Jaak Paddle Hack Kit..Install questions

**plcman** · 08-23-2008, 03:31 PM

If you have install questions or want to post about your install please post here.

**plcman** · 08-23-2008, 03:31 PM

I suggest that the wheel's be straight before you start, take pictures before you disassemble any thing, and as you go. The clock spring has to click back into place on the column shaft, it will take a little force. Take a pencil and mark the position of the plastic hosing that holds the SCM (how deep it is in the column plastic housing). This way you will know that it is reseated.

The service manual has a fair explanation.

**plcman** · 08-28-2008, 11:06 PM

Bump

**torRed #1169** · 08-31-2008, 09:28 PM

Finished my install today and obviously I did something wrong cause it's not working.

Here's what I got so far:
Light on the safety switch that comes with this kit lights up.
Car drives fine and there are no lights on the dash.
Whether I press one of the paddles or push the shifter nothing happens.

Tomorrow I'll have to go over all connections.
Any ideas what could be wrong ??

Does the relay have to be hooked up for this to work?

**plcman** · 09-01-2008, 12:00 AM

Originally Posted by torRed #1169

Finished my install today and obviously I did something wrong cause it's not working.

Here's what I got so far:
Light on the safety switch that comes with this kit lights up.
Car drives fine and there are no lights on the dash.
Whether I press one of the paddles or push the shifter nothing happens.

Tomorrow I'll have to go over all connections.
Any ideas what could be wrong ??

Does the relay have to be hooked up for this to work?

No the relay just enables the solenoid. Did you check the switch function with a meter or a light to ground. You can disconnect the paddle harness at the PC board to check this. If you tighten the paddles too tight the switches do not work.
Now you also say that the shifter does not work, did you follow the picture as to the location on the adapter board as below. You say the safety switch light comes on so you have power at the PC board. This board is the jumper location for the shifter. You could unplug the connection to the PC board from this and the shifter handle will still work.

**torRed #1169** · 09-01-2008, 12:17 AM

Yeah I'm thinking that it's something simple that I overlooked but with a party to attend to I didn't have time to take everything apart again.

One more quick question:
Can you shift with the paddles and the shifter or do the paddles make the shifter inoperable.(I think I've seen the answer to this somewhere.

Also on the solenoid I think I found a typo in your directions.
"The board drives the relay coil, and the relay contacts drive the solenoid. Wire the red wire to the terminal 85 and the black to the terminal 86. This will be the White and Black wires on the relay harness. Butt splice the red to the White and The Black to the Black.

On your relay the black wire is attached to 85 and white to 86 which would make - red to black and black to white.

**plcman** · 09-01-2008, 12:28 AM

Yes you can shift with them both at the same time.

The 2 wires to the relay from the board are red and black. The wires on the Relay are White and Black. 85 on the relay is black and 86 is white. You are correct, I made a mistake. The red from the board should go to 86 on the relay or white. It is just a silk screening issue on the circuit board. The correct hookup is red to white (at relay) and black to (black of relay). I fixed the instructions to reflect the proper terminals and wire color. If any one needs this send me your email and I will forward.

raymond@plcmanguy.com

**torRed #1169** · 09-01-2008, 12:13 PM

All is well in the world again.

I started troubleshooting at the shifter jumper board.Then at the PC board.
It would shift as long as the cable from the paddles was not plugged in the board.
So I took the air bag off and noticed that the wire (Blue and yellow that you plug into the clock spring) was pinched by the 10mm bolt that attaches from the back to the air bag.

Fix that problem and it works great.

I had a feeling it was a bad connection but I thought it was going to be at the 14 pin connector on the back.

**plcman** · 09-01-2008, 12:16 PM

That is good news!!

**wheelgarage** · 09-08-2008, 02:36 AM

I finally had ONE day to myself. And I decided to do the mod. I spent an hour to pull apart the dash and the arm rest assy.

It didnt help that I had a sinus headache this morning. I had to take some meds...sleep it off for a few hours, then back to the car.

I did have an issue with wiring the paddles. The directions stated to use the LIN cable (wire color), but no picture to support it. Luckily, there was another post of the LIN cable.

After installing the paddles and plugging everything back in, I tested the system. I worked the first time out!!!

Yes...THANKS!!!...best upgrade to date...!!!

**plcman** · 09-08-2008, 11:48 AM

I'm glad everything worked out!

**Cheatek** · 07-17-2009, 12:19 AM

Hey, dragged this thread out of mothballs hopin to get some help.

Just installed my paddle shifters with the help of Junior's great install thread. I was VERY thorough and precise (took ALL day long) yet they're not working. I also get the ESP, BAS and traction contol off lights in the dash and I've lost my autostick feature as well (can't upshift or downshift myself).

My guess is I got the wiring messed up somewhere down by the shifter. I do have the lockout board (withOUT the line lock feature) but I'm pretty sure I got it hooked up right (instructions were a little vague in that area).

I'm gonna take the center console out tomorrow and check the shifter connections again (as well as the pink 12v wire connection) but any suggestions would be helpful.

Question, if that pink 12v connection wire for the board isn't connected to a power source like I thought it was would that cause the problems I'm experiencing?

Thanks for the help!

**plcman** · 07-17-2009, 01:25 AM

Unplug the cable going to the lockout board. You should have just the plug from the console shifter pluged into the adapter board, black wires on the SAME SIDE, and the supplied plug back into the shifter. Check the Autostick, it should be working. If not unplug the black plug from the adapter board and plug back into the shifter, does it work?
Now unplug the black plug and install the supplied plug into the shifter and plug the black plug into the adapter board, leave the cable from the lockout unpluged. Check the auto stick, it should be working. Also check that you have the supplied plug insterted in the shifter correctly, the black wire has to be oriented the same as the black plugs black wire. Look at post #5 for pictures.

**Cheatek** · 07-17-2009, 03:11 PM

Originally Posted by plcman

Unplug the cable going to the lockout board. You should have just the plug from the console shifter pluged into the adapter board, black wires on the SAME SIDE, and the supplied plug back into the shifter. Check the Autostick, it should be working. If not unplug the black plug from the adapter board and plug back into the shifter, does it work?
Now unplug the black plug and install the supplied plug into the shifter and plug the black plug into the adapter board, leave the cable from the lockout unpluged. Check the auto stick, it should be working. Also check that you have the supplied plug insterted in the shifter correctly, the black wire has to be oriented the same as the black plugs black wire. Look at post #5 for pictures.

Thanks for the help, really appreciate it!

The first thing you said to do restored the autostick function (disconnecting the cable going to the lockout board at the shifter adapter). Plugging it back into the adapter loses the autostick again. I quadruple checked all the shifter connections and they're correct.

So doing a little deducting of my own I disconnected both the cables at the lockout board and connected them together (to bypass the board altogether to check it since it's next in line) and sure enough the autostick function works fine (no paddles still though). That tells me the lockout board is bad, I think. The 2 cables can only plug into the lockout board one way (plus I made sure I matched it to how it's shown in Junior's pictures) so it's connected correctly. The board has to be bad then, right? What would you suggest to do on that? I don't really want to be without the lockout board do I?

The paddles still don't work though and my next step is to check the wiring in the steering wheel. I'm guessing something in there came lose or disconnected.

One other question and this is gonna sound kinda stupid but ... at the end of the steering wheel wiring thread by Junior you're left kinda hangin as to where the paddle wiring (the yellow/blue wire with plug) connects to? It's never shown but I'm guessing it plugs into the main wiring from the clockspring that's just to the right of the center of the steering wheel, there's an open spot that it can plug into. That's where it connects right?

What do you suggest next? And again thanks for all the help!

**Junior** · 07-17-2009, 03:15 PM

Originally Posted by Cheatek

One other question and this is gonna sound kinda stupid but ... at the end of the steering wheel wiring thread by Junior you're left kinda hangin as to where the paddle wiring (the yellow/blue wire with plug) connects to? It's never shown but I'm guessing it plugs into the main wiring from the clockspring that's just to the right of the center of the steering wheel, there's an open spot that it can plug into. That's where it connects right?

Yeah, sorry - you're exactly right. I forget the orientation of it, but there's only one way it'll go. But that's the spot.