Underdrive pulley installation tool ?

[cadillac bob]

I see that I need a 8512-a tool to install my new underdrive pulley. Short of ordering one online from Miller, has anyone had any luck finding one of these available locally at any auto parts shops?

Also, the thing looks like little more than a long bolt with a nut/bearing and washer on it, so I am curious if its possible to simply fabricate one of them?

Thanks!

[turbohips]

I had to use a 3 jaws clamp type of deal with a long center bolt. Even the special tool was a pain to get locked on correctly. Oh yeah and putting the new one on was no joy. I had to use a sledge hammer and 2x4.

[cadillac bob]

Ouch.. well, I have a balancer puller to get it off, but getting it on was my concern. I've been told that you should not "beat" them on (ala sledge and 2x4) as that can damage the crank bearings.

And from the looks of it, the "special tool" is only used to press the pulley back onto the crank to avoid having to beat it on unless I am mistaken.

[purplepistol]

boil that bugger! it'll slip right on

[PowerWagon896]

I see that I need a 8512-a tool to install my new underdrive pulley. Short of ordering one online from Miller, has anyone had any luck finding one of these available locally at any auto parts shops?

Also, the thing looks like little more than a long bolt with a nut/bearing and washer on it, so I am curious if its possible to simply fabricate one of them?

Thanks!

I took my old crank bolt/washer, removed the washer, stacked several flat washers that are just under the ID of the new UD pully on either side of the original crank bolt washer & ran a nut down on the stacked washers.

The stacked washers on one side center the tool in the UD pulley bore & the ones on the other side provide additional support for the OEM washer as it is used to drive on the UD pulley.

After heating the UD pulley in boiling water, I used the homemade tool & a brass hammer to GENTLY drive the UD pulley on far enough so that the new crank bolt would catch enough threads to pull the pulley the rest of the way home as it was tightened.

[Charger4Life]

I have a hand crafted tool that anyone is welcome to borrow for the shipping costs and the condition to send it right back to me.

It works great for getting the pulley started since the crank bolt won't start until the pulley is on some.

It is a long threaded bolt with washers and a nut. You just screw the bolt into the crank snout and then tighten the nut to pull the pulley on a bit, then use your new crank bolt to pull it on the rest of the way.

Jason

[cadillac bob]

Thanks for all the feedback guys...

And for the record, I should NOT reuse my old crank bolt correct?

[willtransco]

Correct..NEW!

[GasGunR]

Yep, don't reuse the original crank bolt, it is torque to yield, you need a new one everytime it is torqued.

Also, there has been an issue or two with the new bolt being too long and bottoming out in the threaded hole in the crank before the damper is completely tight.

Check the length of the bolt, the threaded portion of the bolt and the thickeness of the damper closely. Some have had to gring a bit off the end of the bolt, or add another washer to prevent the bolt from bottoming out.

I don't know anyone that has had problems with pressing on the new pully with the new crank bolt it's not recommended.

Summit and Jegs both sell Harmonic Damper installation tools if you are interested.

[cadillac bob]

Cool, I called up a local Autozone and they carry damper install tools as well with free rentals, so I might just be in luck and wont have to pay another $60 for a darn piece of threaded rod and a nut

If that doesnt work, I will def take you up on the offer Charger4life, I appreciate it!

[metgo]

I just ground down the washer on the stock bolt so it would be long enough to reach. I got the pulley started with the old bolt then pulled it the rest of the way on with the new bolt.