Jaak Paddle Hack Kit..Install questions

[Cheatek]

Unplug the cable going to the lockout board. You should have just the plug from the console shifter pluged into the adapter board, black wires on the SAME SIDE, and the supplied plug back into the shifter. Check the Autostick, it should be working. If not unplug the black plug from the adapter board and plug back into the shifter, does it work?
Now unplug the black plug and install the supplied plug into the shifter and plug the black plug into the adapter board, leave the cable from the lockout unpluged. Check the auto stick, it should be working. Also check that you have the supplied plug insterted in the shifter correctly, the black wire has to be oriented the same as the black plugs black wire. Look at post #5 for pictures.

Yeah, sorry - you're exactly right. I forget the orientation of it, but there's only one way it'll go. But that's the spot.

Ok guys could really use some help now, the paddles still don't work and I checked the wiring at the steering wheel and it's all good. Also checked the power (with an ohm meter) up to and through the clockspring connector to where the finished yellow/blue paddle wires connects to and it's good. And I had already checked the wiring at the shifter adapter and it's all good. Argh!

I had the same problem as torRed #1169 where the airbag pinched the yellow/blue wire and cut it. I fixed that and really thought that was gonna do it but no, still nothing from the paddles. Autostick mode works but nothing from the paddles. (do you have to drive around some before they start working? or reset the pcm or tcm or anything like that?)

Help, not sure what to do now. I'm currently bypassing the lockout board because with it connected the autostick doesn't work (bad board maybe, any thoughts?), but would bypassing the board make the paddles not work for some reason?

Any suggestions/help would REALY be appreciated at this point.

[Junior]

I forget, as it's been a while since I had my hands on one, but is it possible to bypass the mainboard altogether for testing? i.e. could you go take the leads that connect to the clockspring directly to the mini board?

When you buy the $9 kit, without the lockout board, the mini board simply branches the autostick contacts to add the two new contacts (the paddles). I forget if the connectors are different on the lockout board version vs. the mini board version...


Can you take the leads from the clockspring directly to this, as you do when you buy the kit without the lockout board?

[Cheatek]

I forget, as it's been a while since I had my hands on one, but is it possible to bypass the mainboard altogether for testing? i.e. could you go take the leads that connect to the clockspring directly to the mini board?

When you buy the $9 kit, without the lockout board, the mini board simply branches the autostick contacts to add the two new contacts (the paddles). I forget if the connectors are different on the lockout board version vs. the mini board version...


Can you take the leads from the clockspring directly to this, as you do when you buy the kit without the lockout board?

What I meant by "bypass" is just temporarily rigging together (with some wire splicing) the harness cable that runs from the shifter adapter up to the lockout board ... to the harness cable that runs from the steering wheel (clockspring connector) to the lockout board. That's all. Connect those 2 directly to remove the board.

It was just a quicky connection to see if I still was having problems with autostick mode ... which I wasn't, it works fine, so that tells me it's the lockout board in some way. Still waiting for plcman to tell me what he thinks.

Any ideas on why the paddles aren't working?

[plcman]

What I meant by "bypass" is just temporarily rigging together (with some wire splicing) the harness cable that runs from the shifter adapter up to the lockout board ... to the harness cable that runs from the steering wheel (clockspring connector) to the lockout board. That's all. Connect those 2 directly to remove the board.

It was just a quicky connection to see if I still was having problems with autostick mode ... which I wasn't, it works fine, so that tells me it's the lockout board in some way. Still waiting for plcman to tell me what he thinks.

Any ideas on why the paddles aren't working?

Sorry I am on the road you do not have the Lin ground connected at the wheel. Unplug the cable from the steering wheel that connectects to the lockout leave the cable from the adapter now look at the board and look at the black and red plug. All the paddles do is ground the respective pin either up or down and this is all the lockout does use a test wire to the up input and then check the connection at the adapter does it ground?

[magic32]

the up shift paddle on my buddies car that i wired fell off. the wires are sticking out of the wheel but no paddle. can i just put them back on the paddle or do i need a new paddle. he accidently pushed on the paddle instead of pulled, in all his excitement. second time he used them.

[plcman]

the up shift paddle on my buddies car that i wired fell off. the wires are sticking out of the wheel but no paddle. can i just put them back on the paddle or do i need a new paddle. he accidently pushed on the paddle instead of pulled, in all his excitement. second time he used them.

Depends if the pc board in the paddle is damaged. Also he could have broken the paddle mount.

[plcman]

The way this system works is the paddles ground the selected mode either up or down. You can check the paddles with a Ohm meter make sure the red and black 3 pin harness, grounds when the selected paddle is pressed this needs to be unplged to check this properly. Put your meter on either the red or the black and the other probe to ground. The selected paddle should ground only when the paddle is pressed. If you do not get a ground or the paddle is grounded continuously then the problem is in the wheel.

Next unplug the 3 pin harness, only, from the lockout board. Now from the pin that the red wire was attached ground this pin, and check the output at the adapter board. From the black wire to the blue or yellow it should now have a low ohm reading when the paddle is pressed and only when the paddle is pressed the car ignition must be on, it does not need to be running. Check the black wire also in the same manner. The lockout board mimics the mechanical shifter by using 2 relays to lockout the other mode when both are selected at the same time. The relays also ground the selected pin yellow or blue to select either up or down.

I hope this helps to trouble shoot the problems you may be having.

Raymond
raymond@plcmanguy.com
904-571-0889 cell.

[plcman]

I forget, as it's been a while since I had my hands on one, but is it possible to bypass the mainboard altogether for testing? i.e. could you go take the leads that connect to the clockspring directly to the mini board?

When you buy the $9 kit, without the lockout board, the mini board simply branches the autostick contacts to add the two new contacts (the paddles). I forget if the connectors are different on the lockout board version vs. the mini board version...


Can you take the leads from the clockspring directly to this, as you do when you buy the kit without the lockout board?

This is not made any longer.

[Cheatek]

All's good guys, got em working and everything's great! Here's a couple quick pix ...




Did a track day yesterday at Laguna Seca and I can't even begin to describe how much better having the paddles is, just night and day!

Thanks again to everyone for helping! Junior THANKS!! And Raymond ... I pm'd you ... THANK YOU IMMENSLY!!!!!!!

[Junior]

What did you figure out! Let us know, so we can better help.

[Cheatek]

What did you figure out! Let us know, so we can better help.

I was having 2 issues ... one with losing the autostick mode when the lockout board was connected (bypassing the board made it work fine) and 2, the paddles just weren't working. Ended up having my friend's brother stop by and take a look, he's an electrical engineer and he fixed it all.

Now sorry but I get a little lost in all this electrical stuff so I'm not EXACTLY sure what he did but he was basically checking all the connections from the shifter up through the steering wheel to the paddles with an ohm meter. I don't think I had any of the wiring wrong as I don't think he changed anything but I'm not sure, it was hard to follow along cause he was going so fast (he's one of those guys that doesn't know the word slow, haha).

I'm not real sure why I was having problems with the lockout board as he got it to work fine but my guess is I messed up in the wiring somewhere even though it's pretty hard to mess it up.

On the paddles not working it turns out the down was working but the up wasn't. The up was fried like when you check it with a test light (I saw inside the paddle). I didn't do it though, I don't even own a test light but somehow it got fried.

Anyway he took the paddle apart and FIXED it! I'm not precisely sure how but I think he reconnected the fried wiring on the little circut board inside (building circuit boards is his actual job).

So for others that might have problems I say be sure to check the paddles for continuity with an OHM meter and also check all the wiring from the shifter up to the paddles. I really think the kit you guys came up with is AWESOME, a little daunting having to dismantle the car like that and tapping into wiring here and there but it's really straight forward and simple when you come down to it, just might need some help if you're not electrically inclined like me, haha!

[plcman]

I am glad everything worked out, and thanks for the kudos!

[Cheatek]

One other thing I should add to my last post because it's kinda important and others have apparently had the same problem ... when the steering wheel wiring is all finished and you're putting it all back together be sure to route the finished paddle shifter yellow/blue wire plug that connects to the clockspring in a way that the back of the airbag WON'T pinch it or cut it when you put the airbag back on.

That was my problem, I didn't even look, I just pluged the wires in and put the airbag back on and tightened it up. Wrong. Hold the airbag up in place and look behind it to see where to best route the yellow/blue plug wires away from the backside of the airbag so it doesn't pinch the wires and cause the paddles not to work. My 2 cents.

[Junior]

^^^ ****. It's happened to me once before too - and for whatever reason, I either thought you had already looked up there, or...

Sorry man, that could have saved you some frustration. Same damn thing happened to me on one install, with the same symptoms.

[Cheatek]

^^^ ****. It's happened to me once before too - and for whatever reason, I either thought you had already looked up there, or...

Sorry man, that could have saved you some frustration. Same damn thing happened to me on one install, with the same symptoms.

You know what tho, as soon as I pulled the airbag off the first time to check the wiring I saw the blue wire pinched and cut, it was obvioius. No worries, but might I make a suggestion ... add another pic or a bit more info to your steering wheel wiring thread (which is AWESOME btw) at the end to say (for us dumb folks like me, lol) where the finished yellow/blue wires plug into AND also to be sure to route the wires so the airbag won't pinch them. 2 cents.

And Junior, thanks again for the help man, I appreciate everything and everyone around here!!