Changing your oil for first-timers *

[ccl088]

Anybody tried the Fram PH8A instead of the Fram PH16.Same filter but the PH8A is longer.Will the PH8A fit instead of the PH16 that it calls for since it's longer?

[frzn]

Remember...5w-20 unless the oil cap otherwise and save your receits as proof you change the oil.I havnt seen Mopar push the issue...but the Benz guys are a bunch of tight azz's and may challenge it.....cover your butts.

[Buck70]

When filling with the new oil, always pull the breather tube from the airbox end and plug/elevate it. When you put a funnel in the filler neck and dump oil in it, oil can/will push up into the tube and run into your airbox/CA tube. Poor design on the filler neck/vent tube combo, makes an oily mess of your air filter on the inside.
DB

[DakotaDave]

Remember...5w-20 unless the oil cap otherwise and save your receits as proof you change the oil.I havnt seen Mopar push the issue...but the Benz guys are a bunch of tight azz's and may challenge it.....cover your butts.

My cap says 10W-30.

[lafrad]

Anybody tried the Fram PH8A instead of the Fram PH16.Same filter but the PH8A is longer.Will the PH8A fit instead of the PH16 that it calls for since it's longer?

I wouldn't use fram. (for reasons that start flame wars, so I will leave it at that)

yes, the longer filters fit well.
I am running the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (which is an inch or two longer than stock mopar). Needs an extra 1/4-1/2 quart of oil in the engine, but it has MUCH more filter capacity (read: catches dirt for a longer period of time).

[lafrad]

I wouldn't use fram. (for reasons that start flame wars, so I will leave it at that)

yes, the longer filters fit well.
I am running the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (which is an inch or two longer than stock mopar). Needs an extra 1/4-1/2 quart of oil in the engine, but it has MUCH more filter capacity (read: catches dirt for a longer period of time).

Oh.. and you can get the Oil and Filter all from Wally-World (wal-mart) in one trip... much cheaper that way.

[Bubba's Dragon]

1. N-Series valve(with Nipple to accept hose) is not recommended for passenger cars with low ground clearance.

I guess no valve for my Magnum, but for you folks with normal height rides I might get one. But I dont like the idea of it popping open and all my oil gone gone gone!

[joseph]

I use K&N oil filters, they are HP, don't drain back, and have a 1 inch nut welded at the end of it, making it real easy to put on and remove.
This is the least expensive place I've found so far, only $8.50 http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilte...f4c7b722e6e0a8

[havoc1]

Thank goodness I found this--I thought maybe I was going crazy. I've done hundreds of oil changes on dozens of vehicles or engines, and I've NEVER had as much trouble getting a filter off as I have on my Magnum. They must have had a gorilla crank that thing on there at the factory before they dropped the engine in!

I started off with the mark I mod 0 hand, tried a set of tongs that I've used on stubborn filters in the past, moved to a metal cup-style socket adaptor (stripped/slipped), then a chain-link strap wrench and an open end wrench (can't get them in there to use properly). NO LUCK! The damned thing is all munged up and the clearances really stink. I gave up for the night and I'll probably go out there in the morning and either hammer a screwdriver through it or get that cup-style wrench back out and drill holes in it for self-starting sheet-metal screws. Unbelievable!

I can't believe a 15-minute job has taken all afternoon! Anyone got any other wild ideas?

[fnkychkn]

a good quality metal cup is what i use. never a problem.

btw, welcome to LXforums. glad you could join us.

[oldschool]

Thank goodness I found this--I thought maybe I was going crazy. I've done hundreds of oil changes on dozens of vehicles or engines, and I've NEVER had as much trouble getting a filter off as I have on my Magnum. They must have had a gorilla crank that thing on there at the factory before they dropped the engine in!

I started off with the mark I mod 0 hand, tried a set of tongs that I've used on stubborn filters in the past, moved to a metal cup-style socket adaptor (stripped/slipped), then a chain-link strap wrench and an open end wrench (can't get them in there to use properly). NO LUCK! The damned thing is all munged up and the clearances really stink. I gave up for the night and I'll probably go out there in the morning and either hammer a screwdriver through it or get that cup-style wrench back out and drill holes in it for self-starting sheet-metal screws. Unbelievable!

I can't believe a 15-minute job has taken all afternoon! Anyone got any other wild ideas?

Yes the o/c are a little quirky but the car will be just fine for you. Give it a little time and put some more miles on her and you will forget about your misadventures getting the first filter off. I use a metal cup like fnky mentioned with a long adjustable neck wrench and it gives me the room to remove a stubborn filter quick. It's all about just having the right tool for the job.



oldschool

[havoc1]

This is going to sound overly n00bish but...that damned filter isn't reverse threaded or something stupid like that is it? Don't think I've ever done one that was, but this would of course be the first...

[fnkychkn]

This is going to sound overly n00bish but...that damned filter isn't reverse threaded or something stupid like that is it? Don't think I've ever done one that was, but this would of course be the first...

lefty loosy, righty tighty.

[havoc1]

LOL, sure enough, the tool below is what I was finally able to break it loose with, using a 1/2" socket! I was dumbfounded when I failed to budge it with one of those cup/cruncher attachments. I wish I'd had a torque wrench to check it, because it was on there amazingly tight. Unbelievable!

[Dupie24]

My cap says 10W-30.

Then you don't have a 5.7L Hemi! Just kidding, but really, only the 5.7 has the 5/20w spec, its for the MDS.
BTW, I ordered one of the fumoto valves, looks like the way to go.