The 1 everyone loves to hate
2007 Dodge Charger R/t Matte Black,LMI legmaker TRUE CAI ,SLP LM2,6k HIDs 10k Fogs,JBA Shorties ,Red/White Halos,Black viper rims,Billet Catch Can,EGR Delete,Diablo Trinty,,Razors edge strut tower,Sidewinder cam,Slp underdrive pulley,Magna High flow cats,6.1 valves an rods,GTP Stage 1 head Milled ,3.06 rear,Custom tune from the TOONA himself
Just ordered these today. We shall see how it goes.
If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying? If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
^^ let me know how they work out man. Congrads.
Any coil overs will ride better than a stock set up. I installed the BC's on my Charger and went with the Eibach adjustable UCA's and the ride/handling is like night to day. The BC's have extensions for rear shock adjustments and appear to be well made....... Time will tell.
i just installed today so far so good. rides great. smashed my hand so typing is hard. i'd recommend based on initial impressions. ride like my STs did on my magnum. Great value if you don't need dampening adjustability like most of us don't.
For my needs, it's a 10 out of 10. But, I only wanted lower and new shocks. For those that want to adjust dampening, they wouldn't be a 10 and i admit that. And value is very important to me. The ride is amazing, just like all coilovers should be. Install was pretty straightforward. Only one snaffoo.... I broke my finger when I was holding the control arm and taking out the bottom strut bolt. It was my own damn fault, but still.... Live and learn.
A buddy helped me do it in his Air Conditioned garage and we took all day 8-4. But also made parts runs, test run after doing the rears, etc... Best to plan for a full day if you're doing it at home.
I had nivomats on the rear, and getting those shocks off was a pain because they won't compress at all. There are two ways to do the back, you can either drop the entire cradle, or you can drop the lower control arm. I did the lower control arm, some say that's the harder way, but actually, it wasn't bad at all.
Tools, I used air tools, and highly recommend that. I used only 1/2" drive metric sockets ranging from size 15 thru 21. Both a 4" and 10" extension were pretty handy to have. Screwdrivers or a PB12 bar for lining up bolt holes, etc... Rented a Spring compressor and pickle fork at auto zone, get full refund when you return them. 2- 2and1/4 ton jacks, 2 jackstands (to do both front or both rear at same time), razor knife to cut original dust boot off of strut mount for the fronts, tape measure to calculate and set ride height. And a small metric allen wrench to tighten the strut adjustor. Oh, and did need an adjustable wrench for the large bottom strut nut that replaces the original. I'm pretty sure that's it on tools. Pretty basic and not too many really.
Fronts are definitely "easier" than the rear.
To adjust it I first measured the wheelwell opening at each tire. 2 methods to do this, floor to wheelwell if you're on nice flat level surface with equally aired tires, or center of center cap to wheelwell opening. I wanted to lower 1" in rear, and 1 and 1/4" in front. I looked at the drop ranges on the website for the new springs, and just raised the adjusters the appropriate amount to leave the drop I wanted. Take your time think long, think twice, do it only once. I you have the tools and patience it isn't bad at all. I suggest having someone to help, so when you crush your hand between the strut and control arm and break your finger, there is someone there to hand you the tools you need to pry the strut off you. =) LOL
I bought a set of these at spring fest this year. Finally got the rest of my ducks in a row, along with the coilovers I picked up a 3.73 Getrag, and an Edge TC. I finally got my 226mm half shafts and now I'm just arranging a time for the big install. Do it all at once was the plan, and its been killing me to have half the parts just sitting collecting dust.
I'm very interested to see how they handle, I'll post back here once I get everything in.
Mods: Mopar CAI, SLP Underdrive Pulley, Milled Performance Heads & Spartan Camshaft from Inertia Motorsports, JBA Shorty Headers, Magnaflow Catback & High Flow Cats, 3.73 Getrag differential, Edge High Stall Torque Converter, Zex Nitrous Kit & Street Edge Coilovers. iPad dash mod
After reading through this thread and needing to replace the front and rear this has me thinking. I'm not going to the track/strip, no need to do that much adjustment.
I do still rate them the same. I haven't had any clunking, noises of any sort, or anything. Well other than the sound of the front cradle freaking bottoming out everywhere I go. LOL.
I'll try to piece together a before and after. Haven't really cleaned the car other than drive thru car washes because of the broken finger, and then had hernia surgery the next week, so washing the car for proper pics hasn't happened. LOL
Here's a before and after. Similar levels of dirtyness:
That looks pretty damn good. What's the color of the car? Looks different somehow.
Pedator, CAI, MDS indicator, ESP/BAS defeat switch, Tranzformer, blacked out wire mesh grille, smoked and flashing side markers, 9005 2400k 65W fogs, Euro rear fogs, debadged and demolded, 255/45/20 Nitto 420's, Boss 338 wheels, painted calipers. Glovebox & cup holder LED Mod. Blastin Bob 6db reso delete pipes. Euro LED side signal repeaters, 55/35 window tint, BT catch can. Color matched tail lights. Custom front lip. LED interior lighting.
Next: Lower with BCR Coilovers.