So, one of the standard mods I used to do on a mustang was go from a steel drive shaft, to an aluminum DS. What are ours made of, and would it be worth swapping it out for a lighter DS?
Did you ever actually see acceleration gains from a aluminum drive shaft swap in your mustangs? I know it lightens the rotating weight, but it's not a 20-22" rim, it's only 3-4" diameter right? I honestly don't know since I've never done a drive shaft swap before.
Challenger Mods: PWR 393, Mean Street heads, Procharger D1 pushing 11+psi, SHR Nag1, DSS 1400 axles and drive shaft, SHR trans but with Paramount Dominator and stage2 valve body to finally be error code/limp mode free. BBS CH-R's and custom splitter with 2011 front spoiler. AAC SMD halos, 3K fog lights, white stripes, cervini wing, hotchkis springs, custom 10" sub w/ kicker amp, sequential tail lights.
2009 Dodge Challenger SRT8 Procharger D1 Supercharger: 10.895 @ 126.720 MPH
The half shafts are so short that I don't see any advantage of going to a lighter metal, besides - no one makes any for our cars, do they?
Update: I was thinking about half shafts, NOT the driveshaft.
My error.........must have been half asleep on this one.
Having a senior moment.......:-)
Last edited by FloridaRT; 02-17-2007 at 07:55 AM. Reason: add info
Bob in Ocala, Florida (a 73 year old guy who loves cars), 05' Magnum RT. Many mod's, all of Danko Products and a few from 402 Motoring.
Have owned my share of 12 & 13 second cars, am happy now with my stock RT.
Aluminum drive shaft are all about saving weight and that is pretty much it.
For our cars not practical because of one half(rod) of the setup...not typical shaft you think about with one diameter tube through out shaft. Has Universal joint right above the suitcase muffler....one half is like the typical drive shaft all know and the other half is like a steel rod.
Last edited by Carfinish; 02-16-2007 at 09:42 AM.
12.869 @ 102.02 Stock 5.7 w/ C&L, Predator, JBA Cats, Volant catback, 3.06 Getrag, DRs & skinnies
For what it's worth, people have been problems with Ram's... they have Al driveshafts and a couple people have reported shattering theirs... something about improper heat treatment and the resonant frequency of the shafts can be hit at the right speed. You'd be looking at a custom shaft for the LX though. Due to the U-joint in the middle I don't know how much weight you could actually save, unless you could do away with it due to modified exhaust.
I DRINK ROYAL PURPLE! WHAT NOW?!
> 2006 Silver SRT-8 magnum, adopted 9/9/06 with 36 miles, groups I, II, &III.
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All of the driveshafts I've taken off have been lightweight to begin with. They were hollow not solid. Doesn't seem like you would save much weight (a couple of pounds) before you weakened the shaft or created a problem with high speed operation.
'06 300C SRT8 - Now where did I put that camera...
Only thing I can see is ditching the two piece shaft for a 1 piece.That center bearing is a nightmare waiting to happen.
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Some guys did this with their CTS-V's on the Caddy forum. They converted a two piece to one piece. The driveshaft was cryogenically frozen for added strength and cost in excess of $1,000. Don't know that it was lighter, but it was a helluva lot stronger.
^^What he said, a custom shaft rated for 700-800hp shouldn't run more than $600-$700 tops... not for the older cars anyway, I can't imagine ours would be different unless we have funky lobes on 'em.
I guess If I wanted to save weight, I wouldn't have gone with the 22's either...lol. I just figured we could get a little less unsprung weight out of a lighter DS. I didn't know they were made in two segments. We could always go for some CF drive shafts!!!