Fram Oil Filter #?

**BMW_killa** · 10-09-2005, 04:44 PM

Anyone know the oil filter # for fram for the 6.1?

**The_Bishop** · 10-09-2005, 06:27 PM

Yeah. It's part number: "Don't put this hunk of crapola in your car"

Fram filters are some of the very worst filters ever created.

Good oil resource:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...html#fram-ph8a
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilter-fram1.txt
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

**kudasai** · 10-09-2005, 08:32 PM

i dotn even have to read the links to know bishop is right. they use the cheapest rubber for the bypass valve that fails in colder weather, and the end caps are made out of cardboard.

worthless filter.

best off the shelf one is the mobil 1 synth. and any auto parts store can tell you the right part number for it

**70GT6** · 10-09-2005, 09:22 PM

Forget the Fram - go for the Mobil or K&N (both are made by the same company)

Actually the bypass on the Fram isnt even rubber, it is cardboard.

**Magneeto** · 10-09-2005, 09:49 PM

I'm using NAPA Gold oil filters made by Wix and Castrol GTX 5w-20 on the RT. I did a lotta of hotshotting around Houston,put alotta miles on some trucks I think regular oil changes go long way toward engine life as much as what you use. I tried to say that as unoffensive as I could.LOL.High dollar syn oil and filters and 3,000 mile changes seems extravagant. JMO, but the Frams are crap!

**70GT6** · 10-09-2005, 10:37 PM

Originally Posted by Magneeto

I'm using NAPA Gold oil filters made by Wix and Castrol GTX 5w-20 on the RT. I did a lotta of hotshotting around Houston,put alotta miles on some trucks I think regular oil changes go long way toward engine life as much as what you use. I tried to say that as unoffensive as I could.LOL.High dollar syn oil and filters and 3,000 mile changes seems extravagant. JMO, but the Frams are crap!

Used to think that too - until I worked on an engine that used syn oil. Had to do a leaky valve cover gasket - and the inside of the engine was damn new new looking. Even with regular oil changes with regular oil there seems to always be sludge build-up.

**bigjim** · 10-10-2005, 09:16 AM

"Even with regular oil changes with regular oil there seems to always be sludge build-up.

I had the oppurtunity to see the inside of my 3.5 liter in my Intrepid a few months back when I decided to start using it for road trips and airport parking during trips instead of leaving the Magnum in the parking lots for air trips. The valve covers leaked a bit and there was some question about a possible broken crankshaft (broken flexplate was the trouble). Inside the valve covers and pan there was clean steel, no sludge at all. The rocker area and the nooks in the top of the head were spotless. The rear main seal leaked a bit (never enough to have to add oil between changes [6500 miles]but enough to spot the driveway). I changed the rear main when I pulled the tranny to get at the flex plate and put in new valve cover gaskets. This engine sees the redline on every run outside of town, this most likely helps prevent the sludge as it moves alot of oil at 6200 rpm.

This car has 200,000 miles on it and shows no signs of stopping. I have run synthetic blend and purolator filters for the five years and 160,000 miles I put on it. I practice fluid maintenance a bit more than the book says is needed (tranny fluid in the original tranny every 20,000) and brake fluid flush annualy (dot4).

The point of this is that not all engines have a sludge problem, the cars that never get to temp for long enough will have more sludge than road cars like mine.