Used both, and there's still no direct evidence that the Powerbond units are the issue. Has anyone done proper analysis on the fractures?
What journal is that Scott?
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Ok I'm here with a question..
I have a high power stereo. Which is connected to a separate stereo battery, which is connected to car battery which is a yellow top. Also connected to the yellow top is a Air Ride system. I also have HID's and Halos, I still have the stock Alternator and my car has 100k miles on it.
I want to get a pulley but am concern that my old ALT might not be able to handle it..
If fact at car shows if I run my stereo/dvd and 5 monitors after a while car has problems starting up (turning over) and thats with a yellow top..
also my current performance set up is Slidewinder cam and street heads both from franks.. Both 4 yrs old now. and I have mopar long tubes and Borla 125 cat back.
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If your alternator is functioning properly now...a pulley is not going to alter that...
Have there been any failures with OEM crank shafts and the SLP pulley?
Anyone care to throw this into the mx?
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Wrong thread really, but I'll elaborate. Dimming headlights can be from other failures/partial failures, for example a battery not retaining a charge.
More likely...those who are experiencing dimming or flickering lights could also have likely pointed out...it's happening at the same beat as the music they are playing. As in the power demands of the stereo, or any other electrical system over-and-above is taxing the alternator's ability to keep up, and as result battery voltage is diminishing. A marginal battery (little charge-acceptance) with the OEM sound system could also(!) produce fluctuations.
Keep in mind once the vehicle is running the battery plays a very minor role. System voltage and current control is one of the PCM's jobs, which it does very efficiently (eg; controlling alternator duty cycle) as long as it has not been tasked with aftermarket systems (stereos, lights, TV's, drive motors for pneumatics, etc). It is wrong for anyone to assume "the system" can handle these extra electrical loads. Of course there is a margin...but in most cases folks are requesting, and expecting, way too much from it.
A properly (keyword) operating electrical system will not tax the charging system simply because an underdrive pulley was installed. Any additional electrical loads...all bets are off even with the OEM dampner in-play...
Last edited by Hemissary; 01-05-2012 at 03:29 PM.
Ill join the high jacking for a minute as well :-) When I breifly ran the SLP I noticed dimming lights and a voltage drop at idle as per my evic.. I dont run a fancy radio neon lights or airbags.. I just figured that the Alternator was designed for a certain Rpm to charge properly and I wasnt meeting that RPM.. SO I just lived with it..
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You of all people Scott should know that.. LOL That is why I asked the question
I currently run a large stereo, Halos, and Air Ride. At this time I have no dimming issues at all.
But I heard stores about UD Pulley making your ALT work harder and caused some issues.
I am planning to add a UD Pulley and wanted to confirm if this was true or just a myth.
I have even heard that upgrading to a higher amp ALT would be a good idea..
So being I have no issues now I will not have any issues when I install a UD Pulley
Thank you for your input.. ..
I'm pretty blunt too :^)
For the record my 05' has fluctuating headlights since it was new...just ever so slightly but detectable to my old eyes. After installing HIR's (more current consumption) those fluctuations did not get worse (or better). For the record, HID's usually reduce current consumption over OEM halogens...