I'd first like to thank King Kong for tightening my oil filter from the factory...what a beast!!!! I had a strap wrench but ended up having to go get the metal socket to get that damn thing off! All in all it would have taken me about 30 minutes but having to go get the metal socket etc... ended up taking me 1 1/2 hour. Not shabby at all!
Thanks for the write up, I know how to change oil but it was nice getting under a new car and knowing where things were and what to expect etc...
Great post especially the part about the stuff shooting out about a foot when you remove the pan plug. I bought a 14" oil tray and and the oil hit the back wall of the pan when I pulled the plug. Could have been a big mess.
One note to add to the post is grease the 4 screws that hold the belly pan in place. Up here the salt attacks the threads and corrodes the hell out of them. Another six months and the screw clips would have been toast.
Thanks to all of you guys for the tips and tricks.
I guess not much has changed in the 5 years this thread has been here.
Just recieved a perfect 75,000 mile oil report on my wife's Charger 3.5L. Mobil1 10W30 and K&N or Mobil1 filters eveery 5,000 miles.............
One thing I learned from experience. Have a good light under the car with you and make sure the rubber seal fron the old filter isn't stuck to the filter housing. Also start the motor and check for leaks before you put the pan back on and take the car off of the jack stands.
Otherwise you have to jack the car back up when the oil sprays all over the garage floor............
2005 Magnesium Magnum SE ; R/T rims, R/T grille, and fog lights.
Just wanted to say thanks for these instructions. I decided to do my own oil change today and use Mobil 1 instead of letting the dealer do it with conventional oil. These instructions were solid and helped me to accomplish the task in very little time. About an hour.
In my case, it wasn't the first oil change....so the filter wasn't super tight. In fact, I got it out by hand without having to use a filter wrench of any type (dealer did previous oil change). The drain plug was a bit snug...but nothing a few taps from the hammer on the socket wrench didn't resolve. I made sure to have a large oil catch pan and kept it back a little ways.
As others said, I got 6.5qts back into the car and am right near the top of the safe line.
Another thank you. Changed mine today. Only spilt a few drops & that was on to a rag I laid down under the car. I opted to use the Fumoto valve with the nipple. Next oil change will be even easier. The oil filter came off with just my hands, new K&N went on the same way.
Here a pic of how the valve situates on the oil pan.
Last edited by JTSRT8; 10-22-2011 at 07:21 PM.
Johan tune,LMI Hammer,BBK85mm TB, BB GP300X4 res del,180 tstat,tranzformer,MTCM,DC Sports front strut bar,speedlogix rear arched strut bar,stack sway bars,getrag lsd conversion,Ipod interface,hard wired V1,15% tint,yellow fogs,Black grill,catch can,upgraded 10" sub & kicker amp
Great thread! thanks again, Hokie...I gotta admit I was a bit intimidated by the idea of doing something as simple as an oil change on our cars just because they're so...intimidating! After reading this thread, I ordered the Fumoto valve (nice) and the whole deal didn't take much longer than changing the oil on my 74 Chally. Listen to Fnkys's advice and get the metal filter wrench...the plastic ones ARE crap....
an oldie but a goody,
just had to order a new oil valve,
the one i have just started leaking....
got one for the pt cruiser too...
there are no strangers here, just friends you haven't met yet..
Highly recommend the drain valve. Just changed my oil with the valve installed. Been 5k miles. Easy..... EASY!!! put hose on nipple, drain right into container. It drains slow yes but it's so easy.