Help this working stiff out: What do I need to know before using my SC tuner?

**CoolVanilla** · 03-15-2006, 05:06 AM

It arrived today at my office (NorCal) but I'm in Vegas at a trade show. I've basically been dead to the world the last couple of weeks due to the show (which is going amazingly well by the way

, and haven't really had a chance to keep up with the SC news.

Here is what I've gathered thus far:

1) update it before doing anything else

2) if my build date is around 9/04, I still might have a problem with the tranny shift

2a) if I do have a problem, I can revert back successfully, correct???

What have I missed? Am I in for a treat?

**MagnumFreak** · 03-15-2006, 05:12 AM

Don't use it if your car is an 06.

You may or may not be able to revert. Some people have had to tow their cars to the dealer after using the sc tuner. Their cars wouldn't start.

**Todd RT** · 03-15-2006, 07:52 AM

I would also suggest:

-Make sure all electrical devices are off, even dome lights, etc. Some have even turned off the delayed accessory preference in the EVIC, but I just left the door open. That way when you turn the key off, everything goes off.

-If you want to adjust your tune, it's probably best to go back to stock. Then start over, reprogram. Some HEMI truck owners suggested this with their superchips experience.

-select 'paddle shift hold mode' if you want 1,2,3,4,5,D and a stick shift mode. The 'auto shift mode' won't give some cars the '5'th gear option.

-check out the explanations of 'sport' and 'performance' mode in your instruction manual. They simply change the custom setup for you in a preset way. Some have had problems with the 'sport' mode.

-and YES you ARE in for a TREAT. I love this thing. Good Luck! Have Fun!

This thread will be very useful for new SC owners, as long as it stays on the same subject. HINT HINT EVERYONE!

**Zog** · 03-15-2006, 11:19 AM

Do you have to update your flashpaq via the internet before you tune the car?

**Cam** · 03-15-2006, 11:42 AM

CV, Mattrobertson I think has the same build date as yours. The last post that I saw from him, he had no problems. My build date is 3/05 and works absolutely perfect. Custom tune. 6200, 91 tune, paddle shift hold, TM reduced. Everything is great. No weird problems while in auto mode, paddle works exactly when you want it to. Love it. Different car now. Good luck.

Found it, post 595.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showth...901#post273901

**MattRobertson** · 03-15-2006, 12:57 PM

Yep, that was me, but that was 2 days ago and before I played with it last night. Reflashed it several times trying to get things juuuust right.

First thing you do is register at flashpaq.com. List all of your mods (They may modify your download based on what it is you are saying to them).

Next download their software client and install it. Windows will go ape$hit since SC has not gotten the Pope's blessing on Windows software compatibility. Blow past all of the annoying warnings and install.

You'll need a free USB port on whatever Windows machine you install to. Mine was the latest XP Pro. Once the software has been installed run it. Only now will you be prompted to plug the tuner into your USB port (whatever you do don't put it in beforehand). It will connect to the web and, after you log in, download stuff.

Now you're ready to go out to the garage and plug the thing in. Navigating thru the system is essentially brainless. I carried the instructions out with me the first time but the tuner screen will tell you what to do step by step. I didn't worrry about unplugging everything on the car. Left the dome lights on. But I did unplug the radar detector. Otherwise I didn't screw with anything on the car.

Oh and by the way, the plug is facing straight down just behind the steering wheel, forward near the grey plastic fascia. Don't waste any time pulling stuff apart looking for it like some idgits probably do (*ahem*).

My first tune was like Cam's. I went for 91 performance since thats what I had in the tank. Next, I jumped straight to the custom settings (don't bother with the preset tunes. They just preselect custom options, and since there's only like three of them why not go straight to the heart of the matter...). Reduced torque management, increased shift point revs to 6250, set shift to "paddle stick" (or whatever the last one is called) and increased my tire size to 29".

Then I set speed to 160. Bad idea. You and me have V rated Toyos which are only good to 149. I reset the limiter later in the eve to 145.

Those are all the options there are.

At this setting, performance is markedly different, but not as greatly different as my subsequent 87 octane retunes. More on that in next post. SOTP told me the throttle was a LOT more ... touchy. Responsive is the correct word but touchy works until you get used to it. Shifts are very snappy. Far more so than with the GSM mod. But you won't shift so often cuz you have to get to 6250 revs to do it. In normal driving you shift as normal. Nice and gentle.

I haven't had the opportunity to test the new speed limiter :-)

Oh and it doesn't guzzle gasoline. It pours it out like you have a hole in the tank somewhere (nonetheless, you have to at least try it). I would expect 225-250 miles per tankful, tops. Which is why I went for an 87 tune next ...

**MattRobertson** · 03-15-2006, 01:17 PM

OK so I did 91 octane and was really pleased with the performance, but not so with the gas consumption. As my tank dried up I filled it with 87 octane at Costco and pulled over just outside the station to reprogram. Plugged the thing while sittting in the car and ran thru the procedure. Set to 87 octane and then, with the tranny options, I decided to see what the "paddle kick" option was.

Now, the last option, whose name I forget but lets call it "paddle stick", gets you almost exactly the same performance as stock, except it does what Cam said: Acts like it oughtta and locks you into the gear you ask for. At the right speed you can select "5" too, which is new.

"Paddle Kick" is a whole different ball game. In paddle kick mode the tranny really, really wants to stay in the same gear its currently in. So as you drive you will get the impression that you are stuck in a gear. You're not. The tranny is just using as wide of a range as it decides it can before it shifts. It will also downshift on its own as you slow down. As such this mode keeps the revs up so you always have a responsive ride.

Interestingly, the car is very, very happy to quickly jump into MDS mode. Which makes sense as the revs are up but not because of load. I did not feel as if I was putting more throttle to the car. And it was fun zooming around sounding badass. Lastly, the car will not force a hold on a high-revving gear forever. Leave engine load light and constant for several seconds and it will downshift. Also not sure if MDS is active at all using this mode.

Paddle kick was too different for me. At least for now (You have to manage the throttle much more attentively since the car never coasts, basically). I want to try and see what I can get, mileagewise, out of the car. I already know one extreme and now I am going or the other.

While I was reflashing yesterday (I got results just fine by going from tune to tune... not going back to stock in between) I tried the following (actually bounced around to make sure I could predict what would happen):

87 octane, low revs, paddle kick: Same as described above but not so extreme on the rev holds; naturally.
87 octane, hi revs, paddle stick: Very similar to stock but of course shifts at 6250
87 octane, low revs, paddle stick: Feels just like stock but possibly a bit peppier.

All of the above have torque management in reduced mode. I stuck with the last tune. Once I get a tankful of gas thru it I'll try bumping up the shift points, then starting over in paddle kick mode on the next tank after that.

edit: Seems to me that paddle kick mode is a performance mode that you won't want to run your car on every day. But if you are heading up into the mountains, or doing autocross or something demanding, its exactly what you want.

**Rice Eater** · 03-15-2006, 01:55 PM

Good write up Matt! I want one but am nervous about the LT Header a/f ratios and am waiting to see what happens there.

**MattRobertson** · 03-15-2006, 02:12 PM

Someone in another thread confirmed that tire size does not work via GPS. Thats something I forgot to mention. You can adjust tire size but the setting will always display 27" diameter. I had heard it was just displaying improperly but if it is not working thats disturbing. I need to call SC and ask.

Just updated my tuner today and the revision is dated 3/9/06 and is v1.00. I had heard there was a v1.02 but my guess is they pulled it due to some things I have heard around the forums about it.

**Cam** · 03-15-2006, 02:18 PM

[QUOTE=MattRobertson]Someone in another thread confirmed that tire size does not work via GPS. Thats something I forgot to mention. You can adjust tire size but the setting will always display 27" diameter. I had heard it was just displaying improperly but if it is not working thats disturbing. I need to call SC and ask.
QUOTE]

I changed my tire size to 28.25. Recently a radar based speed indicator reminder thinga mabob unit was set up on a hill that I travel everyday. My posted speed matches perfectly with my EVIC display, so who knows?.

**MattRobertson** · 03-15-2006, 02:21 PM

I just found a thread on this in the Superchips forum and their guy says it works like this by design. It really does change. Just displays a 'default'.

EDIT: Cam's post reminded me that, thanks to something Meister brought up in a related thread I kicked my tire size down to 28.5" to account for tire wear.

**magnuman** · 03-15-2006, 06:50 PM

My build date is 7/04, and after updating (it wouldn't work at all prior) it loaded fine. I've tried both 87 and 91 tunes and all the custom settings. Here's what has happened so far...both good and bad:

87 and 91 tunes--idles fine, off idle to about 2000 RPM surging and bucking. Today it threw a DTC "P0300-Multiple cylinder 1 misfire". The good news is that the b and s doesn't occur all the time. It seems worse at slow speeds. I took a short 50 mile trip in 87 mode, and under light load conditions, such as cruise, it seems smooth. Put a moderate load on and it b and s's. Stomp it (WOT) and it seems to smooth out. Gas mileage (EVIC) for this little jaunt (65 mph on cruise) was an impressive 29.3 mpg. Wonder how good it will get when everything's working properly. SC is aware of the bucking and surging and I just emailed them about the DTC problem. No answer yet. I noticed (with ScanGauge) in 87 mode they add a moderate amount of timing, and in 91 mode they add a lot more timing. Before SC, the highest I had ever seen was 39 degrees. With SC in 87 mode, 42, and in 91 mode, 46.

Torque management appears to work fine.

Paddle Kick won't shift gears until 3000> RPM, and then you have to force them with a right paddle. Around town 3rd gear is as high as you can get (within the speed limit).

Paddle hold seems to work pretty well, but I didn't tinker with it long enough to be certain. Like a kid, I wanted to try every option/mode RIGHT NOW.

I've set everything back to stock for now and will await further updates.

**sorbs@mac.com** · 03-16-2006, 04:40 AM

After registering at SC and getting your software, update the FP and don't forget to list your mods.

Plug it in under the steering wheel (it is closer to your feet than your hands)
Keep your door open
Turn off your radio
Download your stock program
Check and clear any DTCs
Pick your options...there are a few
Adjust your tire size and don't worry that the screen doesn't register it if you go back and look, it changed
Do the "on" "off" shuffle
Wait 30 seconds and enjoy

**MattRobertson** · 03-17-2006, 03:04 PM

I just spent a few minutes on the phone with Ron at Superchips. There seems to be a little confusion out in the world as to exactly what Paddle Kick mode is and what its supposed to do. So I wanted to ask the source.

PK mode is a performance mode. As I noted earlier, the system holds gears for a much wider range than ordinarily found in an auto-trannied car. It will shift up, but if you are giving more than 50% throttle it will hold the current gear until it decides that it *must* upshift. After maintaining steady acceleration for a bit (i.e. highway driving) it will downshift (but in my limited experience, not so much as it would in stock mode).

If you reduce throttle any car will decelerate. However in paddle kick mode it will NOT coast like you would ordinarily see. Instead it will downshift, so if you leave the car alone and just steer the removal of throttle will result in a much faster deceleration than in stock mode.

It all depends on how you are using the car, but paddle kick mode is most likely something you will save for occasions when you know are going to be needing max performance (mountain driving comes to mind immediately, as does driving around town in really bad weather).

Think of it as a manual transmission, but one you don't have to work yourself.

**CoolVanilla** · 03-17-2006, 08:10 PM

Thanks for bringing me up to speed guys. Much appreciated.

Sooooo... is this thing awesome or what? Anyone else think this is the way the Hemi/tranny should have come in the first place?

Paddle kick is a bit much for me and around town driving. Fun though... cant wait to see what's up at the track. Paddle hold... that right there is the shiznit. Again, THATS what I thought I was buying when I bought my "auto stick".

Thanks again all. Here's too a safe Patty's day.