the big one on high to keep the temps down.I'm npt daily racing , so will keep these settings until I race. JMO
Adaptive Craving Control-by Hal9000 modification strictly prohibited
FI IV.5, Solo cat backs, 180 thermo, Catch Can, DS tuner, SRT heads,headers and mids, Derale 32000BTU Tranny cooler with fan control, duel oil coolers, P/S cooler, Pedders Track II, coil overs, Hodgkiss sways, BWoody links, 20" Jacks N Five with Nitto Invo's, Custom brakes by TCE. Bling by BT.
Just a grocery getter!
Has anyone with a CAI checked the Air Intake Temperature when the fans are running?
It would appear the extra fan action might stir up the hot air and force it into the CAI intake location.
Someone with Superchips could easily check the Air Intake Temperature with Data Acquisition, with and without the fans running.
My AFE stage2 definatley had no seal between the engine compartment. I opened the front to allow air in, and sealed to the engine bay about 90%. Bottom line is I now get little to no air from the engine bay.
I removed the IAT and taped over the opening in the manifold.
I found no difference in performance with the IAT in the heat of the rad., or in the cooler air inside the intake.
I've read on a post, that the IAT does little for performance, just at initial kickdown for point something seconds.
I would have pointed to the post, but ain't that good with the search features yet.
What about your fan motor or bearings shortened life span?
Is that not a concern?
RKSportHood 65standardGrille DankoSpoiler AACBlingRings&16"LED's AACBlingRingFogs ColorMatched2ToneHeadlightsDubAirCAI MagnaFlowExhaust TaylorShortyWires CustomEngineCover KWCoiloverV1 HotchkisSwayBars R1ConceptRotors PosiQuietCeramicPadsFooseNitrous20x8.5 GoodyearRSA255/45/R20 MGPCaliperCovers
Besides, I'd be happy to buy another fan... Unless you live somewhere hot all year, I don't see this as an issue. Half the year the fan's off, here.
2006 Chrysler 300 SRT-8 ALL options, Mopar CAI, Magnaflow catback Magnaflow High-Flow cats, Predator. For now!
Same for the 300C SRT (It's the same car, sorry, you didn't know?) and yes, put the relays back in when you start it.
Also, check out the fan mod from NoESP...
I did a couple thermo mods, and gained over 1 MPG.
I built a fan mod system with aftermarket temp probe, and it worked well when temperatures wrere moderate.
Now that the So.Cal heat has kicked in, it's pretty much worthless, unless I want to run both fans on high all the time.
Fans still don't address the heat sink on your intake system. Only shedding heat from the engine bay will do that.
Fans will not address the inadequacy of our cooling systems to cool our engines with stock rad., tranny cooler, oil cooler.
I think Meister and Matt are on the right track in increasing cooling capacity. Maybe heavy duty factory unit will do.
Meister has also removed the belly pan cover. More dust and dirt on the engine, but much more air flow through the engine bay + cooler intake temps. Just tie down the parts connected to what you remove.
Pale Rider makes some nice head covers that allow the heat trapped under the stock engine cover to dissapate.
Cool is Cool. And IMO adds the greatest $ for $ gain.
Just a daily driver - but still pulling 16+ and 25+ mpg.
Looking for a 300 for my wife. Any sugestions for the 6 vs. 5.7?
There you go guessing, Hal.
Actually, that's not the case at all. Airflow is in from the front fascia (giant manta ray maw, ala Xenon), the 300C Special Edition's egg crate grill, and my own ram air duct. This positive pressure has the engine compartment airflow flowing back and down over the engine and out through the now open area beneath the engine. If anything I get less dust & crud on my engine than when stock.
The only thing needing battened down after pulling the entire lower shroud assembly (2 pieces), BTW, is the fender well liners, which require a couple of stout zip ties to anchor them to the front bumper area to keep them off the front tires at elevated speeds.