Replaced the tie rods on Wednesday and I still can hear something making noise when hitting bumps in the road - sounds like the right front but I can't find anything else loose. Has anyone had to replace anything more than tie rods? I'm at 40,000
Replaced the tie rods on Wednesday and I still can hear something making noise when hitting bumps in the road - sounds like the right front but I can't find anything else loose. Has anyone had to replace anything more than tie rods? I'm at 40,000
05' Magnum R/T HEMI Registry #889 CAI, JBA Ceramic headers- CAT back, Mopar TCM, Preditor , MDS indicator, ESP Mod. HALOS
Aus liebe zum Automobile "Out of Love for the Automobile"
Did you replace the bushings on the swaybars? That was the first thing I did when I heard noise, 12$ later problem fixed.
nope, but i will check that out later, thanks
05' Magnum R/T HEMI Registry #889 CAI, JBA Ceramic headers- CAT back, Mopar TCM, Preditor , MDS indicator, ESP Mod. HALOS
Aus liebe zum Automobile "Out of Love for the Automobile"
TORSION bar bushings may be bad/upper control arm bolts may be loose/shock tower bar bolts may be loose.
Think about how stupid the average person is..
Then realize half of them are dumber than that
INNER OR OUTER TIE RODS. FRONT TENSION STRUTS R COMMON FOR THE BUSHINGS TO CRACK AND CAUSE NOISE ALSO.U WILL BE ABLE TO SEE THE CRACKS.
REMOVAL
<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">1.Raise and support vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .2.Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).3.Remove belly pan (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/BELLY PAN - Removal) .
<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">4.Loosen nut (3) attaching tension strut (2) ball joint stud to knuckle. Back nut off until nut is even with end of stud. Keeping nut on at this location will help keep end of stud from distorting while using Puller in next step.
<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">![]()
CAUTION: In following step, use care not to damage ball joint seal boot while sliding Puller, Special Tool 9360, into place past seal boot.
5.Using Puller (1), Special Tool 9360, separate tension strut ball joint stud (2) from knuckle.
<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">6.Remove nut (3) from end of tension strut (2) ball joint stud.7.Rotate knuckle outward and push ball joint upward, out of knuckle.
<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">![]()
CAUTION: If the tension strut bolt at the engine cradle has a lengthwise grooved shaft (2), it is a special wheel alignment adjustment bolt and the bolt head (1) must not be rotated in the vehicle or damage to the bolt and engine cradle will result. While holding the bolt in place with a wrench, remove the nut, then slide the bolt out of the bushing and cradle taking note of bolt positioning in engine cradle for reassembly purposes. The bolt needs to be installed in the same position as removed to make sure wheel camber and caster return to adjusted position.
<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">8.Remove nut and bolt (2) securing tension strut (1) to engine cradle (3).9.Slide tension strut out of cradle bracket and remove from vehicle.
2007 Charger Road & Track R/T
Linuxrc, where did you get just the bushings for $12?
Fuzycali, thanks for the photos
05' Magnum R/T HEMI Registry #889 CAI, JBA Ceramic headers- CAT back, Mopar TCM, Preditor , MDS indicator, ESP Mod. HALOS
Aus liebe zum Automobile "Out of Love for the Automobile"
I'd look to the tension strut bushings, #4 in the diagram below. When you look at the front bushing, you might see something like this
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PPP stage 3 heads, Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 +4, ported 6.1 intake, MMPG 85mm throttle body, MSD "Blaster" coils, JBA headers & mids, Corsa exhaust, Paramount "Dominator" torque converter & stage 2 valve body, BC Racing coilovers, Eibach sways, BWoody links, Razorsedge brace, 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD, Wilwood "plus 2" big brake kit by TCE


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