25-cent Fan Mod

[Meister]

At Sears, when your lanes are racing, the staging area is stop and go. I just want to throw a switch while I'm sitting and idling, not while the motor is shut-off. Is that what the $200 switch kit is for from GS?

In addition to providing one the means to completely disable ESP on the fly (no traction control, no torque management), the GSM Mod provides the ability to run a radiator fan whenever one chooses to do so.

[Jaak]

Unfortunately, it's just one fan.

I'd go the NoESP route for both ESP and fans. WAAAAAAY Better than GSM's.

[Hal'sMag]

I've had the chance to play with fan mods, using the basic setups and thermo control.At 95+ ambient temps, need to go from 2 on low, or 1 on high, (same difference) to both low, then kick the big one on high to hold 180. Untill I shed some heat load, I'll use the 75 cent mod to keep from throwing a cel.Like FC stated, 100 below ambient is all the system will do, unless you go 2 on high, or add auxillary coolers to take load off the rad.I'm not going to run the crap out of my fans for normal driving.I've set my $40- thermo control mod to run at 200-204. Most of my driving is above 50 mph and keeps the temps below that, without fans. If I want to run hard, and I'll dial my temp down to 176 thermo setting.Everyone can do what they want, but this makes sence to me.With the 4127, on cool mornings, I need to pay attention to the EVIC.I had no problems with the 4128 running at 188, also see no difference in MPG with the 4127, but 1 MPG over stock 203, with the 4128.I used a jumper like the 75 cent mod to do the first relay in line for 2 on low. Found no difference from the 1 big one on high.Like you thought, need both on low, and the then the big one on high to keep the temps down.I'm npt daily racing , so will keep these settings until I race. JMO

[Meister]

Unfortunately, it's just one fan.

I'd go the NoESP route for both ESP and fans. WAAAAAAY Better than GSM's.

Way better than GSM's fan mod portion of the GSM Mod.

Will need to read up on the ESP features of this cool new mod.

[sidetrack]

Has anyone with a CAI checked the Air Intake Temperature when the fans are running?

It would appear the extra fan action might stir up the hot air and force it into the CAI intake location.

Someone with Superchips could easily check the Air Intake Temperature with Data Acquisition, with and without the fans running.

[Hal'sMag]

My AFE stage2 definatley had no seal between the engine compartment. I opened the front to allow air in, and sealed to the engine bay about 90%. Bottom line is I now get little to no air from the engine bay.
I removed the IAT and taped over the opening in the manifold.
I found no difference in performance with the IAT in the heat of the rad., or in the cooler air inside the intake.

I've read on a post, that the IAT does little for performance, just at initial kickdown for point something seconds.
I would have pointed to the post, but ain't that good with the search features yet.

[Magmania]

What about your fan motor or bearings shortened life span?
Is that not a concern?

[Pale Rider]

What about your fan motor or bearings shortened life span?
Is that not a concern?

Are you reffering to the original post? Jumping the terminals to get the fan on? That was only meant for occasional use, as in Drag Racing. Not all the time.

[Jaak]

Besides, I'd be happy to buy another fan... Unless you live somewhere hot all year, I don't see this as an issue. Half the year the fan's off, here.

[ajsince81]

I just made this little pic, I'm leaving it in my car so I don't have to guess at the track.

Are these mods the same for the 300c SRT as shown above?

Also is it better to take them out before each run or leave them in all the time at the track?

Thanks for the good info.

[Jaak]

Same for the 300C SRT (It's the same car, sorry, you didn't know?) and yes, put the relays back in when you start it.

Also, check out the fan mod from NoESP...

[Hal'sMag]

I did a couple thermo mods, and gained over 1 MPG.

I built a fan mod system with aftermarket temp probe, and it worked well when temperatures wrere moderate.

Now that the So.Cal heat has kicked in, it's pretty much worthless, unless I want to run both fans on high all the time.

Fans still don't address the heat sink on your intake system. Only shedding heat from the engine bay will do that.

Fans will not address the inadequacy of our cooling systems to cool our engines with stock rad., tranny cooler, oil cooler.

I think Meister and Matt are on the right track in increasing cooling capacity. Maybe heavy duty factory unit will do.

Meister has also removed the belly pan cover. More dust and dirt on the engine, but much more air flow through the engine bay + cooler intake temps. Just tie down the parts connected to what you remove.

Pale Rider makes some nice head covers that allow the heat trapped under the stock engine cover to dissapate.

Cool is Cool. And IMO adds the greatest $ for $ gain.

Just a daily driver - but still pulling 16+ and 25+ mpg.

Looking for a 300 for my wife. Any sugestions for the 6 vs. 5.7?

[Meister]

...I think Meister and Matt are on the right track in increasing cooling capacity. Maybe heavy duty factory unit will do.

Meister has also removed the belly pan cover. More dust and dirt on the engine, but much more air flow through the engine bay + cooler intake temps. Just tie down the parts connected to what you remove...

(Blue emphasis mine.)
There you go guessing, Hal.

Actually, that's not the case at all. Airflow is in from the front fascia (giant manta ray maw, ala Xenon), the 300C Special Edition's egg crate grill, and my own ram air duct. This positive pressure has the engine compartment airflow flowing back and down over the engine and out through the now open area beneath the engine. If anything I get less dust & crud on my engine than when stock.

The only thing needing battened down after pulling the entire lower shroud assembly (2 pieces), BTW, is the fender well liners, which require a couple of stout zip ties to anchor them to the front bumper area to keep them off the front tires at elevated speeds.

[Pale Rider]

Are these mods the same for the 300c SRT as shown above? Good answer jaak!

Also is it better to take them out before each run or leave them in all the time at the track?

I did not take out the jumper at the track, in fact I've put it in for around town use every once in a while.

Here's one thing I've noticed, that I don't THINK has been mentioned.
When using the jumper in the position to have 2 fans on low, as soon as the motor is started, they (or maybe one, not sure) will go to HIGH speed when the check engine code comes on.

But keep in mind, this is not a code that only the dealer can reset. They will never see it. This code WILL be removed with 3 (or is it 4, can't recal) engine starts once the jumper is removed. Or you can do it with fuse 11. Either way, it is not storing a permanent code. I see no issue with keeping the jumper while driving.

But if you're nervous, just take it out when getting ready to start the motor - just be aware, the water is not circulating when engine is not running.

Thanks for the good info.

Mine in Red of course, (this line required to post).

[ajsince81]

Same for the 300C SRT (It's the same car, sorry, you didn't know?) and yes, put the relays back in when you start it.

Also, check out the fan mod from NoESP...

Thank You.

BTW, I'm aware of the fact that the MSRT8 is the same car with a different body. I saw that you drove a maggie after your posted this comment and thought this thread was mainly about the 300c (that was stated in the first post). I should of looked more closely.