NOS How it works???

[Redfox0099]

http://www.tbyrne.com/300Ccatalog.html


So I am looking here (a site vendor mind you) and am trying to figure this nitrous thing out.

1. Remote bottle opener- you can't leave it open all the time?

2. Is this a "wet" kit or a "dry" kit? A dry kit is hell if a lot easier to install right?


What can the Hemi handle in regards to a shot of NOS? Is it worth it?

Please forgive the fact I don't know anything about this subject, I havr read some of the other posts but haven't found all the answers I wanted.

[snickle]

I am not an expert. Heck I have never had the guts.

I do not know of a dry system yet. All I have seen for our cars are wet.

You should not leave the bottle open for safety and leakage reasons.

The HEMI can handle a decent shot if done right. But this car is very sensitive to premature detonations.

[mikesos1]

That kit is a wet kit. I recommend a wet kit for the LX cars at this point because we have no way to tune the computer. Nitrous needs fuel enrichment (this is where the power comes from) and we cannot add fuel with the injectors at this point. The wet kit adds fuel at the nitrous nozzle.

Nitrous only makes power with extra fuel, it itself does not burn. It allows cooler more dense air in the engine and when combined with a properly metered amount of fuel makes more power.

Now the pros and cons of "wet" and "dry". The dry kit is much safer because fuel is added at the injector(with computer tuning). This eleminates the dreaded "Nitrous Backfire". The wet kit is more risky because it adds fuel at the nozzle. Fuel can puddle in the lower intake and BANG, a "Nitrous Backfire". However, with properly set up systems the chance of a backfire can be reduced. NEVER hook up a wet kit to a simple button, like in the movies. You should have a ARM switch to activate the system and a WOT(wide open throttle) switch to spray the system. That way it can ONLY spray when your foot is to the floor.

You cannot leave the bottle open all the time, this is a big saftey hazzard. The bottle pressure will be ideally around 900-1200 psi. You do not want all that pressure in the lines all the time. I also recommend a blow-down tube. The bottles have a safty pressure switch that will blow open if the pressure gets too high, the blow-down tube routes that pressure out of the car through the floor. Bottle pressure will rise as the bottle gets hot, there is a threshold where the bottle could burst, the safty prevents that.

I would stay under 100hp shot, these cars do not have forged pistons so that number is safe. I have seen plenty of 5.0 Mustangs with non-forged pistons handle considerably more than 100, but it's a gamble.

Wow, that was long, sorry. Oh, Check out the Zex kits. They have a integrated module that controls the system, much easier to install and very safe.

Hope this helps and good luck. Nitrous is no doubt worth it if done right. There is nothing quite like a extra 100-200 ponies at the touch of a button, the "hit" is allot of fun,

Mike

[Stonebreaker]

The zex kit is good for a small (under 100 hp) shot of nitrous. It gets its extra fuel by increasing your fuel pressure so more squirts out through the injectors.

Nitrous is worth it if you only use it occaisionally. It costs about $4 a pound in most places, so a 10 lb tank that will give you between 1 and 2 minutes' worth of power depending on the size of your shot, costs $40 to fill. So it's not any cheaper than a supercharger, but it's kind of pay-as-you-go.

There are a couple of things you need in addition to the basic kit. I would look into some kind of booster pump for your fuel system, and I would also get an air/fuel ratio safety switch that shuts the nitrous off if the A/F ratio gets too lean.

You also need a window switch that will turn the nitrous on at a preset rpm and only at WOT, and turns the nitrous off just before the shift to preserve the trans.

These guys develop their own nitrous accessories and some of it's pretty innovative: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...ts/default.asp

[mikesos1]

Window switch is a good idea too. Added measure of safety.

The factory narrow band O2's are not very accurate, I would not trust the A/F shutoff unless it's connected to a wide band O2 sensor. I do like that Fuel Pressure cutoff though, very cool. Those guys make some neat stuff.

Mike