How to do a Brake Job on an LX *

**EXTREME** · 04-10-2006, 12:17 AM

This is NOT for SRT8 Models with Brembo Brakes

from FSM:

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - WARNING)(Refer to 5 - BRAKES - CAUTION).
1. Raise and support vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
NOTE: Perform steps 2 through 6 on each side of the vehicle.

2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
NOTE: In some cases, it may be necessary to retract caliper piston in its bore a small amount in order to provide sufficient clearance between shoes and rotor to easily remove caliper from knuckle. This can usually be accomplished before guide pin bolts are removed by grasping rear of caliper and pulling outward working with guide pins, thus retracting piston. Never push on piston directly as it may get damaged.

3. Remove Lower caliper guide pin bolt. To do so, hold the guide pin (3) stationary while turning bolt (1).

4. Rotate caliper upward (1), exposing brake pads (2 and 5). Use care not to overextend brake hose when doing this or damage may occur. </B>
5. Remove inboard (2) and outboard (5) brake pads from caliper adapter (4).
6. If necessary, remove anti-rattle clips (3) from upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).

INSTALLATION

NOTE: Perform steps 1 through 7 on each side of the vehicle.

1. Completely retract caliper piston(s) back into bore(s) of caliper. To do so:

Remove fluid reservoir cap.
Use hand pressure or a C-clamp may be used to retract piston, first placing a wood block over piston(s) before installing C-clamp to avoid damaging piston(s).
Install fluid reservoir cap.

2. If removed, attach anti-rattle clips (3) to upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).
3. Install NEW inboard (2) and outboard (5) brake pads on caliper adapter (4). NEW Inboard and outboard pads are interchangeable.
4. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
5. Rotate caliper downward, aligning upper mounting boss with lower guide pin.

6. Install Upper caliper guide pin bolt (1). While holding guide pin (3) stationary tighten bolt to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.

7. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N·m (110 ft. lbs.) torque. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION)
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Pump brake pedal several times to set pads to caliper and brake rotor.

10. Check and adjust brake fluid level in reservoir (1). (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE) CAUTION: When NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake applications following installation.
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat brake shoes.

**nolimitwdy** · 04-19-2006, 08:07 PM

Can you recomend a good replacement pad?? Metalic or semi-metalic???

**NC-SXT** · 04-19-2006, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by nolimitwdy

Can you recomend a good replacement pad?? Metalic or semi-metalic???

Ceramic ,they come from the factory that way. Thats why you have no dust. Expensive but well worth it IMO

**Von Doom** · 05-30-2006, 01:02 PM

Are you saying the pads from the factory ARE Ceramic. My brakes squeal all the time and I only have 3,000 miles on the car. I was gonna replace them with Ceramic to quiet them down.

Just want to be sure.

**crazy_luck** · 05-30-2006, 01:10 PM

Mine must be semi-metalic at least. There is some serious brake dust (although not as bad as the SRT's) with some typical squealing. Must be one of the "bean counter" changes made for '06...

**jbs123** · 05-30-2006, 05:01 PM

I was just about to do a brake job.
Thank you for this article.

**E55 KEV** · 09-23-2006, 08:58 PM

Great writeup. NE1 know how to remove the 5.7 rotors? Thanks.

**snow_mag** · 09-24-2006, 12:46 AM

Planning a brake job soon. Thanks for the great write up.

**SoCuffMe** · 09-24-2006, 06:04 AM

Nice post and write up/illustrations! THX!

**STAGE 3 R/T** · 09-24-2006, 07:08 AM

nice write up!

**Rockadile** · 09-25-2006, 12:34 PM

Originally Posted by crazy_luck

Mine must be semi-metalic at least. There is some serious brake dust (although not as bad as the SRT's) with some typical squealing. Must be one of the "bean counter" changes made for '06...

THe last few cars I've owned came with ceramic pads. I've not noticed any less dust with these pads than semi-metallic. I always replace them with semi-metallic when I do the next brake job because of this.

**bookeem** · 08-30-2007, 02:47 PM

just a note that i feel will be helpful to this article

depending on the pads u use, if oem , and they have no shim attatched to them, or in te box with them, i highly suggest u use CRC brake quiet on the back of the pads, or Permatex brake quiet on the back of the pads

those 2 products in particular, form a rubbery layer, and remains tacky to dampen vibrations due to not having the shims in place..

it took me damn near 6 months to track down my front end noise, and it ened up being the pads rattling in the caliper, do to them not having shims on the back of the oem pads, and the mopar brake quiet finally starting to break down and wear off the pads,after 30k miles and it caused my front end to sound like crap, from the pads rattling in the calipers..