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    txjeff's Avatar
    txjeff is offline The Cranky Yankee
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    Fog Light Bulb Replacement - Simple *

    Per Magnum8R + TXjeff:

    I simply turned the steering wheel to the lock left (to change passenger side bulb) to make some room on the front part of the wheel well, popped out the 3 rivets holding the wheel well flush, peeled it back a bit. QUICKO CHANGO! (note per TXJeff: The rivets in mine look like threaded screws. I pryed up a bit under the rivet with a flat head screwdriver to get the heads around an 1/8", and then took pointy nose pliers and grabbed under the head and hit down on the grips. Pop! It's out with no damage to the rivet. It's a bit of a squeeze to reach your hand in, so, since I was doing drivers side bulb, I held the flap with my right hand and reached with the left, to get the correct angle. On the other side it would be visa versa)

    You only need to remove the 3 plastic rivets to get room to install the new bulb. The rivets go right back in if you are carefull. (Note: edit on 4/28/07 - The rivets that I claimed are "pop" rivets are really simple push type butterfly rivets that are 25 cents apiece from the dealer. So you can either get those replacement type rivets, and you don't need a pop rivet gun, or the Xmas tree rivets I mentioned. I still like the Xmas tree ones better since they are easy to get out and put back in again.)

    Be carefull not to touch the glass portion. supposed to kill the bulb life. I suggest using a latex glove to avoid the risk of touching the glass part.

    Dodge sometimes uses a pop rivet which will break. If so, I suggest you order some Xmas Tree rivets first which simply push in and can be removed and pushed in multiple times. Most car dealers should carry these.

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    Last edited by txjeff; 04-28-2007 at 05:37 PM.
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  2. #2
    Johnny Vig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by txjeff View Post
    Per Magnum8R + TXjeff:

    I simply turned the steering wheel to the lock left (to change passenger side bulb) to make some room on the front part of the wheel well, popped out the 3 rivets holding the wheel well flush, peeled it back a bit. QUICKO CHANGO! (note per TXJeff: The rivets in mine look like threaded screws. I pryed up a bit under the rivet with a flat head screwdriver to get the heads around an 1/8", and then took pointy nose pliers and grabbed under the head and hit down on the grips. Pop! It's out with no damage to the rivet. It's a bit of a squeeze to reach your hand in, so, since I was doing drivers side bulb, I held the flap with my right hand and reached with the left, to get the correct angle. On the other side it would be visa versa)

    You only need to remove the 3 plastic rivets to get room to install the new bulb. The rivets go right back in if you are carefull.
    Be carefull not to touch the glass portion. supposed to kill the bulb life. I suggest using a latex glove to avoid the risk of touching the glass part.
    I was able to do everything easy but putting the rivets back in didn't work well. They are not as tight as they were before I took them out. They now go in loose. In order for them to be as tight as original you need to find a way to push the rivet from behind the hole opening so the screw inside the rivet goes into the plastic head of the rivet. (which is basically impossible).

    Just curious if you experienced the same thing. Thanks.

    p.s. In looking at the fog lamp replacement I can do the passenger side with ony removing the bottom rivet along with the push pin rivet at the very bottom of the wheel well.
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  3. #3
    txjeff's Avatar
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    NOTE: I'VE SINCE SUPPLIED A LINK AT THE END OF THE FIRST MESSAGE TO THE XMAS TREE RIVET.

    Hmmm.. Well, it is possible that there are different kinds of rivets. The ones I pulled out, as I mentioned, look just like a big sheet metal screw, with no slot in the head. So, it came out in one piece, and went back in very securely for me. But, there may be other types of rivets that actually break upon removal. Anticipating this, I bought 8 rivets for the wheel well from the dealer, but they gave me ones that are the type that go in a pop rivet gun, yet plastic. ?? So, if you can, I urge you to get the ones that look like the sheet metal screw. I actually went to the parts catalog that one LX guy supplied a link to, and it showed the very ones that I was sold at the dealer, like pop rivets. So, I'm guessing someone replaced mine with better ones. Don't ask me where they came from.

    How were you able to change one fog light by pulling only one rivet? Did you have to really wedge your hand in? It was a bit of a wedge doing it with all 3 rivets pulled.

    I'm sure if you visit a store like Home Depot in their screws area, you will find the type of rivet I'm describing.
    Last edited by txjeff; 12-24-2006 at 10:20 PM.
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  4. #4
    lowriderman3's Avatar
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    Thanks for this info! Waaaaaaaaaaay much easier than pulling the whole front bumper!



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  5. #5
    Johnny Vig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by txjeff View Post
    Hmmm.. Well, it is possible that there are different kinds of rivets. The ones I pulled out, as I mentioned, look just like a big sheet metal screw, with no slot in the head. So, it came out in one piece, and went back in very securely for me. But, there may be other types of rivets that actually break upon removal. Anticipating this, I bought 8 rivets for the wheel well from the dealer, but they gave me ones that are the type that go in a pop rivet gun, yet plastic. ?? So, if you can, I urge you to get the ones that look like the sheet metal screw. I actually went to the parts catalog that one LX guy supplied a link to, and it showed the very ones that I was sold at the dealer, like pop rivets. So, I'm guessing someone replaced mine with better ones. Don't ask me where they came from.

    How were you able to change one fog light by pulling only one rivet? Did you have to really wedge your hand in? It was a bit of a wedge doing it with all 3 rivets pulled.

    I'm sure if you visit a store like Home Depot in their screws area, you will find the type of rivet I'm describing.
    It was a tight fit with one rivet removed, but if you also remove the lower gromet along the bottom of the wheel well it allows for more flex. I held the flap open with one hand and reached in with the other. No problem at all. Thanks for the great info. It is what made my mind up in changing my fog lights. Having an SRT8 with all the bottom fascia to remove would have been a pain- this was cake compared to that.
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  6. #6
    joseph's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowriderman3 View Post
    Thanks for this info! Waaaaaaaaaaay much easier than pulling the whole front bumper!
    You're kidding, right!
    Who in hell would remove the whole bumper to access the fog lights when it can be accessed easily from the bottom once the plastic shroud is remove.
    It would be like taking out the engine just to access the oil filter

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    cadzilla74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joseph View Post
    You're kidding, right!
    Who in hell would remove the whole bumper to access the fog lights when it can be accessed easily from the bottom once the plastic shroud is remove.
    It would be like taking out the engine just to access the oil filter
    Sure, noooowww he tells me... Any pix on putting the engine back in?
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadzilla74 View Post
    Sure, noooowww he tells me... Any pix on putting the engine back in?

  9. #9
    lowriderman3's Avatar
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    I took mine off to put my HID's in my fogs though...You basically have to, so that you can properly mount the ballast for the HID's.



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    rtblue's Avatar
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    The clip is actually 2 pieces. One with the head on it (it kind of looks like a screw without the threads), and the other one looks like a washer with a "V" shaped plastic piece attached to it.

    1st line up the holes in the 2 panels you need to secure together.

    then push the "V" shaped piece into both holes.

    Then insert the screw looking piece into the opening of the already inserted piece. This piece spreads the "V" shaped piece, securing everything together.

    TADAAAAAA.....secured.

    Don't try to push both panels together and insert both plastic clips into the hole at the same time. It won't work.

    (It took me awhile to figure this out. I'm such a dumba$$)

  11. #11
    cadzilla74's Avatar
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    And a big thanks to txjeff for posting the "replacement instructions"....I just replaced a dead bulb and it took me all of 10 minutes plus one bulb for $16 and 3 Xmas tree rivets @ $1 each ... the dealer wanted what was probably a flat-rate $40 labor to do it....glad I pay attention around here...had a pretty good time spending that dough on fun stuff...
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    txjeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadzilla74 View Post
    And a big thanks to txjeff for posting the "replacement instructions"....I just replaced a dead bulb and it took me all of 10 minutes plus one bulb for $16 and 3 Xmas tree rivets @ $1 each ... the dealer wanted what was probably a flat-rate $40 labor to do it....glad I pay attention around here...had a pretty good time spending that dough on fun stuff...
    Thanks for the Kudos, but mostly the thanks should go to Magnum8R, who was shy about posting the idea in the KB. So I did, added a bit more detail, and expanded the info on the rivets.

    Shoot, I was getting ready to remove the oil pan and fascia to get at it until he chimed in.
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  13. #13
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    I'll give you $20 to come and change mine!
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    quarky42's Avatar
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    Pull the center pin out of the rivet completely.

    Place outer portion of pop rivet in hole... it should go in very easily.

    Replace the center pin of the rivet.

    Drive on.
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    txjeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeadooSandi View Post
    I'll give you $20 to come and change mine!
    If you have the parts, either me or Cadzilla would be glad to help. No charge.
    Some people are like Slinkies;
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    bring a smile to your face when
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